Winter is a great time to go sightseeing in Delhi. Before winter 2020 begins, I felt I must finish blogging about our winter 2019 sightseeing! I post about Lodi Garden today. I had been to the Lodi Garden earlier but never with a camera. I had to make amends.

Also called Lodhi Garden, Lodi Gardens & Lodhi Gardens, this attraction in the heart of the Indian capital combines heritage & nature effortlessly. I spent a winter afternoon here, sightseeing & soaking in the sun.

Heritage

The Lodi Garden is a complex of gardens & monuments protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. The structures are weather-beaten but standing strong. The main monuments in the complex are Bara Gumbad, Mohamed Shah’s Tomb, Shisha Gumbad, & Tomb of Sikandar Lodi.

Trivia – The monuments were originally not a part of a complex. They were standalone structures in a village called Khairpur. It was only in the early 20^th century that the four monuments were confined together as a park.

Bara Gumbad

The Bara Gumbad is a 1490 construction when the Lodi dynasty ruled over Delhi. Out of all the domes in Delhi, this Gumbad is the earliest one. It is flanked by a Friday mosque on one side & a मेहमान खाना (guesthouse) on the other.

Both structures viewed together give a symmetry to the Bara Gumbad (though they are nonidentical). It was, perhaps, a gateway to the mosque. The Friday Mosque arches are embellished with intricate Arabic inscriptions. It always gives me a sense of awe of the craftsmanship with which such carvings were done in stone.

Mohamed Shah’s Tomb

It is said the Sayyid’s could not build extravagant monuments as their coffers were diminished. Mohamed Shah’s Tomb has an octagonal chamber which signifies a royal tomb. The chamber is surrounded by an arcade. Buttresses reinforce octagon corners.

I did not manage to see Mohamed Shah’s Tomb on this excursion.

Shisha Gumbad

In the absence of an inscription, it is unknown whose tomb this Gumbad is, but historians suggest either an unknown part of the Lodi family or Bahlul Lodi (Lodi dynasty founder & Sultan). The latter seems unlikely to me – why would the founder of the dynasty have an unmarked resting place?

Ventilators form a feature on the outer walls. From outside, the Shisha Gumbad appears to be a two – storied structure; however, it has only one floor. Its magic lies in the ceramic tiles that decorate its exterior. These tiles give the Shisha Gumbad its name (Shisha = glass).

At one point of time, the ceramic tiles lined the entirety of the Shisha Gumbad top, but many have fallen off since. I tried to visualize how it would have looked then. A corbel entrance door frame made me wonder if there is any ‘कारीगर’ today who can create such wonders on stone.

Inside, the ceiling is decorated with Quranic inscriptions & floral designs.

Tomb of Sikandar Lodi

The Lodi Garden is a huge city park, but its enclosed monuments are situated close to each other. Sikandar Lodi’s Tomb is in the middle of a large, outstanding garden & tall boundary walls. The Tomb was built by his son Ibrahim Lodi upon the former’s death.

The octagonal design of the Sikandar Lodi Tomb stands out. The architectural style is Ind-Islamic. Stones strewn around made me think of probable restoration work. My conjecture turned out correct when I spotted a ‘Work in Progress’ sign.

Athpula

As I made my way back to the car park, my last stop of the day was a water body. This lake connected River Yamuna to Sikandar Lodi’s Tomb. The Athpula is placed diagonally across this stream bed. In the Lodi Garden, this bridge is the only structure made by Mughals.

The Athpula gets its name from the eight (‘ath’; ‘pula’ = bridge) pillars that support it. It has a beautiful curving shape.

Other Structures

A walled gateway looked appealing to me from afar. It had beautiful paintings in floral patterns. The gateway opened into a garden abloom with roses. There were a narrow staircase going to a ‘roof’, but I did not find it to be a great idea to ascend those dilapidated, high steps.

Almost at an end of the Lodi Garden, I saw a turret. It seemed it would have served as a watchtower. The two- storey tower had a jharokha – style window on the first level.

Another restored mosque painted bright red! Its enclosure seemed to have disappeared over time. It had a triple arched entrance & a vaulted roof.

An aspect that is bound to stun you is the symmetry in all the structures.

Nature

Lodi Garden is home to many kinds of flora & fauna. I must complement the horticulture department for keeping the gardens in a pristine condition. The lush greenery makes it a magnet for walkers & exercise fans. Walkways have been constructed all around the garden for those wanting to stay fit amidst nature.

Flora

While winter was a good time to walk around, a few trees had an eerie, shorn look. I mused how the garden must appear in monsoon. At the same time, I was privileged to see tulips in full bloom. Rows & rows of tulips! Tulips are naturally adapted to mountainous areas & temperate climates.

I wondered how the Lodi Garden horticulture department manages to grow them in Delhi. In any case, I have effectively cancelled any plans of visiting Rainawari!

Folklore – Tulips have long been associated with the lovers Shirin & Farhad. It is said that where the blood of the two lovers flowed, a single tulip grows every year.

I am not too familiar with the names of plants but derive immense joy from spotting myriad kinds.

The walled gateway had a rose garden in its enclosure. Beds upon beds of roses! I felt I was in the Mughal Gardens! It is a good idea to be like a rose – armed with sharp prickles for anyone who wants to pluck me!

I spotted a Chudail Papdi (Indian Elm/ Jungle Cork Tree). Its bark glows in the dark giving it a ghastly appearance.

A glasshouse had a small water body and plants surrounding it. Outside it, hardworking caretakers were taking a well-deserved break. आह! सर्दी की सुनहरी धूप… Even man’s best friend was enjoying it.

A bamboo grove is dedicated to various bamboo species.

Fauna

Lodi Garden is a particularly good habitat for birds. You can see migratory & resident birds here.

In the tranquil garden, the duck pond was a noisy area. While the ducks paddled quietly, their geese brethren created a ruckus! But I did spot one pensive Domestic Goose!

The highlight of my walking tour was a Red Naped Ibis. It strutted around nonchalantly, unperturbed by human presence. The Ibis used its long beak to dig out insects & worms from the mud. It was a delight to watch it!

Tips For Visiting

1. Lodi Garden is in the heart of New Delhi. You can get any mode of transport to reach here. The nearest metro stations are Jor Bagh & JLN (Violet Line).
2. The Garden is open from sunrise to sunset. It is a haven for morning walkers; so, expect crowds then.
3. The entry is free.
4. Given how horrid New Delhi summer is, it is ideal to visit the Lodi Garden from October to March. Or on any of those monsoon days when the weather becomes salubrious…
5. Nooks & crannies in the Garden are hot-spots for romantic couples. Try to not get scandalized!
6. MTNL Wi-Fi is available.
7. Do not feed the birds!