The Residency

Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 4

Now that you’ve read about my Day OneDay Two & Day Three in Lucknow, you can read a detailed account of my 4th day. And this is the last one. I promise! 🤥

It was time to head back home but only after a heritage walk! As part of the Mahindra Sanatkada Lucknow Festival, a heritage walk of the British Residency was offered. It was called War Chronicles: Residency Heritage Walk.

The Residency

Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula agreed to keep a British resident in Awadh. Accordingly, residential premises were built to accommodate the British officers & their staff. The premises included bungalows, Muslim shrines, thatched houses, and ‘high end’ buildings for higher officials.

During the First War of Indian Independence, the Residency underwent a siege for 87 days. It was a refuge for ~3000 British inhabitants then. British from across Lucknow congregated here & sought shelter. By the time General Campbell stopped the freedom fighters, it was already in ruins.

In fact, the damage is such that today we can’t ascertain the real architecture & purpose of the buildings. The ruins, British cannons & bullet holes on the walls speak of the terrible war. However, a few attractions still stood out for me as I walked through, e.g., Banqueting Hall, Treasure House, Dr. Fayrer’s House, and the main Residency building. The Banquet Hall is a double-storied building with impressive architecture.

The Archeological Survey of India preserves the Residency ruins. You can book an e-ticket to visit. Note that plastic disposables are prohibited to be taken inside.

Rating

Rating: 5 out of 5.

Deep Dive India

The War Chronicles: Residency Heritage Walk was conducted by Samir Kher from Deep Dive India, an organization that conducts immersive travel experiences. It conducts tours that go beyond the typical circuit & a local architecture/ history expert accompanies.

Now, I’ve attended a few heritage walks; the best ones aren’t those that are regurgitated out of history books but those that tie the people of that time, the sociopolitical scenario of that era to the events. Samir did exactly that.

Listening to Samir was like visualizing a movie playing out in front of my eyes. He spoke of the Nawabs of Awadh, the East India Company, the La Martiniere boys, the soldiers, the ladies & children, and others – all of whom had a part to play in the events of 1857.

I already have it in mind to attend another walk with Samir next year to another part of Lucknow. Highly recommended!

Rating

Rating: 5 out of 5.

For archaeology aficionados, Lucknow is a pilgrimage! Ditto for history buffs! Lucknow is inseparable from Indian history. As I boarded my train, I made up my mind to return to Lucknow for a fourth time. Still lots to see & eat!

Accommodation

The frugal me couldn’t find appropriate accommodation in the heart of the city & thus booked Click Hotel in Transport Nagar.

Transport Nagar is a locality on the Lucknow – Kanpur Road. Its USP is its proximity to the Amausi Airport. Other than that, the locality still looked like it was in a development stage. When I turned off the highway to get to the hotel, the roads were unpaved & dusty.

Click Hotel is the budget hotel of the Clarks group. I became apprehensive seeing its (comparatively) remote location but over the next few days, having my own cabs proved this to be not a problem.

When I reached the reception to check in, the receptionist did not have my booking details. I was put off more by this & already in a good mind to switch hotels if she created any fuss. But she received the details from their central booking office & after 10 minutes, I was escorted to my room.

The room was comfortable, decently sized, & lit well. It overlooked the road; so, I would have to keep the curtains drawn. But I was OK with this.

I ordered a plate of Chhole Bhature from a nearby restaurant called Chetram Pindi Chole. I requested Click Hotel to send me crockery & cutlery to eat the food, but it took them some time to get this done. (The next three days were better in terms of service speed.)

My stay was quite uneventful. I would leave early after an average buffet breakfast & return post – dinner. So, I did not spend too much time in the hotel.

However, I guess, for the money I spent, I shouldn’t be expecting more. In fact, I would say, for a budget/ corporate hotel, Click Hotel may be a good choice.

Rating

Rating: 3 out of 5.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

La Martiniere College

Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 2

Now that you’ve read about my Day One in Lucknow, you can read a detailed account of my 2nd day.

Fresh after a restful night, I was ready to explore Lucknow (a third time). The best way to get around Lucknow is by public transport & I’d booked Bharat Taxis & Savaari Cabs for the duration of my stay.

Vidhan Bhavan

My first stop was the Vidhan Bhavan. How cool is it when our temples of democracy are also architecturally brilliant! In the 1920s, Chief Architects Sir Swinon Jacob and Sri Heera Singh built this edifice that presents an imposing, magnificent sight even today.

On both sides of the road, the Houses of the People stand, giving off a majestic aura. The Gothic influence is unmistakable. The Bhavan is crescent – shaped. Its front part is built with carved Chunar stones.

The front of the portico is tri-arched. You can see the State emblem carved on it. The Vidhan Bhavan has several administrative offices in its vicinity, making the area crowded & important. There was such security at the Bhavan that I was unsure if I should click photos!

Vidhan Bhavan, Lucknow

Vehicles are prohibited from stopping in front of the Vidhan Bhavan. So, I got down from my cab at one end & crossed over to the other side on foot. It was while walking that I had the brainwave of breaking my sightseeing for a cup of tea!

Sharma Ji Ki Chai

Sharma Ji Ki Chai was less than a kilometer from the Vidhan Bhavan. As the name suggests, it is a teahouse. It also has light snacks to pair with tea. But do not go expecting a Zen – like ambience of a teahouse; Sharma Ji Ki Chai is chaotic in the most Indian way. Be ready to stand with dozens of other tea drinkers, ready to shout out your order over the din, to share tables etc.

I had a Kulhad Chai & a Bund Maska. After my frugal breakfast, these were deeply satiating!

Christ Church

Christ Church was the first English church to be built in North India and the third in India. It is in the Hazratganj area, just a little over a kilometer from Sharma Ji Ki Chai. Sadly, the gate to the Church premises was locked; the caretaker informed me that it opens only on Sundays.

Christ Church, Lucknow

When the Christ Church was built, it was called St. Mary’s Church. It was part of the British Residency. It was attacked during the First War of Indian Independence like all other British establishments were.

The first people to be buried in the Church cemetery were those that fell during the 1857 War. Standing at the gate, I tried to imagine what the interior would be like. It certainly looked as if it could accommodate 100+ people!

Given that I could only look at the façade, I turned my sights towards the bell tower. It comprises a spire with a cross at the top. This was an eye turner!

Saint Joseph's Cathedral, Lucknow

Saint Joseph’s Cathedral

I then moved on to the St. Joseph’s Cathedral, barely 1.1 kilometers away. Just my luck, or my timing, but even this Cathedral was closed. The police officer, however, let me enter the premises. So, once again, I stood outside, sighed at the architectural brilliance & then bowed my head.

The St. Joseph’s Cathedral dates to the 1800s. Its architecture is outstanding. I particularly liked how its crescent is topped by a column with a cross. The massive Jesus Christ statue is unmissable. When I had had my fill, I moved to the right of the Cathedral to pay respect to Mother Mary’s Grotto.

Shahnajaf Imambara

When I asked my cab driver if he knew the Shahnajaf Imambara, he said he knew the Bada & Chhota Imambaras! This actually was a highlight of my trip that my cabbies usually didn’t know the attraction that I intended to visit.

Anyhow, the Shahnajaf Imambara (3 minutes by cab from the Cathedral) was a beneficiary of loan agreements between the Awadh Nawabs/ Kings & the British Resident. This commitment moved to the British Government & then to the Uttar Pradesh Government.

Facade of Shahnajaf Imambara, Lucknow

The Shahnajaf Imambara has an enormous dome & is built of lakhauri bricks in lime concrete mortar. It has a closeted verandah all around the inner building. It was undergoing renovation when I visited but, luckily, it was still open to visitors.

The Shahnajaf Imambara was empty except for a couple of foreigners. I removed my footwear, covered my head & entered. The Shahnajaf Imambara was established in honor of the Caliph, Hazrat Ali.

The central hall has the graves of the king, Ghazi – ud – din Haider, & his queens. The hall is also decorated with historical mementos. Photography inside is allowed. It is worth it too – chandeliers & crystal glass lampstands!

Chandeliers & Crystal Lamps at Shahnajaf Imambara, Lucknow

Caution – Women are required to cover their heads here.

Sikandar Bagh

My next stop was Sikandar Bagh, 1.4 kms away. It is a hidden, small monument but extremely crucial from a historical standpoint. During the First War of Independence, a battle was fought here in which 100s of British & 2,000 freedom fighters lost their lives.

Uda Devi, a woman warrior, too was shot dead here but not before she killed several British sepoys. The British were baffled by her courage. So much so that the souls of the British still roam in the park, after dark, as per legend.

The entrance is from a side gate. On the left are the ruins while on the right is an imposing gateway. If you love architecture, you will find the gateway a treat for the eyes. You will find the two – fish symbol here, that can be seen in modern crests.

Sikandar Bagh is peaceful, despite the bustling roads outside. The garden is well – maintained. And empty – I spotted about four or five visitors, mostly college sweethearts. It is sad that people’s interest in heritage & history is diminishing. The buildings & stories that we should be cherishing, feeling proud of & taking inspiration from are becoming merely photoshoot locations.

Ruins at Sikandar Bagh, Lucknow

Hazratganj Market

My ultimate halt before I took a lunch break was the iconic Hazratganj Market, 3 minutes away by car. It is a Victorian – style shopping area. The British built it on the lines of the Queen’s Street in London.

Today, however, Hazratganj is famous even outside Lucknow; in fact, it is synonymous with Lucknow. I walked the length of the market from one end to the other. It is a veritable shopping paradise, especially for Chikankari (a traditional embroidery design).

I just window – shopped but watching the pace of activity at Ganj was exciting. But I must admit, the rickshaw pullers were quite annoying; throughout my walk, one or the other of them would accost me that he would take me to the best Chikankari store & to Chowk & to Aminabad (& God knows where) for just INR 10!

Let me just say this about Hazratganj – if you are getting bored, come to Hazratganj; you will find plenty to do! The best way to get around is on foot. Food was another thing Hazratganj boasts of; I had my eyes on Royal Café.

Royal Café

Mutton Degi Masala

After all the sightseeing, I attacked what Lucknow is famous for – the Awadhi cuisine. Tucked in the center of the Hazratganj Market, Royal Café provided an excellent dining experience. Its ambience was fine.

I went with my server’s recommendation & boy, was I delighted! The Mutton Degi Masala was mouthwatering. Portion size, of course, was too much for one. I must compliment the food quality; the chefs’ commitment was evident.

If you are a meat – eater visiting Lucknow, you MUST try the Mutton Degi Masala at Royal Café. The food cost was fair. Its popularity was also apparent with the crowds thronging the restaurant. It has four branches in Lucknow.

Habibullah Estate

Habibullah Estate

Stepping out of Royal Café with a big smile, I strolled to the Habibullah Estate (half a kilometer away) taking in the sights & sounds of the market. It is a restored heritage home which is now the first boutique retail space in Lucknow having outlets like Anokhi & Geetanjali.

Habibullah Estate has colonial architecture & is 300+ years old. I particularly liked the lofty ceilings & arched doorways. It was the ancestral home of Hamida Habibullah, at one time the President of the Avadh Girls Degree College. She was an active participant in social causes & had been a role model for Muslim women.

Heritage structures lend such an appeal to a place… sigh!

Cherry Tree Café

I read a lot about the Cherry Tree Café. I had to check it out, but it turned out to be a major disappointment. The ambience is green & great, but the service could not be worse. I sat there for an hour but was not served.

Cherry Tree Cafe, Lucknow

I asked first for 🍦; they said it’s unavailable! I then asked for a Mud 🍫 Pudding: they said that’s unavailable too. Then another server said 🍦 are available but I’ve to go to the counter & see which ones.

At the counter, there was no ice cream. Still, I didn’t lose my cool & told the lady at the counter that I want a Berry Vanilla Custard & that I’m sitting outside. I told the server too that I’ve ordered. But even after sitting for an hour, nothing came.

So, I finally got up & left. Oonchi dukan, feeki pakwaan!

Calm but disappointing Cherry Tree Cafe

Chhatar Manzil

Onwards to Chhatar Manzil! It was less than two kilometers away. It is located on the banks of River Gomati. Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider (same as Shahnajaf Imambara) laid its foundation. However, while I had heard a lot about this attraction, I am afraid to say it was poorly kept.

Chhatar Manzil was abandoned. Even the garden had not been manicured. It has the Central Drug Research Institute in its premises, yet looks desolate, so much so that I felt a tinge of fear when I was here.

However, none of this took away the beauty of the Chhatar Manzil. It is built in an Indo – Italian style. It has a large umbrella topping on it which gives the monument its name (umbrella = chhatri = Chhatar).

Farhat Baksh Kothi

The Farhat Baksh Kothi is built adjacent to the Chhatar Manzil, within the same premises. It was built by & was the residence of the French Major General Claude Martin. Its original name, thus, was Martin Villa.

Farhat Baksh Kothi, Lucknow

Nawab Asaf – ud – Daula later bought the Villa. Legend has it that he used to be frequently unwell; the British Resident recommended him to stay in the Villa, post which his health improved significantly! It was then that the Nawab named it Farhat Baksh Kothi (‘pleasing mansion’).

The Farhat Baksh Kothi has Gothic architecture. In the olden days, its ground floor touched the river Gomti because of which it always remained pleasant inside! I love how the old structures were built so thoughtfully; not like today where you just fit air conditioners!

Recent excavations have also brought out pillars going deep inside the ground, i.e., a subterranean floor in all probability! TBH, I preferred the Farhat Baksh Kothi much more over the Chhatar Manzil. I could not take my eyes off this beauty, especially its Romanesque roof!

Farhat Baksh Kothi, Lucknow

La Martiniere College

The last stop of the day, to honor Major General Claude Martin, had to be the La Martiniere College. Born in Lyon, he came from a humble background. He realized the value of formal education and set aside a portion of his estate for the founding of schools in Kolkata, Lucknow & Lyon.

The La Martiniere College I visited was the Boys’ College. I took less than 15 minutes to reach here from Farhat Baksh Kothi. Its campus is spread over ~1.6 square kilometers. TBH, I did not expect to be let inside La Martiniere College. It is a private educational institution, not a tourist attraction.

I was, thus, pleasantly surprised when, at gate 4, the security guards enthusiastically answered in the affirmative when I asked for permission to go inside to see the structure. From the gate to the main building, called Constantia, was a nice 10-minute walk with heritage structures on both sides.

The first I encountered was the Mews, i.e., the stable for the horses, used by the pupils to learn horse riding.

The next was The Tomb of Boulone Lise. Lise was the daughter of Nawab Fazal Khan Bahadur, the grandson of the Wazir of Aurangzeb, and was Major General Claude Martin’s companion. The Tomb was purpose built as she chose to be buried on the College grounds.

Tomb of Boulon Lise, Lucknow

The Tomb is a small domed building but with a striking light green color. (If it weren’t a tomb, I would daresay call it fairytale-esque!)

Further ahead was the grave of a Major William Hodson who killed Bahadur Shah Zafar. On my right was the Stobart Hall which is a school to learn the French language.

At last, I stood in front of the Constantia & I’m not exaggerating when I say that my jaw dropped on seeing this imposing, magnificent, 18th century building. It is a fine example of European funerary monuments.

La Martiniere College, Lucknow

I climbed a few steps & stood in front of the Laat, a 40 meters high column. (The Laat itself remains a mystery. A few consider it a lighthouse while others believe it is a marker for the grave of Major General Martin’s horse.)

Turning around, I could see the expanse of Constantia & the other arms of La Martiniere. The architecture is crowned by several statues, the most majestic of them being the lions. The fact that Major General Martin built both Farhat Baksh Kothi & Constantia is very evident from the similarities between both the heritage structures. But the latter is grander!

Major General Martin is buried in a basement mausoleum in the building. I came to know later, during my British Residency heritage walk, that the Boys’ College is the only school in the world that was awarded royal battle honors for its role in the defense of the Residency during the First War of Indian Independence.

La Martiniere College, Lucknow

(The flag has not been displayed since the Indian independence because of the objection it may cause.)

I really wanted to explore the interiors of Constantia, but I was unsure if I would be allowed. It was also getting dark by now. So, with a heavy heart, I exited but promised myself (& the marvelous architecture) that I would be back!

Roastery Coffee House

I ended our day at Roastery Coffee House (7 kilometers away). It is a frequent haunt for me in my hometown; I wanted to experience what another of its outlets looks like. Glad I did! It was, indeed, popular in Lucknow too.

Roastery sources coffee from farms across India. It offers single – estate specialty coffee. I first calmed my sightseeing nerves with a Milk Mocha & leisurely read a novel. The aroma of the distinct kinds of coffees is divine.

I then satiated my appetite with Chicken Nachos which were yummy. The flavors just exploded in my mouth. It was still quite early when I wrapped up from Roastery. I knew I would be hungry later. So, I got myself a Chicken Salami Salad bagged. Later, tucked in my bed in the hotel, I polished it off with great contentment.

Umbrella decor at Roastery Coffee House, Lucknow

Roastery is a family-friendly place. Its ambience is cheerfully delightful, with the yellow lights & the inverted parasols. It is a premium café, but it feels very home – like. I was taken diligent care of by my server, Manish. He ensured he was attentive yet not intrusive. His service made my experience richer.

I hope it continues to maintain its remarkable existence even as it expands into newer cities.

A busy but really satisfying day came to an end!

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

Water body in the foreground reflecting sunset colours, Janeshwar Mishra Park

Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 1

Lucknow always brings a sense of belonging. Tunde kebab & kulfi at Aminabad, walk at Hazratganj, sightseeing at Bada & Chota Imambargahs, crossing Cantt, mutton nihari at Rahim’s, kulfi at Chhappan Bhog, chikankari & zari shopping at Chowk, walk in Ambedkar Park, galauti kebab at Dastarkhwan, & kulfi (again!) at Nishatganj – these were the highlights of our previous two hurls.

So, when P got an invitation to visit Lucknow a third time, she didn’t think twice about it. A solo trip usually lasts for four days & three nights which proved to be quite adequate to see many new sights.

For my third trip to Lucknow, I’ve broken down the blog posts by the days so that it does not get overwhelming to read. And I’ll end with an itinerary for Lucknow.

Thus, here I go with Part 1.

rose, train, swarn shatabdi express, indian railways, delhi, lucknow

Getting There

Leaving from NCR, using the Swarn Shatabdi Express, I made good time & reached Lucknow by afternoon. Interestingly, the Shatabdi started almost empty from the New Delhi Railway Station but became a houseful at Ghaziabad. Maybe Delhi & Gurgaon folks prefer to fly to Lucknow.

A highlight of the Swarn Shatabdi is the station on which it arrives at the Lucknow Junction. It’s Platform 6 on the ‘Chhoti Line’ which has road access. This means that you can call your pickup vehicle right to your bogie! It is a little thing but thrilled me to bits!

The First Evening

Janeshwar Mishra Park

My first evening in Lucknow was a walk in the Janeshwar Mishra Park. I chose to stroll around it in a relaxed manner, taking photographs, watching the Sun set, & retiring early.

Janeshwar Mishra Park

The Park is built in memory of the late politician Janeshwar Mishra. It has been in existence for ~10 years now. It is spread over 350+ acres, making it rightfully the biggest park in Asia.

As I entered the Park after buying a ticket (INR 10), to my left was an Indian Air Force plane & straight ahead was a huge statue of the late Janeshwar Mishra.

Apart from the extensive greenery & kilometers of walking tracks, there are two water bodies within the Janeshwar Mishra Park. The walking tracks have ornate lights flanking them; you could be mistaken for thinking, for a moment, that you are in a European country.

Greenery at the Janeshwar Mishra Park

In early February, spring was already knocking. I had the good fortune of seeing many floral colors. The Janeshwar Mishra Park also has a few fountains & if you get tired of walking, there are several seating facilities.

I also came across a food plaza & an open-air gymnasium. The Janeshwar Mishra Park was huge; I doubt I saw even 25% of it. As the sun set, I hurried towards the main gate but not before I witnessed a spectacular sunset over one of the water bodies.

At times, a little thing like watching a sunset can bring immense happiness. As the evening got colder, my soul became warmer. I thanked my gods for all the good things bestowed on me…

Dusk at Janeshwar Mishra Park

All in all, the Janeshwar Mishra Park is well – designed & quite well – executed.

Rating

Rating: 5 out of 5.

The Mughal’s Dastarkhwan

I then made my way to The Mughal’s Dastarkhwan for an early dinner. Lucknow is full of restaurants called Dastarkhwan. Depending on who you ask, any of them could be the ‘original’ one!

I didn’t bother with the semantics on this occasion & headed to the Dastarkhwan located in Lalbagh.

Galauti Kebab is just what the doctor ordered. I heeded to the server & took a Mughlai Paratha with it but that turned out to be quite heavy. So, for seconds, I opted for a Roomali Roti.

I’m not a big fan of Mughlai cuisine but I really like the Awadhi one.

Rating

Rating: 4.5 out of 5.

It was time to call it a night after the yummy in my tummy.

I’ll be back with Part 2 soon!

Ganga Kinaare…

Ganga, Mango Orchards, Garhmukteshwar

Our earlier posts on Devprayag & Haridwar made us look back at another of our travels along the river Ganges. For this one, we did not have to venture far from our home.

This holy town is rightfully called the closest point from Delhi NCR where you can witness the Ganges. Yes, we are speaking of Garhmukteshwar. It’s easy to reach by road via NE3 & NH 9.

We recommend visiting in winter as the summer months can be incredibly hot. But mornings, evenings & nights do get cold during winters. We have made three trips to this holy town by now – twice in winter & once in monsoon.

TBH, we have not gone sightseeing in Garhmukteshwar. All our visits have been staycations. But even those have been quite eventful. You can ride a bullock cart. You can throw yourself a picnic in the expansive lawns. You can go swimming on warm days. You can play a ton of outdoor games like archery, cricket, dartboards, volleyball, & commando bridge.

So, the next time monotony gets to you, just pack your bags, drag your co-travellers/ pets, & head out to Garhmukteshwar. Once you leave the city limits behind, it’s lovely seeing the mustard fields in bloom during the winter season.

We give below our experience of two resorts in Garhmukteshwar, viz, Baghaan Orchard Retreat & Mango Tree Resort. Both are set amidst mango orchards & have a cottage – style accommodation.

Most importantly, both Baghaan Orchard & Mango Tree are pet – friendly! (Yeesss!!)

Baghaan Orchard Retreat

Baghaan Orchard is ~26 kilometres from NH 9 on the road leading to Siyana. We find its location desirable as it’s situated away from the city hustle bustle.

Baghaan has lawns, a restaurant, a conference hall, a swimming pool, & an activity area. It’s ample parking space. The abundant grounds make for a lovely setup for winter sunbathing.

All age groups can find some or the other activities to keep themselves involved – badminton, croquet, pottery, Burma bridge & table tennis etc.

The restaurant offers multicuisine food. The room service was good too. We celebrated Christmas on our second visit and had a bonfire going in our private lawn. The Retreat dedicated one server to us to cater to all our needs.

The cottages have all facilities like LCD TV, coffee/ tea maker, and attached bathroom & toilet. They also have private sit outs.

Baghaan also seems to be a resort of choice for corporate offsites & for celebrations. During our first visit, we saw a company offsite taking place there. We ourselves were part of a bachelor’s party celebration.

First Visit (2015)

We stayed in an Orchard Cottage for one night. It’s a one – bedroom unit, ideal for a couple/ a family with a young child. We’d reached late at night, but the restaurant still served us dinner.

The next morning, we strolled around the activity area & the orchards.

Second Visit (2020)

We stayed for two nights over the Christmas holiday, along with friends. We stayed in a Dasheri Kothi which was an independent two – bedroom unit in a corner with a private lawn.

The Kothi had a living room and a sit-out, in addition to the lawn. This configuration is ideal for four individuals/ two couples/ two families with young kids.

Our puppies had a marvelous time playing in the private lawn.

On our first night, we had a bonfire going. The next day was spent playing badminton & volleyball and soaking up the sun. for the night, all of us crashed into the living room of the Dasheri Kothi for an evening of discussions & drinks.

Rating

Rating: 4.5 out of 5.

Mango Tree Resort (2022)

Mango Tree is one of those places where the only sound you’ll hear is the rustling of leaves. It’s ~20 kilometres from NH 9 on the road leading to Siyana.

The Resort has lawns, a restaurant, recreation rooms, a conference hall, a play zone, a swimming pool, & ample parking space. If you’re done with soaking in the Sun, you can involve yourself with activities like badminton, cycling, tambola, carrom board, & table tennis.

The restaurant, Daana Pani, offers dishes made with homegrown ingredients. We loved our gastronomical experience here. You can satiate your palate with a mix of Indian, Continental, & other cuisines.

The 31 cottages at this resort are an amalgamation of contemporary design & rustic elements. We’d booked the Premium Cottages which were in a block of six. So, if you’re in a large group, you can book all the six & the block (kind of) becomes exclusively yours.

The Premium Cottage is a one – bedroom unit with a small living area, a private sit – out & an ensuite bathroom.

First Day

On our first day, we were the only guests & thus had the entire resort at our disposal. It was a rainy day, but the staff was kind enough to provide quite a few umbrellas.

Amongst us, there were five pet dogs who had a wonderful time running around in the lawns, sniffing at new scents & muddying themselves in the puddles.

We spent the evening at the Gazebo near the well, partying the night away. The staff members arranged everything for us including lights, fans, mosquito repellents & the like. The service was impeccable.

Second Day

On this day, other guests arrived & Mango Tree Resort got completely occupied. We spent the daytime either lounging by the pool or participating in the many activities available. A bunch of us also went for a bullock cart ride.

At night, it was back to dances, discussions & drinks. Mango Tree dedicated a server to us who ensured we never had to ask twice for anything.

Rating

Rating: 5 out of 5.

Summary

We would place Mango Tree Resort a notch above Baghaan Orchard Retreat because of its more polished look & feel. From the front desk itself to the rooms, every inch spoke of swankiness.

However, both the retreats are perfect for rejuvenation amidst nature!

Pawrents, please note – Pets are prohibited inside the restaurant at both the resorts. However, both also have sit – outs accompanying the restaurants where you can sit with your pet while you pig out on meals.

We would recommend booking an APAI plan in both the resorts as there are no restaurants for quite a few kilometres.

Have you been to either? What’s your experience been like?

Can’t Get Enough…

Chaturbhuj Mandir, Orchha Fort
We travelled across the region of Bundelkhand,
Seeing the remnants of history.
Laxmibai’s Jhansi was the first stop,
Despite her defeat, we only saw her victory.

Orchha beckoned next,
With its fort, rivers, cenotaphs & palaces.
We wandered around the tiny town awestruck,
Till our feet developed calluses.

Orchha told us about Chhatrasaal,
The ruler who resisted the Mughals.
Dhubela had a museum dedicated to him,
His reign, we figured, was fraught with struggles.

Next up was Khajuraho,
The place that needs no introduction,
We spent sunsets & sunrises
Gaping at the magnificent construction.

Panna made for a fitting end,
Where a tigress & her cubs had us stunned,
Our attempt at poetry is pretty lame,
But not so our emotions towards Bundelkhand.

It’s a land of ravines & hills,
Fortified by strongholds & castles,
The Bundelkhand dynasties went to great lengths,
To ward off the Mughal hassles.

We’ve visited Bundelkhand again,
Orchha & Panna asked us to return,
We thought we would be less awestruck,
But there was still so much to see at every turn.

We’ll keep coming back for more,
Our hearts haven’t got enough yet.
The Ken & Betwa appear in our dreams,
Ensuring we don’t forget…
You can listen to this verse on Spotify.
  • Chaturbhuj Mandir, Orchha Fort
  • Maharani Kamlapati Chhatri, dhubela, madhya pradesh
  • sun rays, temple, light, ethereal glow
  • Kalp-Vraksh, Orchhaa
  • River Ken, Panna
  • Sunset, Panna Tiger Reserve
  • Safari, Panna Tiger Reserve
  • Barua Sagar Fort, Uttar Pradesh
  • Jhansi Fort, Uttar Pradesh

What We Like About…

like, india, state, union territory, visit, canva

It may still be a bad time to talk about travel as India has emerged from the second COVID-19 wave only two months’ back. However, there is a post idea that has been on our minds for weeks now & we felt this would be the perfect time to write it down.

So, we have travelled to 21 states & 6 union territories of India. Not all of them for sightseeing but nonetheless… & something or the other has always caught our eye!

Now, even in states, a lot changes between districts. Thus, this is not a generalization but just an account of the things we have experienced & liked about a place.

So, here we go with what we like about…

Andhra Pradesh

P visited Andhra Pradesh as a child. The memories are faint but if we had to choose, it would be the beaches of Vishakhapatnam.

Bihar

What to say about the state that has been home? Yet, Biharis’ zeal to achieve stands out spectacularly.

Chandigarh

The planned sectors & the bungalows… Retiring here would not be a bad idea!

Chhattisgarh

Limited exposure that too in childhood & not from a sightseeing POV

Dadra Nagar Haveli and Daman Diu

We have been to Daman. Loved its laidback vibe. Also, what we coined “poor (wo)man’s Goa”!

Moti Daman Fort

Delhi

Heritage, history, more heritage, more history!

Goa

The lush greenery & the intimidating Arabian Sea during monsoon

Gujarat

The farsan!!!

Sabarmati Riverfront

Haryana

Dhabas & dhaba food!

Himachal Pradesh

The far Himachal of Lahaul, Spiti & Kinnaur… the dangerous Hindustan – Tibet Road… the friendliness of locals…

Jammu & Kashmir

Without a doubt, the valleys. & The dried berries & fruits!

  • kashmir, shikara

Jharkhand

Limited exposure not from a sightseeing POV

Karnataka

The backwaters! (Yes! Unknown compared to the Kerala ones but quite pretty.)

Kerala

How we can go from hills to seas in less than five hours! & The Malabar cuisine.

Between Karnataka & Kerala can be a competition for the best backwaters. We weren’t complaining though…

Ladakh

The sheer grit of the locals! It is a difficult terrain to live in; yet we never found a single person without a smile!

Madhya Pradesh

That fact that it is SO underrated! It has everything – hills, water bodies, geographical formations, indigenous cultures, heritage – & yet it is not the first name that pops up when we speak of ‘Incredible India’.

From the hills of Pachmarhi to the river of Orchha…
Sunset on River Betwa

Maharashtra

The Western Ghat undoubtedly! & Konkani food!!

A pink sky on the Western Ghats

Odisha

P visited Odisha as a child. But she remembers the Chilka Lake vividly…

Puducherry

Favourite beach town in all of India! Great food, colourful buildings, heritage, & max – chill vibe!

Punjab

Mustard fields. Sarson ka saag & makke ki roti. & Harmandir Sahib.

Rajasthan

The fact that when all north India shuts down in winter, this state comes alive! Also, the folk music! & The royalty!

Sikkim

How clean! How safe! How pristine!

Tamil Nadu

The headshake to start with… & Mysore Pak (We know Mysore Park originated in Karnataka, but we have always eaten Mysore Pak in TN ☹)

Telangana

P visited Telangana as a child. She remembers the musical clock at the Salar Jung Museum…

Uttar Pradesh

Home. & Kashi.

Mustard fields, Eternal favorite, uttar pradesh, india

Uttarakhand

The difference between Garhwal & Kumaon. The omnipresence of rhododendrons.

West Bengal

The romanticism. Many movies & series are made with WB as the backdrop. & The outcome is nothing short of beautiful…

There is still a lot to be seen. We hope to cover at least all the states & union territories in our lifetime even if we are unable to see them in entirety. Frankly, one lifetime is inadequate to experience all of Incredible India!

SEEING BENARES IS DIFFERENT FROM EITHER HEARING OR READING ABOUT IT! *

Varanasi in 36 hours

We still prefer referring to Varanasi as Kashi. The word ‘Kashi’ conjures up images of ancient India. After all, didn’t Mark Twain say, Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”?

Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh Ghat
The iconic Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat

We made our way to Varanasi on a January long weekend. We had to cancel our original train booking as it was running late. (Winter can be a little risky time to travel in north India, as flights & trains get disrupted due to fog.) We flew to Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport located in Babatpur, 26 KMS from Varanasi.

The First 12 Hours

The highway from Babatpur to Varanasi was under construction then; so, it took us a while to get to our destination. But the construction has been completed in November 2018.

New Vishwanath Mandir, Banaras Hindu University, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India
Colors of Benares New Vishwanath Mandir

Our first evening in Varanasi was reserved for a boat ride on the River Ganges. It had been a childhood dream for us to take a boat on the Ganges & watch the Ghats. As the Sun set, we made our way from the Assi Ghat to the Dashashwamedh Ghat. The gentle swaying of the boat was accompanied by the boatman’s stories. The Ghats twinkled as we floated alongside. Our hearts could not possibly be fuller.

At sunset every day, the Dashashwamedh Ghat is lit up. Priests line up for a magnificent spectacle wherein the Mother River is worshiped. We felt blessed to be watching the iconic Ganga Aarti. The aarti time makes the Ghats (& the river in front) crowded; so, ensure you get here well in time. It was a heady feeling to be a part of faith at this scale. Watching the aarti from the boat was a surreal experience too!

From the Dashashwamedh Ghat, we moved inland through the maze of lanes that are famous for small temples, eateries, shops & what not. We did not have a set agenda but as our tummies were rumbling, we stopped at Bana Lassi. We tried a Plain Lassi & a Banana Lassi. Both were lip smacking good. The cafe had a bohemian touch with floor seating & painted walls – Bob Marley featured too. The place appeals to foreign tourists. Indian youngsters would feel at home here. We could imagine curling up with a book & trying out all their lassi flavors!

lassi, bana lassi, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
Our lassis at Bana Lassi

We roamed the Varanasi streets. The abundance of color on the roadside shops dazzled us. Look out for handicraft centers having figurines of gods & goddesses. You will be struck with the variety in color, material & size!

It was time to call it a night after some more yummy in our tummy. Varanasi is known to have one of the tastiest street foods. To validate this, we headed to Kashi Chaat Bhandaar. This place is so good that even a non – street food lover like us returned to eat more. A small, easy – to – miss shop with a handful of tables for seating. Most customers prefer to stand outside, on the road, to gobble up the goodies. The Golgappa, Gulab Jamun, Kulfi Falooda, Potato Tikki Chaat, & Samosa Chaat knocked us off. We may return to Varanasi just for this!

It was a cold January night. Chai would help us sleep better. (Well, there doesn’t really have to be a reason to have tea.) At the Assi Ghat, a kiosk called ‘Taste of Banaras‘ offered us delicious kulhad chai.

Happiness, kulhad chai, cold night, taste of benares, assi ghat, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
Happiness is… A kulhad chai on a cold night!

The Next 24 Hours

We had traveled over the Makar Sankranti long weekend. It’s considered auspicious to take a dip in the holy river, but, with the chill, we just bowed our heads. However, we did enjoy watching the kite flying.

We hit the road soon after. The best way to get around Varanasi is on foot or take a rickshaw. Our first stop was the Tulsi Manas Mandir. This is a newer temple. It is built on the site where the Ramayana was written. The gardens around the temple were clean & well-maintained.

tulsi manas mandir, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
Tulsi Manas Mandir. That blue!

The Sankat Mochan Mandir is dedicated to the monkey god, Lord Hanuman. As if on cue, there were a lot of monkeys roaming around. While they mind their own business, it’s a good idea not to engage with them. The temple itself is divine. It has a calming effect. It is, probably, the second popular temple in Varanasi, after the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir. There are lockers made outside the temple where it is mandatory to deposit all your belongings, including cellphones.

The Banaras Hindu University has beauty & history at one place! BHU, of course, is legendary. It was a pilgrimage of sorts to come here. The campus took our breath away with its cleanliness, greenery, & wide roads. This is one of the oldest universities in India, & you can almost feel the history when you stand in the campus.

What we liked about the new Vishwanath Mandir was that it was orderly & did not have the same chaos that other temples do. There were proper queues formed & the darshan was managed by officers. The temple is in the middle of the BHU campus & its own precincts are huge. This is a new temple & maintained quite well. Have a cold coffee with ice cream at its entrance.

new Vishwanath Mandir, shikhar, banaras hindu university, bhu, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
The Sun plays with the new Vishwanath Mandir shikhar.

The Nepali Mandir was on our must-see list. The temple is built as a replica of the Pashupatinath Mandir. It was a hidden gem as even many locals did not know about it! It was, thus, a little difficult to find. (P.S. It is on Lalita Ghat.) But once here, we fell in love with the woodwork.

The Nepali Mandir was constructed by one of the erstwhile Nepali kings. The temple is different from all the other temples in its architectural style, materials used etc. The terrace is a good place to view the river. (There’s an entrance fee for foreigners.)

It is a lifelong dream of many Hindus to visit the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir. Glad we got a chance! The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, one of the principal deities in Hinduism. The Kashi Vishwanath Mandir is in a narrow gully with a heavy police presence.

Many ‘priests’ will approach you for a hassle-free ‘darshan‘. You can opt for them if you want to cut the queue & do not mind parting with some money. Better to fix the amount with them beforehand. Our ‘priest’ made us buy a few offerings, got a locker for us to deposit our stuff & to remove our shoes. He, indeed, took us through some other gate where the line was shorter.

Once inside, he took us to the various parts of the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, made us worship & told us the significance of the temple. Beware: these priests have tie ups with the priests inside. So, they will make you complete a worship & ask you to donate large sums of money. It is OK to say no or give only what you want to give.

It was good to be able to visit the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, but it would have been better if there was more discipline inside. Once out after the darshan, you can feast on ‘malaiyo‘ – a thick, creamy variant of curd, available in the gullies connecting the temple to the street. Yum! After all, every puja must be followed by pet – puja.

Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, malaiyo, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
No photos of the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir but chandan courtesy visit to the temple. Gorging on ‘malaiyo’…

(Disclaimer: The area around the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir has been cleaned of encroachments & been beautified.)

We ended our evening at the Assi Ghat. Cultural events keep happening here. The Ganga Aarti takes place at the Assi Ghat too. But as it is not as famous as the one on the Dashashwamedh Ghat, it is less crowded. We got front row seats to view this engrossing event. Morning after morning, evening after evening, it is only faith that makes this possible.

We had heard since childhood that the Banaras Ghats were not fit to step on. However, we did not encounter any such filth. All the Ghats have steps leading to the river. While hawkers & mendicants still throng these steps, there is no stinking dirt as such.

Banaras Ghats, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
The Banaras Ghats have a life of their own!

We loved Varanasi. Delightfully vibrant! Spiritual & all-encompassing!! We understand now why people choose to spend their last days here. Kashi stole our hearts & left us wanting for more. To (mis) quote Arnold Schwarzenegger, “We’ll be back”.

Accommodation

We wanted to stay near the Ghats but had a difficult time finding a suitable accommodation. Thank goodness we chanced upon Hotel Banaras Haveli! It is located at a walking distance from the Assi Ghat. We could spot the Ghat & the River Ganges from our room.

River Ganges, hotel rooftop, hotel banaras haveli, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
View of the River Ganges from the hotel rooftop

The room was comfortable with all required amenities available. Breakfast was served on the rooftop restaurant which was a great way to start the day on a winter morning. The hotel reception guys also arranged a boat for us for the evening boat ride. They also provided the airport pick & drop. All in all, a good choice!

With the Ghat being next door, & with rooms offering a view of the Ganges, we do recommend this hotel.

* Quote from The Gospel of Sri Ramakrishna

Statue, Madan Mohan Malviya, Banaras Hindu University, BHU, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india
Statue of the Late Madan Mohan Malviya at the Banaras Hindu University

The Journey, The Traveler

surabhi, dd1, bada imambargah, lucknow, india

What is it about travel that entices me so? Be it global or national; by air or rail; long or short; with family or friends; official or personal – every single time, my eyes light up. It is not just about travel; it is also about the thoughts that rush to me when I travel. This dawned on me during my travel for an engagement to the hinterlands of UP.

When I tumbled my way in the Bolero from Jagdishpur to Lucknow at sunset, there was a smile on my lips. ‘Riding into the sunset’ was the theme in my mind. The roads were neither great nor poor; yet, I was at peace. I had seen rural youth learning skills to become employable. Their sincere faces were etched in my mind. When I closed my eyes, I could visualize them toiling under the hot asbestos roof, trying to make themselves productive. I thought of us, the privileged ones, how we still curse our lives…

symmetry, like, bada imambargah, lucknow, uttar pradesh, india
symmetry to my liking

When I traveled from Raebareli to Lucknow, my thoughts wandered to the video I had seen of the poorest of poor. They strove to make a better life. They fought to overcome the odds. In a land where women are still exploited, harassed and oppressed, it was heartening to see groups of women come together to rise from the ashes. Even at a towering 5’8″, I felt small in front of them.

In Amethi, I stayed at a guesthouse which was austere but the hospitality freaked me out. The cook stuffed us with the tastiest food possible. The tehzeeb, I realized, was not limited to Lucknow alone.

Lucknow brought back a sense of belonging, though, frankly, I did not remember a thing from my childhood. Still, it felt like home. Tunde kebab and kulfi at Aminabad, walk at Hazratganj, sightseeing at Bada Imambargah, crossing Cantt, kulfi at Chhappan Bhog, Chikankari shopping at Chowk, Walk in Ambedkar Park, and kulfi (again!) at Nishatganj – spread over 5 days. Courtesy from the most unexpected of quarters. Masha-Allah! Being disappointed with the ‘sandstonification’ of Lucknow. And still being enchanted with how Laxman ka Teela became Teele wali Masjid!

restore, bada imambargah, lucknow, uttar pradesh, india
much needed restoration work going on…

I had thought that the beauty of Bhutan brought out the poetess and thinker in me. But I realize it happens to me every time I travel somewhere.

 

History comes alive, Battles of yore resound

The walls conceal mysteries infinite, I realize as I walk up the stone steps;

The India of today, not very different

Similar battles, similar mysteries, I realize as I walk down the stone steps.