Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 4

Now that you’ve read about my Day One, Day Two & Day Three in Lucknow, you can read a detailed account of my 4^th day. And this is the last one. I promise! 🤥

It was time to head back home but only after a heritage walk! As part of the Mahindra Sanatkada Lucknow Festival, a heritage walk of the British Residency was offered. It was called War Chronicles: Residency Heritage Walk.

The Residency

Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula agreed to keep a British resident in Awadh. Accordingly, residential premises were built to accommodate the British officers & their staff. The premises included bungalows, Muslim shrines, thatched houses, and ‘high end’ buildings for higher officials.

During the First War of Indian Independence, the Residency underwent a siege for 87 days. It was a refuge for ~3000 British inhabitants then. British from across Lucknow congregated here & sought shelter. By the time General Campbell stopped the freedom fighters, it was already in ruins.

In fact, the damage is such that today we can’t ascertain the real architecture & purpose of the buildings. The ruins, British cannons & bullet holes on the walls speak of the terrible war. However, a few attractions still stood out for me as I walked through, e.g., Banqueting Hall, Treasure House, Dr. Fayrer’s House, and the main Residency building. The Banquet Hall is a double-storied building with impressive architecture.

The Archeological Survey of India preserves the Residency ruins. You can book an e-ticket to visit. Note that plastic disposables are prohibited to be taken inside.

Rating

Deep Dive India

The War Chronicles: Residency Heritage Walk was conducted by Samir Kher from Deep Dive India, an organization that conducts immersive travel experiences. It conducts tours that go beyond the typical circuit & a local architecture/ history expert accompanies.

Now, I’ve attended a few heritage walks; the best ones aren’t those that are regurgitated out of history books but those that tie the people of that time, the sociopolitical scenario of that era to the events. Samir did exactly that.

Listening to Samir was like visualizing a movie playing out in front of my eyes. He spoke of the Nawabs of Awadh, the East India Company, the La Martiniere boys, the soldiers, the ladies & children, and others – all of whom had a part to play in the events of 1857.

I already have it in mind to attend another walk with Samir next year to another part of Lucknow. Highly recommended!

Rating

For archaeology aficionados, Lucknow is a pilgrimage! Ditto for history buffs! Lucknow is inseparable from Indian history. As I boarded my train, I made up my mind to return to Lucknow for a fourth time. Still lots to see & eat!

Accommodation

The frugal me couldn’t find appropriate accommodation in the heart of the city & thus booked Click Hotel in Transport Nagar.

Transport Nagar is a locality on the Lucknow – Kanpur Road. Its USP is its proximity to the Amausi Airport. Other than that, the locality still looked like it was in a development stage. When I turned off the highway to get to the hotel, the roads were unpaved & dusty.

Click Hotel is the budget hotel of the Clarks group. I became apprehensive seeing its (comparatively) remote location but over the next few days, having my own cabs proved this to be not a problem.

When I reached the reception to check in, the receptionist did not have my booking details. I was put off more by this & already in a good mind to switch hotels if she created any fuss. But she received the details from their central booking office & after 10 minutes, I was escorted to my room.

The room was comfortable, decently sized, & lit well. It overlooked the road; so, I would have to keep the curtains drawn. But I was OK with this.

I ordered a plate of Chhole Bhature from a nearby restaurant called Chetram Pindi Chole. I requested Click Hotel to send me crockery & cutlery to eat the food, but it took them some time to get this done. (The next three days were better in terms of service speed.)

My stay was quite uneventful. I would leave early after an average buffet breakfast & return post – dinner. So, I did not spend too much time in the hotel.

However, I guess, for the money I spent, I shouldn’t be expecting more. In fact, I would say, for a budget/ corporate hotel, Click Hotel may be a good choice.

Rating

Posted on 11/23/202205/04/2023 by An Ordinary Girl

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 2

Now that you’ve read about my Day One in Lucknow, you can read a detailed account of my 2^nd day.

Fresh after a restful night, I was ready to explore Lucknow (a third time). The best way to get around Lucknow is by public transport & I’d booked Bharat Taxis & Savaari Cabs for the duration of my stay.

Vidhan Bhavan

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

My first stop was the Vidhan Bhavan. How cool is it when our temples of democracy are also architecturally brilliant! In the 1920s, Chief Architects Sir Swinon Jacob and Sri Heera Singh built this edifice that presents an imposing, magnificent sight even today.

On both sides of the road, the Houses of the People stand, giving off a majestic aura. The Gothic influence is unmistakable. The Bhavan is crescent – shaped. Its front part is built with carved Chunar stones.

The front of the portico is tri-arched. You can see the State emblem carved on it. The Vidhan Bhavan has several administrative offices in its vicinity, making the area crowded & important. There was such security at the Bhavan that I was unsure if I should click photos!

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Vehicles are prohibited from stopping in front of the Vidhan Bhavan. So, I got down from my cab at one end & crossed over to the other side on foot. It was while walking that I had the brainwave of breaking my sightseeing for a cup of tea!

Sharma Ji Ki Chai

Sharma Ji Ki Chai was less than a kilometer from the Vidhan Bhavan. As the name suggests, it is a teahouse. It also has light snacks to pair with tea. But do not go expecting a Zen – like ambience of a teahouse; Sharma Ji Ki Chai is chaotic in the most Indian way. Be ready to stand with dozens of other tea drinkers, ready to shout out your order over the din, to share tables etc.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

I had a Kulhad Chai & a Bund Maska. After my frugal breakfast, these were deeply satiating!

Christ Church

Christ Church was the first English church to be built in North India and the third in India. It is in the Hazratganj area, just a little over a kilometer from Sharma Ji Ki Chai. Sadly, the gate to the Church premises was locked; the caretaker informed me that it opens only on Sundays.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

When the Christ Church was built, it was called St. Mary’s Church. It was part of the British Residency. It was attacked during the First War of Indian Independence like all other British establishments were.

The first people to be buried in the Church cemetery were those that fell during the 1857 War. Standing at the gate, I tried to imagine what the interior would be like. It certainly looked as if it could accommodate 100+ people!

Given that I could only look at the façade, I turned my sights towards the bell tower. It comprises a spire with a cross at the top. This was an eye turner!

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Saint Joseph’s Cathedral

I then moved on to the St. Joseph’s Cathedral, barely 1.1 kilometers away. Just my luck, or my timing, but even this Cathedral was closed. The police officer, however, let me enter the premises. So, once again, I stood outside, sighed at the architectural brilliance & then bowed my head.

The St. Joseph’s Cathedral dates to the 1800s. Its architecture is outstanding. I particularly liked how its crescent is topped by a column with a cross. The massive Jesus Christ statue is unmissable. When I had had my fill, I moved to the right of the Cathedral to pay respect to Mother Mary’s Grotto.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Shahnajaf Imambara

When I asked my cab driver if he knew the Shahnajaf Imambara, he said he knew the Bada & Chhota Imambaras! This actually was a highlight of my trip that my cabbies usually didn’t know the attraction that I intended to visit.

Anyhow, the Shahnajaf Imambara (3 minutes by cab from the Cathedral) was a beneficiary of loan agreements between the Awadh Nawabs/ Kings & the British Resident. This commitment moved to the British Government & then to the Uttar Pradesh Government.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

The Shahnajaf Imambara has an enormous dome & is built of lakhauri bricks in lime concrete mortar. It has a closeted verandah all around the inner building. It was undergoing renovation when I visited but, luckily, it was still open to visitors.

The Shahnajaf Imambara was empty except for a couple of foreigners. I removed my footwear, covered my head & entered. The Shahnajaf Imambara was established in honor of the Caliph, Hazrat Ali.

The central hall has the graves of the king, Ghazi – ud – din Haider, & his queens. The hall is also decorated with historical mementos. Photography inside is allowed. It is worth it too – chandeliers & crystal glass lampstands!

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Chandeliers & Crystal Lamps at Shahnajaf Imambara, Lucknow

Caution – Women are required to cover their heads here.

Sikandar Bagh

My next stop was Sikandar Bagh, 1.4 kms away. It is a hidden, small monument but extremely crucial from a historical standpoint. During the First War of Independence, a battle was fought here in which 100s of British & 2,000 freedom fighters lost their lives.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Uda Devi, a woman warrior, too was shot dead here but not before she killed several British sepoys. The British were baffled by her courage. So much so that the souls of the British still roam in the park, after dark, as per legend.

The entrance is from a side gate. On the left are the ruins while on the right is an imposing gateway. If you love architecture, you will find the gateway a treat for the eyes. You will find the two – fish symbol here, that can be seen in modern crests.

Sikandar Bagh is peaceful, despite the bustling roads outside. The garden is well – maintained. And empty – I spotted about four or five visitors, mostly college sweethearts. It is sad that people’s interest in heritage & history is diminishing. The buildings & stories that we should be cherishing, feeling proud of & taking inspiration from are becoming merely photoshoot locations.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Hazratganj Market

My ultimate halt before I took a lunch break was the iconic Hazratganj Market, 3 minutes away by car. It is a Victorian – style shopping area. The British built it on the lines of the Queen’s Street in London.

Today, however, Hazratganj is famous even outside Lucknow; in fact, it is synonymous with Lucknow. I walked the length of the market from one end to the other. It is a veritable shopping paradise, especially for Chikankari (a traditional embroidery design).

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

I just window – shopped but watching the pace of activity at Ganj was exciting. But I must admit, the rickshaw pullers were quite annoying; throughout my walk, one or the other of them would accost me that he would take me to the best Chikankari store & to Chowk & to Aminabad (& God knows where) for just INR 10!

Let me just say this about Hazratganj – if you are getting bored, come to Hazratganj; you will find plenty to do! The best way to get around is on foot. Food was another thing Hazratganj boasts of; I had my eyes on Royal Café.

Royal Café

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

After all the sightseeing, I attacked what Lucknow is famous for – the Awadhi cuisine. Tucked in the center of the Hazratganj Market, Royal Café provided an excellent dining experience. Its ambience was fine.

I went with my server’s recommendation & boy, was I delighted! The Mutton Degi Masala was mouthwatering. Portion size, of course, was too much for one. I must compliment the food quality; the chefs’ commitment was evident.

If you are a meat – eater visiting Lucknow, you MUST try the Mutton Degi Masala at Royal Café. The food cost was fair. Its popularity was also apparent with the crowds thronging the restaurant. It has four branches in Lucknow.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Habibullah Estate

Stepping out of Royal Café with a big smile, I strolled to the Habibullah Estate (half a kilometer away) taking in the sights & sounds of the market. It is a restored heritage home which is now the first boutique retail space in Lucknow having outlets like Anokhi & Geetanjali.

Habibullah Estate has colonial architecture & is 300+ years old. I particularly liked the lofty ceilings & arched doorways. It was the ancestral home of Hamida Habibullah, at one time the President of the Avadh Girls Degree College. She was an active participant in social causes & had been a role model for Muslim women.

Heritage structures lend such an appeal to a place… sigh!

Cherry Tree Café

I read a lot about the Cherry Tree Café. I had to check it out, but it turned out to be a major disappointment. The ambience is green & great, but the service could not be worse. I sat there for an hour but was not served.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

I asked first for 🍦; they said it’s unavailable! I then asked for a Mud 🍫 Pudding: they said that’s unavailable too. Then another server said 🍦 are available but I’ve to go to the counter & see which ones.

At the counter, there was no ice cream. Still, I didn’t lose my cool & told the lady at the counter that I want a Berry Vanilla Custard & that I’m sitting outside. I told the server too that I’ve ordered. But even after sitting for an hour, nothing came.

So, I finally got up & left. Oonchi dukan, feeki pakwaan!

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Chhatar Manzil

Onwards to Chhatar Manzil! It was less than two kilometers away. It is located on the banks of River Gomati. Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider (same as Shahnajaf Imambara) laid its foundation. However, while I had heard a lot about this attraction, I am afraid to say it was poorly kept.

Chhatar Manzil was abandoned. Even the garden had not been manicured. It has the Central Drug Research Institute in its premises, yet looks desolate, so much so that I felt a tinge of fear when I was here.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

However, none of this took away the beauty of the Chhatar Manzil. It is built in an Indo – Italian style. It has a large umbrella topping on it which gives the monument its name (umbrella = chhatri = Chhatar).

Farhat Baksh Kothi

The Farhat Baksh Kothi is built adjacent to the Chhatar Manzil, within the same premises. It was built by & was the residence of the French Major General Claude Martin. Its original name, thus, was Martin Villa.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Nawab Asaf – ud – Daula later bought the Villa. Legend has it that he used to be frequently unwell; the British Resident recommended him to stay in the Villa, post which his health improved significantly! It was then that the Nawab named it Farhat Baksh Kothi (‘pleasing mansion’).

The Farhat Baksh Kothi has Gothic architecture. In the olden days, its ground floor touched the river Gomti because of which it always remained pleasant inside! I love how the old structures were built so thoughtfully; not like today where you just fit air conditioners!

Recent excavations have also brought out pillars going deep inside the ground, i.e., a subterranean floor in all probability! TBH, I preferred the Farhat Baksh Kothi much more over the Chhatar Manzil. I could not take my eyes off this beauty, especially its Romanesque roof!

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

La Martiniere College

The last stop of the day, to honor Major General Claude Martin, had to be the La Martiniere College. Born in Lyon, he came from a humble background. He realized the value of formal education and set aside a portion of his estate for the founding of schools in Kolkata, Lucknow & Lyon.

The La Martiniere College I visited was the Boys’ College. I took less than 15 minutes to reach here from Farhat Baksh Kothi. Its campus is spread over ~1.6 square kilometers. TBH, I did not expect to be let inside La Martiniere College. It is a private educational institution, not a tourist attraction.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

I was, thus, pleasantly surprised when, at gate 4, the security guards enthusiastically answered in the affirmative when I asked for permission to go inside to see the structure. From the gate to the main building, called Constantia, was a nice 10-minute walk with heritage structures on both sides.

The first I encountered was the Mews, i.e., the stable for the horses, used by the pupils to learn horse riding.

The next was The Tomb of Boulone Lise. Lise was the daughter of Nawab Fazal Khan Bahadur, the grandson of the Wazir of Aurangzeb, and was Major General Claude Martin’s companion. The Tomb was purpose built as she chose to be buried on the College grounds.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

The Tomb is a small domed building but with a striking light green color. (If it weren’t a tomb, I would daresay call it fairytale-esque!)

Further ahead was the grave of a Major William Hodson who killed Bahadur Shah Zafar. On my right was the Stobart Hall which is a school to learn the French language.

At last, I stood in front of the Constantia & I’m not exaggerating when I say that my jaw dropped on seeing this imposing, magnificent, 18^th century building. It is a fine example of European funerary monuments.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

I climbed a few steps & stood in front of the Laat, a 40 meters high column. (The Laat itself remains a mystery. A few consider it a lighthouse while others believe it is a marker for the grave of Major General Martin’s horse.)

Turning around, I could see the expanse of Constantia & the other arms of La Martiniere. The architecture is crowned by several statues, the most majestic of them being the lions. The fact that Major General Martin built both Farhat Baksh Kothi & Constantia is very evident from the similarities between both the heritage structures. But the latter is grander!

Major General Martin is buried in a basement mausoleum in the building. I came to know later, during my British Residency heritage walk, that the Boys’ College is the only school in the world that was awarded royal battle honors for its role in the defense of the Residency during the First War of Indian Independence.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

(The flag has not been displayed since the Indian independence because of the objection it may cause.)

I really wanted to explore the interiors of Constantia, but I was unsure if I would be allowed. It was also getting dark by now. So, with a heavy heart, I exited but promised myself (& the marvelous architecture) that I would be back!

Roastery Coffee House

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

I ended our day at Roastery Coffee House (7 kilometers away). It is a frequent haunt for me in my hometown; I wanted to experience what another of its outlets looks like. Glad I did! It was, indeed, popular in Lucknow too.

Roastery sources coffee from farms across India. It offers single – estate specialty coffee. I first calmed my sightseeing nerves with a Milk Mocha & leisurely read a novel. The aroma of the distinct kinds of coffees is divine.

I then satiated my appetite with Chicken Nachos which were yummy. The flavors just exploded in my mouth. It was still quite early when I wrapped up from Roastery. I knew I would be hungry later. So, I got myself a Chicken Salami Salad bagged. Later, tucked in my bed in the hotel, I polished it off with great contentment.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – II

Umbrella decor at Roastery Coffee House, Lucknow

Roastery is a family-friendly place. Its ambience is cheerfully delightful, with the yellow lights & the inverted parasols. It is a premium café, but it feels very home – like. I was taken diligent care of by my server, Manish. He ensured he was attentive yet not intrusive. His service made my experience richer.

I hope it continues to maintain its remarkable existence even as it expands into newer cities.

A busy but really satisfying day came to an end!

Posted on 11/16/202204/18/2023 by An Ordinary Girl

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

Water body in the foreground reflecting sunset colours, Janeshwar Mishra Park

Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 1

Lucknow always brings a sense of belonging. Tunde kebab & kulfi at Aminabad, walk at Hazratganj, sightseeing at Bada & Chota Imambargahs, crossing Cantt, mutton nihari at Rahim’s, kulfi at Chhappan Bhog, chikankari & zari shopping at Chowk, walk in Ambedkar Park, galauti kebab at Dastarkhwan, & kulfi (again!) at Nishatganj – these were the highlights of our previous two hurls.

Muskuraiye Aap Lucknow Mein Hai

The Journey, The Traveller

So, when P got an invitation to visit Lucknow a third time, she didn’t think twice about it. A solo trip usually lasts for four days & three nights which proved to be quite adequate to see many new sights.

For my third trip to Lucknow, I’ve broken down the blog posts by the days so that it does not get overwhelming to read. And I’ll end with an itinerary for Lucknow.

Thus, here I go with Part 1.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

rose, train, swarn shatabdi express, indian railways, delhi, lucknow

Getting There

Leaving from NCR, using the Swarn Shatabdi Express, I made good time & reached Lucknow by afternoon. Interestingly, the Shatabdi started almost empty from the New Delhi Railway Station but became a houseful at Ghaziabad. Maybe Delhi & Gurgaon folks prefer to fly to Lucknow.

A highlight of the Swarn Shatabdi is the station on which it arrives at the Lucknow Junction. It’s Platform 6 on the ‘Chhoti Line’ which has road access. This means that you can call your pickup vehicle right to your bogie! It is a little thing but thrilled me to bits!

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

The First Evening

Janeshwar Mishra Park

My first evening in Lucknow was a walk in the Janeshwar Mishra Park. I chose to stroll around it in a relaxed manner, taking photographs, watching the Sun set, & retiring early.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

The Park is built in memory of the late politician Janeshwar Mishra. It has been in existence for ~10 years now. It is spread over 350+ acres, making it rightfully the biggest park in Asia.

As I entered the Park after buying a ticket (INR 10), to my left was an Indian Air Force plane & straight ahead was a huge statue of the late Janeshwar Mishra.

Apart from the extensive greenery & kilometers of walking tracks, there are two water bodies within the Janeshwar Mishra Park. The walking tracks have ornate lights flanking them; you could be mistaken for thinking, for a moment, that you are in a European country.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

In early February, spring was already knocking. I had the good fortune of seeing many floral colors. The Janeshwar Mishra Park also has a few fountains & if you get tired of walking, there are several seating facilities.

I also came across a food plaza & an open-air gymnasium. The Janeshwar Mishra Park was huge; I doubt I saw even 25% of it. As the sun set, I hurried towards the main gate but not before I witnessed a spectacular sunset over one of the water bodies.

At times, a little thing like watching a sunset can bring immense happiness. As the evening got colder, my soul became warmer. I thanked my gods for all the good things bestowed on me…

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

All in all, the Janeshwar Mishra Park is well – designed & quite well – executed.

Rating

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

The Mughal’s Dastarkhwan

I then made my way to The Mughal’s Dastarkhwan for an early dinner. Lucknow is full of restaurants called Dastarkhwan. Depending on who you ask, any of them could be the ‘original’ one!

I didn’t bother with the semantics on this occasion & headed to the Dastarkhwan located in Lalbagh.

Aap Lucknow Mein? – I

Galauti Kebab is just what the doctor ordered. I heeded to the server & took a Mughlai Paratha with it but that turned out to be quite heavy. So, for seconds, I opted for a Roomali Roti.

I’m not a big fan of Mughlai cuisine but I really like the Awadhi one.

Rating

It was time to call it a night after the yummy in my tummy.

I’ll be back with Part 2 soon!

Posted on 10/26/202212/19/2022 by An Ordinary Girl

Ganga Kinaare…

Our earlier posts on Devprayag & Haridwar made us look back at another of our travels along the river Ganges. For this one, we did not have to venture far from our home.

This holy town is rightfully called the closest point from Delhi NCR where you can witness the Ganges. Yes, we are speaking of Garhmukteshwar. It’s easy to reach by road via NE3 & NH 9.

We recommend visiting in winter as the summer months can be incredibly hot. But mornings, evenings & nights do get cold during winters. We have made three trips to this holy town by now – twice in winter & once in monsoon.

TBH, we have not gone sightseeing in Garhmukteshwar. All our visits have been staycations. But even those have been quite eventful. You can ride a bullock cart. You can throw yourself a picnic in the expansive lawns. You can go swimming on warm days. You can play a ton of outdoor games like archery, cricket, dartboards, volleyball, & commando bridge.

So, the next time monotony gets to you, just pack your bags, drag your co-travellers/ pets, & head out to Garhmukteshwar. Once you leave the city limits behind, it’s lovely seeing the mustard fields in bloom during the winter season.

We give below our experience of two resorts in Garhmukteshwar, viz, Baghaan Orchard Retreat & Mango Tree Resort. Both are set amidst mango orchards & have a cottage – style accommodation.

Most importantly, both Baghaan Orchard & Mango Tree are pet – friendly! (Yeesss!!)

Baghaan Orchard Retreat

Baghaan Orchard is ~26 kilometres from NH 9 on the road leading to Siyana. We find its location desirable as it’s situated away from the city hustle bustle.

Baghaan

Baghaan has lawns, a restaurant, a conference hall, a swimming pool, & an activity area. It’s ample parking space. The abundant grounds make for a lovely setup for winter sunbathing.

All age groups can find some or the other activities to keep themselves involved – badminton, croquet, pottery, Burma bridge & table tennis etc.

The restaurant offers multicuisine food. The room service was good too. We celebrated Christmas on our second visit and had a bonfire going in our private lawn. The Retreat dedicated one server to us to cater to all our needs.

The cottages have all facilities like LCD TV, coffee/ tea maker, and attached bathroom & toilet. They also have private sit outs.

Baghaan also seems to be a resort of choice for corporate offsites & for celebrations. During our first visit, we saw a company offsite taking place there. We ourselves were part of a bachelor’s party celebration.

First Visit (2015)

We stayed in an Orchard Cottage for one night. It’s a one – bedroom unit, ideal for a couple/ a family with a young child. We’d reached late at night, but the restaurant still served us dinner.

The next morning, we strolled around the activity area & the orchards.

Second Visit (2020)

We stayed for two nights over the Christmas holiday, along with friends. We stayed in a Dasheri Kothi which was an independent two – bedroom unit in a corner with a private lawn.

The Kothi had a living room and a sit-out, in addition to the lawn. This configuration is ideal for four individuals/ two couples/ two families with young kids.

Our puppies had a marvelous time playing in the private lawn.

On our first night, we had a bonfire going. The next day was spent playing badminton & volleyball and soaking up the sun. for the night, all of us crashed into the living room of the Dasheri Kothi for an evening of discussions & drinks.

Rating

Mango Tree Resort (2022)

Mango Tree is one of those places where the only sound you’ll hear is the rustling of leaves. It’s ~20 kilometres from NH 9 on the road leading to Siyana.

The Resort has lawns, a restaurant, recreation rooms, a conference hall, a play zone, a swimming pool, & ample parking space. If you’re done with soaking in the Sun, you can involve yourself with activities like badminton, cycling, tambola, carrom board, & table tennis.

Ranapur

The restaurant, Daana Pani, offers dishes made with homegrown ingredients. We loved our gastronomical experience here. You can satiate your palate with a mix of Indian, Continental, & other cuisines.

The 31 cottages at this resort are an amalgamation of contemporary design & rustic elements. We’d booked the Premium Cottages which were in a block of six. So, if you’re in a large group, you can book all the six & the block (kind of) becomes exclusively yours.

The Premium Cottage is a one – bedroom unit with a small living area, a private sit – out & an ensuite bathroom.

First Day

On our first day, we were the only guests & thus had the entire resort at our disposal. It was a rainy day, but the staff was kind enough to provide quite a few umbrellas.

Amongst us, there were five pet dogs who had a wonderful time running around in the lawns, sniffing at new scents & muddying themselves in the puddles.

We spent the evening at the Gazebo near the well, partying the night away. The staff members arranged everything for us including lights, fans, mosquito repellents & the like. The service was impeccable.

Second Day

On this day, other guests arrived & Mango Tree Resort got completely occupied. We spent the daytime either lounging by the pool or participating in the many activities available. A bunch of us also went for a bullock cart ride.

At night, it was back to dances, discussions & drinks. Mango Tree dedicated a server to us who ensured we never had to ask twice for anything.

Rating

Summary

We would place Mango Tree Resort a notch above Baghaan Orchard Retreat because of its more polished look & feel. From the front desk itself to the rooms, every inch spoke of swankiness.

However, both the retreats are perfect for rejuvenation amidst nature!

Pawrents, please note – Pets are prohibited inside the restaurant at both the resorts. However, both also have sit – outs accompanying the restaurants where you can sit with your pet while you pig out on meals.

We would recommend booking an APAI plan in both the resorts as there are no restaurants for quite a few kilometres.

Have you been to either? What’s your experience been like?

Posted on 10/07/202210/07/2022 by An Ordinary Girl

Devprayag – The Birthplace of The Ganga

In 2020 September, we decided to bring Fluffy home. As she was due to come to us by the third week of October, we knew we had to have a last hurrah because once she came home, we would be confined within our four walls till her vaccinations were complete.

We also had more than a long weekend with us. One of our friends had recently visited Devprayag & we thought of giving one of these Panch Prayag’s a shot.

About Devprayag

Devprayag is the town where the holy River Ganges takes shape. The rivers Alaknanda & Bhagirathi merge at this holy town to form the Ganga which then flows through the northern plains of India & end in the Bay of Bengal.

Devprayag is one of the five sacred confluences (called Panch Prayag) of the Alaknanda. Apart from the Sangam (confluence), pilgrims & tourists alike throng to the ancient Raghunathji Mandir.

For pilgrims, Devprayag is replete with holy spots – Baitalshila, Varahishila, Bhairava Shrine, Bhushandi Shrine, Durga Shrine, Pushyamal Tirth, Varah Tirth, Vishveshvara Shrine & more.

Day One

We took the Noida – Modinagar – Bijnor – Najibabad – Lansdowne – Devprayag route as we had information about the main route (NH 334 & NH 7) being constructed. Unfortunately, this alternate route had bad patches too.

When we were crossing Bijnor, we noticed a billboard at the Barrage advertising a Dolphin Jalaj Safari. In 2020 itself, the National Mission for Clean Ganga had launched Ganga Dolphin safaris at six destinations in India to preserve the river ecology & to conserve the Dolphins.

On this Dolphin Safari, tourists can also spot Gharials. Bijnor comes under the Hastinapur Wildlife Sanctuary where, as of 2020, there were thirty-six dolphins. Now, this wildlife sanctuary is something we would like to return to someday.

Trivia

Gangetic Dolphins are blind. They catch their prey with the help of ultrasonic sound waves.

We took just one break on this journey – at Kanha Farms, Bijnor – for lunch.

Kanha Farms

Kanha Farms (also called Hotel Kanha & Resort) is located on NH119. It is a hotel, restaurant & banquet hall rolled into one. There was ample space to park our vehicle. The restaurant was spacious too.

We pigged out on parathas on both our stoppages. Unfortunately, their tea was too sweet to our liking. Service was good. The washrooms were decently clean & usable.

Despite this single halt, it was late evening by the time we reached Devprayag. Well, technically not Devprayag, but Vyas Ghat, a village seventeen kms before Devprayag, where our accommodation – Banyan by The Ganges (BBTG) – was located.

Day Two

There are hops when we are out & about. And then there are hops where we just relax. Our Devprayag holiday was of the latter kind. Well, at least this day was!

This was a time when we did pranayama regularly, thanks to the COVID scare. So, our day began with a round of pranayama overlooking the river Ganges, under the banyan tree. The serene morning made our practice even better!

After breakfast, N went off for a kayaking lesson. BBTG has trained guides who create a welcoming environment for all participants. Deepak, the guide, introduced N to navigation & safety on the river. BBTG is right on the banks of the river; so, one does not have to go far either.

In the evening, we drove to Devprayag & back.

Day Three

If you are not someone who is into thrill, BBTG has easy activities too.

Waterfall

Deepak, a staff member took us to a nearby pristine waterfall. This is hidden; only locals & the hotel staff know about. Guests staying at BBTG become privy to this cascade. We enjoyed a heady shower under it.

The force with which the water tumbled down was quite something. The stream with the most concentration of water, there was no way we could put our heads there; it would feel like rocks coming down on our crown!

And the water temperature… Brr!

Please note that the way to the waterfall is through a mud path with uneven footholds & slopes. So, wear proper footwear & ensure you are sure – footed when you visit.

Pilgrimage

In the evening, we drove to Devprayag again but this time, to bow our heads at the Sangam. When you drive at/ after dusk from BBTG to Devprayag, there is a good chance you will see one or the other wild animal on the road. We saw a Spotted Deer! Deepak, who was accompanying us, mentioned that leopards too have been sighted on this road!

From the main road, where you can park your vehicle, you must climb downstairs, walk through a market, cross a suspension bridge over the river, climb up inclines & stairs & it is only then that you get to offer prayers!

Suspension bridges over both the rivers provide grand views – the river flowing beneath, the charming town & the sublime mountains in the background!

Raghunathji Mandir

Our first stop was the Raghunathji Mandir. It is also known as Tirukantamenum Kadi Nagar & is one of the 108 Divyadesam dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Lord Rama’s sacred shrine is crowned by a conical roof.

We came to know interesting legends related to the Raghunathji Mandir. That it has existed since the Ramayana days. That the Pandavas came to the temple at the onset of the Mahabharata war. That the lost/ mythical River Saraswati flows directly below Lord Rama’s shrine. That a nearby banyan tree has mysteriously withstood all calamities.

Legends aside, the Raghunathji Mandir came into existence & its present form due to the devotion of Hindus. The Himalayas are earthquake – prone & in 1803, a quake did shatter the temple but was subsequently repaired.

Please note that you must further climb a flight of steep stairs to reach the Raghunathji Mandir.

Sangam

Apart from Alaknanda & Bhagirathi, it is believed that the mythical Saraswati meets these two rivers at the confluence albeit underground. We walked up to the Sangam & waited for the evening aarti to begin.

We always think of rivers (or any water bodies) as being blue. And we think all rivers are of the same blue color. After having seen two confluences – Indus & Zanskar and Alaknanda & Bhagirathi – we can safely say that is not the case. Rivers can vary drastically in their colors; & they may not be blue all the time.

At the Devprayag Sangam, if you stand facing the meeting point, on your left will be the Bhagirathi & on your right, the Alaknanda. We were visiting right after the monsoon season; thus, both the rivers were of brownish – grey shades. The Bhagirathi was clear while the Alaknanda was muddy.

Also at the confluence were tens, if not hundreds, of Himalayan Golden Mahseer. We saw locals & pilgrims tossing dough bits to the fish who got into a mad scramble to catch it. The size of the Mahseer was huge!

The stairs on the Sangam Ghat are a good spot to meditate. The peace you will get will be unparalleled.

Soon, the aarti began. It was simple & yet peaceful. We felt the blessings of the gods on us just by being there. Despite spending only a few minutes here, we were already feeling affection for the Sangam.

Day Four

This was our last full day in Devprayag & we made the most of it by visiting the Danda Nagraja Mandir, bird watching & angling!

Danda Nagraja Mandir

Danda Nagraja is a Lord Krishna temple, 1.5 hours’ drive from BBTG. Anil, a staff member, took us there in a hotel vehicle. The temple is located on a higher altitude. Hence, on a bright day, you can see snow-capped peaks.

And we did! But we are jumping the gun. First things first – the place where you park your vehicle, an uphill path takes you to the temple. The path is a cemented one with shades provided at frequent intervals, but it is, nonetheless, uphill. So be prepared!

While we huffed & puffed our way to the top, we were greeted along the way by the chirping of birds. Being beginner bird watchers, seeing a few distinct kinds of birds brought us happiness.

Danda Nagraja Mandir is surrounded by oak & rhododendron trees. We could see that the temple held a place of reverence for locals, as well as people from across Uttarakhand.

Legend has it that Lord Krishna still resides in the temple. When devotees’ prayers are fulfilled, they return to Danda Nagraja Mandir to tie bells in the premises.

If you want to see the temple in all its festivity, make your way here in April for the Mela. Dharamshalas, shops & rest houses can be found around it.

After offering our prayers, we turned towards the viewpoint. It was a cloudless day & we got to see the peaks of Chaukhambha, Trishul, & Hathi Choti! The proverbial cherry on top!!

Bird Watching

Descending from the temple, Anil took us to a forest road where we walked & spent some time watching birds. We heard many but saw only a few!

Nonetheless, it was good to be able to breathe in some clean, fresh air.

Angling

Our last activity in Devprayag was trying our hand at angling. BBTG arranged a fishing guide who took N to a spot on the banks of the Ganges to catch the Himalayan Golden Mahseer (on catch & release basis).

Mahseer is regarded as a challenge by anglers across the world. It is a perseverance test. N did not catch any fish!

Day Five

We left Devprayag to return to our home. On the way, we halted at Lansdowne Trip Travel Café as it had caught our eye on our onward journey.

Lansdowne Trip Travel Café

Lansdowne Trip Travel Café caught our eye due to its colorful décor in a rustic setting. When we browsed for more information, we became aware that it was the idea of Shipra & Amit who quit their city lives to pursue their passion.

Trip Travel Café is an artistic café & a vintage store set in a converted donkey shed. We hopped in & took our seats on the low chairs.

Then something quite interesting happened – P had seen their Instagram post featuring coffee. So, we ordered that, but the server told us that they did not have coffee that day. So, P left a comment on the Insta post regarding coffee being unavailable.

Immediately, Shipra called her staff & asked to speak with P. She apologetically explained the situation (something to do with coordination if we remember correctly). We were impressed. Not every hospitality business takes its customer complaints seriously. And this level of promptness is unheard of.

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Good hospitality does make us smile!

We switched our orders to Bread Pizza, Fresh Lime Soda & Ginger Honey Lemon Tea, all of which were toothsome.

Note – Since our visit, Travel Café has moved to a new location with a new décor. We are sure the ambience & service remain as warm as ever!

This brought our Devprayag expedition to an end!

Accommodation Recommendation & Review

If you visit Devprayag purely from a pilgrimage POV, we recommend you stay in the main town. There are a few stays near the holy spots. A more popular way of visiting Devprayag is on an excursion from Rishikesh/ Pauri/ Haridwar.

However, if, like us, you visit with the desire to have the best of all worlds, then we highly recommend Banyan by The Ganges.

Banyan by The Ganges

We must thank our friend S; she truly has a knack for finding bewitching accommodations. BBTG is named after a banyan tree that stands on the banks of the Ganga.

BBTG is located on the Devprayag – Satpuli road, in a hamlet called Vyas Ghat. Everything about BBTG was captivating. The hotel premises were well – maintained.

The view of the Ganga & accessibility to it is simply excellent. Listening to the sound of the flowing river made us feel close to nature. (Not having network helped too!)

We were in the Riverfront Cottage. The cottages are Swiss Tents & thus, give you the feel of glamping. Though they are in a row, there is ample privacy.

Every cottage has a sit out ideal for meditating or simply soaking in nature. Our cottage had all the basic amenities & was comfortable. Housekeeping was on point.

BBTG has a lounge & a restaurant serving finger – licking cuisines. Over all our meals, we demolished dishes like Kadhi, Chocolate Cake, Malai Chicken, Methi Paratha, Pahadi Daal, Aloo Baigan Capsicum, Puri & Aloo Sabzi, and so many more. Our compliments to Chef Mukesh!

Servers Ashish & Ravinder ensure we ate well, always attentive to what we may need in the next moment. All the staff members ensured we had a brilliant stay.

The feature that seals the deal for our future visits – BBTG is pet – friendly!

Our Two Cents

It may be difficult to access Devprayag or other nearby attractions if you do not have your own vehicle. But BBTG can arrange that for you.
BBTG is better suited for adults – couples, groups of friends, people with pets etc.
There is neither network nor TV nor Wi-Fi at BBTG. If you are a sucker for these, this hotel will not be the right choice for you.

Posted on 08/03/202208/04/2022 by An Ordinary Girl

City of Joy – P’s Expedition to Kaee

City of Joy, Expedition, Kaee Contemporary

Now that I’ve summarized my Kolkata excursion (you can read that here), I’ll write a more detailed account of my days there. The first day, of course, was partly about getting to the city of not just joy, but diversity too.

A first-rate weather in Delhi NCR calmed my resfeber (noun. Swedish. The tangled feelings of fear & excitement before a journey.). The blue sky I saw from my IndiGo flight gave me hope that my expedition would go well.

The KOL airport has undergone a transformation since I was last here (2011). It’s streamlined now but still retains its compact nature; it took me barely 15 minutes from disembarking from the plane to exiting the airport.

I’d booked a Bharat Taxi; my cabbie, Fakhre Alam, promptly picked me up. Over the next four days, Alam bhai gave me a fine download of Kolkata & how it changed visibly over the last 20 years or so.

My first stop was my hotel, Fairfield by Marriott, to check in. I thank the hotel for assigning me a room with a fantastic view – from my panoramic window, I could look at the Biswa Bangla Gate, a futuristic structure; a curved metro line; & the skyline of Newtown.

It was early for lunch but I also wanted to grab a nap before heading out in the evening. So, I made my way to Chowman, an Asian restaurant owned by Debaditya Chaudhury, the founding member of a popular Bengali Rock Band, ‘Lakkhichhara’.

As I packed away on Chili Teriyaki Potato & Chowman Special Noodles (both of which were tasty), my tryst with the KOL rains began.

Luckily, when it was time to step out in the evening, the rain had ceased. I was on my way to Kaee Contemporary, an art gallery owned by Ms. Ambica Beri, whose Art Ichol I’d visited in Maihar in January. (Read my verse dedicated to Maihar here.)

It was the opening night of the exhibition, When the Other Stares Back. While I’ll write about it in detail below, let me just use one compound word to summarize it: thought – provoking!

My cousin, SD, picked me from Kaee Contemporary & we drove to Polo Floatel for dinner. At The Bridge, overlooking the river Ganges, we noshed at copious amounts of kebabs & biryani, gossiped about the past & the present, and had a fantastic time.

An adventurous Uber ride (where the driver told me he’s not the driver :D) brought me back to Fairfield & I called it wraps on Day 1.

Night View from my Room

Kaee Contemporary

Ever since I heard the name of the art gallery, I was curious to know what Kaee meant. It didn’t strike me that it referred to the Hindi word for moss. But, on visiting, my doubt was dispelled.

Like moss, Kaee Contemporary is perceptive to the changes within the environment. It elucidates Kolkata’s contemporary art ecosystem. The gallery nurtures a community of patrons, practitioners & public.

TBH, Kaee wasn’t part of my original sightseeing plans but when I came to know it was the opening night for a new exhibition the same day that I landed, I knew I’d to go. I’m glad I did!

‘When The Other Stares Back’ is an exhibition that will make you think about the dystopia we’re moving towards. It’ll move you with its dejection & it’ll frighten you with its atrocity. “What ARE we doing to our world?” is a question you’ll be forced to ask.

The very first set of art by Mr. Jagannath Panda caught my eye with its big & bright brocade birds (alliteration unintended!). The work The Custodian of Untold Truth (I) held my gaze for long. The multicolored rooster standing on an upturned Lamborghini with migrants on the move in the background (amongst other things) spoke ominously of a time when wealth will come crashing down when those whose labor helps in wealth creation will turn their backs on it.

Amongst Mr. Gigi Scaria’s work, Wrapped made me ponder about its significance for a while. It took me a few minutes to realize that this is what we’d been doing to our mountains – blasting them, cutting them, rounding them up, fencing them in & so on. We don’t even realize that in the end, it’s the mountains that will survive & not us.

Ms. Jayashree Chakravarthy’s Twigs to Creepers made me gasp. Her use of cotton, jute, paper, tea stain & the like make this piece of art so real & yet so surreal at the same time.

Ms. Radhika Agarwala’s Primordial Ooze series made me think, for a moment, that I was looking at fossils in amber. It reminded me of the multiple times I’d felt that nature will find a way, if left alone.

Ms. Sonia Mehra Chawla’s Vital to Life brought the microscopic world of plankton to the fore.

Lastly, Ms. Suhasini Kejriwal’s sepia – tinted artwork gave forth a new dimension to our everyday streets.

While many of the art works left me brooding, let me add that the opening night was also a lot of fun. For one, it gave me a chance to meet Ambica ma’am again as well as other interesting art practitioners.

The exhibition is on till 2022 September end. I’ll urge Kolkata residents to give a dekko.

The Bridge

The Bridge is the casual dining restaurant at the Polo Floatel. Walking the plank to enter the ship – themed hotel, I was immediately taken in by how vibrant the decor was.

Vibrant, ship – themed Polo Floatel

I’d expected the hotel/ restaurant to bob & was disappointed when it didn’t. We chose to sit inside as the weather was pretty airless. Soon we were munching on a Non-veg Kebab Platter in which all the types were succulent. An Assam Tea Spritzer performed the role of the perfect accompaniment.

Entrée was a Kolkata Chicken Biryani. What makes a Kolkata Biryani different is the inclusion of potatoes apart from the main meat.

We called it a night with a set of pictures on the Sky Deck. The soft sound of the river in front of us & the shimmering lights of the Howrah Bridge made for a fitting end.

Chowman

A small eatery but serving pretty scrumptious Asian cuisine – who dislikes that? My initial thought was to just eat an appetizer but when my Chili Teriyaki Potato turned out to be spicy, I ordered myself a Chowman Special Noodles. This was a mixed meat noodles & was pungent.

The decor had a black & red color scheme while the centerpiece was a Buddha statue, giving the place a soothing ambience.

Bharat Taxi

I’m enraptured I booked Bharat Taxi. Conveyance was my biggest apprehension as I dislike the uncertainty of app-based cabs. Bharat Taxi turned out to be the best decision of my Kolkata trip.

Coordinating with them was easy. Ms. Noori, my coordinator, understood my requirements well & remained in touch throughout my journey to ensure a hassle-free travel.

Mr. Fakhre Alam, my driver, was amiable, flexible & knew Kolkata well. Being a solo women traveler, I felt comfortable traveling with him.

No wonder Bharat Taxi is a reputed name in this service.

That’s about my Day 1. Back with Day 2 soon.

Posted on 07/06/202207/08/2022 by An Ordinary Girl

Har Destination Kuch Kehta Hai!

Stealing & modifying the tag line of an Indian multinational paint company, we firmly believe Har Destination Kuch Kehta Hai. Every place that we’ve been to has stood out in one or the other aspect. This has led us to believe that there are no bad destinations; just unfortunate circumstances that ruin a trip.

We define & categorise destinations in seven broad classes –

Chaturbhuj Mandir, Orchha

Architecture

These are destinations where the fine architecture will attract your attention. The architecture could be heritage (like the forts of Rajasthan, India) or contemporary (like the skylines of Melbourne, Australia).

Our Architecture Destination Pick

Jhansi Fort, Jhansi

The Bundelkhand region no doubt! We’ll probably never get tired of singing praises of this brave, historic land full of bonzer architecture. The Jhansi Fort is a testimony of the supreme sacrifice of Queen Laxmibai. In Orchha, you will brush past history at every turn. Khajuraho doesn’t even need too much mention; it’s already known across the globe!

Culture

Culture is a pretty all-encompassing term. A culture destination is one where you can experience fantastic cuisines, events, heritage landmarks, museums, national parks, temples etc. in one place.

Lodi Tomb, Delhi

Our Culture Destination Pick

We’re doubtless it’s India! Beguiling yet intimate, our country crackles with culture. Delhi with its ancient tombs. Sacred city of Varanasi. Romance of Rajasthan. Sunrise at Taj Mahal. Succulent idlis & dosas of Tamil Nadu. Rath Yatra of Odisha & Durga Pujo of West Bengal. More than a thousand museums sprinkled all over India. Bastion of tigers at the Corbett, Nagarhole & Bandipore reserves. Innumerable religious venues making our country the Land of Faith!

Events

Event/ festival destinations are those that revolve around visitor – focused festivals and/ or special events endorsed by tourism boards.

Our Events Destination Pick

We can’t really pick here because we’ve not done much of events/ festival tourism. The biggest reason for this is P’s fear of crowds. But the following are on our bucket list; so, hopefully, we’ll make at least these three happen –

Stock image from Pexels Free Photos

Witness a Brazilian Carnival
Go to Times Square on New Year’s Eve and count down as the ball drops
Watch the fireworks over Sydney Harbor on New Year’s Eve

Food

What’s life without food? & what’s travel without some fabulous, never-tried-before food? A food destination is one which attracts food lovers with its culinary specialties or with its platter of scrumptious dishes.

Our 1st meal in Italy… a brilliantly-done Carbonara

For such destinations, you will always hear the refrain, “If you go there & don’t eat xyz, did you even go there?”

Our Food Destination Pick

As far as we remember, it’s Italy for us! Tender pasta, meaty tomato sauces, wine in Tuscany, briny olives. Our wine tasting tour, overlooking the vineyards, was straight out of a foodie’s best dream! This was a decade back but we still remember the beautiful day spent in Chianti. It was gorgeous. There wines for tasting were amazing & so were the cheeses, the olive oils, the prosciutto… Sigh!

Sit & stare!

Landscape

Fab, dramatic landscapes are the main attractions of Landscape Destinations. Everything else becomes secondary. These are places where you don’t have to see a particular structure or experience an event. These are places where just being there is enough. Because, all around you, is surreal landscape!

Our Landscape Destination Pick

Panoramas to die for!

Think landscapes, think mountains! Think mountains, think the Himalayas! For those who live in Delhi NCR, the Himalayas are the chance of awesome panoramas. There is no better way to escape reality in our opinion.

When we are in the mountains for a break, we are in awe of life every single day. If dramatic scenes do not make us believe in the beauty of life, we doubt anything else can.

People

A People Destination is one where we go to know more about the people of that place & to meet them. To be precise, this has to do with indigenous populations. Like the Hill Tribes of Northeast India or the Indians of North America.

Our People Destination Pick

This is again something that we’ve not done too much of. We’ve briefly met the Masai tribe in Kenya & the Bishnois of Rajasthan but it was a cursory meeting in both the cases. The following are a few of the indigenous people we would like to meet & know more about –

Stock image from Pexels Free Photos

The Inuits of the Arctic
The Andamanese of the Andaman & Nicobar Islands, India

Wildlife

A wildlife destination is one where you can interact with wild animals in their natural habitats. While there are countries & regions that promote active interaction, i.e., collecting and/ or hunting, we don’t support that view.

masai tribe, mara, spotted land, plain, thorn tree

Masai Mara National Reserve – bliss for wildlife lovers

For us, wildlife is best enjoyed passively, i.e., by watching or via photography. By now, we’ve spent quite a few hours bruising our backbones, jumping around in the jeep/ gypsy, doing a safari. The excitement of catching a glimpse of an elusive big cat or the contentment of watching deer sunbathing is unmatched.

Our Wildlife Destination Pick

Almost certainly, it’s the Masai Mara National Reserve for us! We’ve grown up watching nature & wildlife channels on television. The Masai Mara occupied the top spot on our list. We visited during the migration season. And boy oh boy, till date it’s one of our best memories ever!

A Lazy Lion

Imagine an unending stretch of land in front of you, with golden grass swaying in the breeze, a blue sky overhead, and here & there a spotting of acacia trees! A giraffe chomps on the thorny leaves of the acacia tree! And then a Common Eland. Then a Lion. A Cheetah. An Impala. A White-Backed Vulture. Lilac – Breasted Rollers. Wildebeest. A White – Bellied Bustard. African Elephants. A Rhinoceros. Zebras. An Ostrich. Hippopotami. Agama Lizards. A Warthog. An East African Jackal. Just remembering these sights, & writing about them, still gives us Goosebumps!

So, there are the main destination classes. What kind of destination appeals to you?

Posted on 06/02/2022 by An Ordinary Girl · 4 Comments

Landour – A Scenic Town in Garhwal

It felt like craziness but we’d to do it!

So, March 2020. The world was locking down in a frenzy. We knew India would shut down anytime. The threat of COVID was rife but we knew we’d to make the most of a long weekend.

A last long weekend for a long time to come…

We decided to head to Landour. A place of serenity in the Himalayas. An advantage of the COVID scare was that roads, hotels & attractions, all seemed to be empty.

But the ascent from Mussoorie to Landour brought our hearts into our mouths. A narrow, uphill lane, jostling for space in Landour Bazaar, made us question our decision.

A narrow, sharp, ascending turn turned reaching our guesthouse, Ivy Bank, an adventure too. Nonetheless, as they say, where there’s a will, there’s a way.

We reached Ivy Bank, checked in & got a jolt from the chill. It was raining in the middle of March. We were caught a little by surprise at how very cold it had become.

The Full Day in Landour

We knew Landour as a tiny town that could be explored while walking briskly around its tranquil magnificence. So that’s what we did! After breaking our fasts with Aloo Pyaaz Parathas & Bournvita, we began to climb towards Char Dukaan.

We’d a choice between a shorter but steeper route and a longer but gradual road. We chose the latter. This was our only full day in Landour & it was a Sunday. And yet, the town was eerily empty.

We strolled on the empty uphill street, gaping at the white hail. The sky was blue. Clouds floated along rapidly yet gracefully. The Sun shone brightly after four days of absence. Eagles soared high.

We crossed Mr. Ruskin’s Bond house & Rokeby Manor on our way. Usually, P would crib about the strenuous climb but the hail patches on the ground kept her distracted.

Char Dukan

At Char Dukan, we were surprised to see people; we’d gotten used to the emptiness! This gets its name from the, literally, four shops adjacent to each other, next to the Saint Paul’s Church.

Tourists, or maybe youngsters from Mussoorie, ate away at the street food. Seeing the number of people hanging out at this spot, we knew it was a pretty popular place.

Anil’s Café & Tip Top Tea Shop seemed to be the more famous shops.

We chose to go to Café Ivy. The Café serves Continental & Italian food, amongst others. The Café Mocha & Hazelnut Cappuccino, with a view of the mountains, turned out to be good after that tiring climb.

Saint Paul’s Church

With our tiredness gone, we meandered to the St. Paul’s Church and checked out the stained Belgian glass used in the arty windows. Even after restorations, the carvings on the stained-glass windows looked perfect.

The heritage look has been maintained wonderfully.

Chukkar

We then chose to walk some more, this time taking the Chukkar. Best decision ever! This was a trail that circled the Landour ridge summits. This turned out to be the emptiest & the most beautiful part of Landour.

Our only companion was the fresh air. We walked among dense cedar, oak & pine trees. Foxy messages on signboards hung on these trees. We so wished the Chukkar never ended.

It’s become the best memory of our Landour trip.

Sunlight filtered in through openings in the forest. Now that’s a sight we can’t forget!

Sister’s Bazaar

We eventually reached Sister’s Bazaar. The Bazaar gets its name from the sisters who worked as nurses in the British Military Hospital. It was a residential colony with old cottages and shops.

And this is where the iconic Landour Bakehouse & A Prakash are located.

Landour Bakehouse

Landour Bakehouse is burrowed amidst the pines on the edge of a cliff. On entering, we knew we had time travelled. Its antique portraits & wooden décor made us feel so.

A board at the entrance gives a background of the place. Landour Bakehouse whips up delicacies based on the Landour Cookbook; a book written in the 1900s. Now that’s a way to celebrate recipes through eons, with lakhs of people savouring them!

With the wooden floors creaking under our shoes, we found our way to a table & ordered for a Cappuccino, a Hot Chocolate, & an Orange Marmalade Cake, and devoured these leisurely. We were taking in calories but they were worth it!

On our way out, P picked up a copy of A Glimpse of Eternal Snows by Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth.

Book 25 of 2020 – A Glimpse Of Eternal Snows by @longdropdoc

A book that made me choke. Dr. Wilson – Howarth entwines her personal #struggle with that of poor #nepali folks…

I didn't realize I was rooting for David till I came to the last section!

(1/ n)
— Priya Parul Singh (@ordinarygirlan) October 23, 2020

A. Prakash & Co

A. Prakash & Co, just down the road from the Bakehouse, has been functional since the 1920s. The popular adage goes – ‘if they don’t have it, you don’t need it!’

They started off by making peanut butter for the Britishers but now stock almost everything one can think of. However, their peanut butter & cheese continue to be incredibly famous.

We bought some Peanut Butter & some Ginger Orange Marmalade.

Kellogg Memorial Church

On our way back, we crossed the Kellogg Memorial Church & were infatuated with its fine architecture. The Memorial Church is named after Dr. Samuel Kellogg who wrote a book on Hindi Grammar for the English speakers.

We could see that the Church was quite an attraction. All tourists passing by would pose for clicks on its stone steps.

Landour Language School

Landour Language School is located inside the Memorial Church. For its students, being able to live in this stunning Himalayan hill station must be a big positive.

It was now time to descend & return to our guesthouse. We passed houses with pots hanging by the dozen. The word ‘wow’ was constantly on our lips. We were also loving the chill in the air.

All that walking had made us hungry again.

Doma’s Inn

Before we went to Ivy Bank, we stopped at Doma’s Inn next door for a late lunch. Chicken Phaley, Mutton Momos & Chicken Clear Soup made for a great Tibetan meal after all the English food we had eaten.

The restaurant was cute & silent. The staff was friendly but not intrusive.

This brought our Landour day to an end. As P sat in the guesthouse garden, looking at the sky, & warding off monkeys who seemed eager to steal her book, words began to pop in her head –

Cappuccinos, hot chocolates & mochas provide succour from the chill.
Bhutia puppies loiter around my feet.
I clutch at my belongings when langurs & monkeys eye them greedily.
But nothing can take away the smile from my face.
After all, I'm home. In the Himalayas.

Departure From Landour

After checking out from Ivy Bank Guesthouse, we visited the Jabarkhet Nature Reserve before leaving for Delhi NCR. But that Nature Reserve needs a separate post. So, we will be back with that.

Have you been to Landour? What did you make of it?

Accommodation Review

Ivy Bank Guesthouse is located at the spot from where the ascent to Char Dukan begins. The guesthouse itself is quite unassuming but the scenery from its garden was fascinating.

The staff was quite accommodating too. Our room was well-furnished but quite old-fashioned. We would put this down as a budget hotel.

Posted on 03/16/202205/26/2022 by An Ordinary Girl · 1 Comment

Can’t Get Enough…

We travelled across the region of Bundelkhand,
Seeing the remnants of history.
Laxmibai’s Jhansi was the first stop,
Despite her defeat, we only saw her victory.

Orchha beckoned next,
With its fort, rivers, cenotaphs & palaces.
We wandered around the tiny town awestruck,
Till our feet developed calluses.

Orchha told us about Chhatrasaal,
The ruler who resisted the Mughals.
Dhubela had a museum dedicated to him,
His reign, we figured, was fraught with struggles.

Next up was Khajuraho,
The place that needs no introduction,
We spent sunsets & sunrises
Gaping at the magnificent construction.

Panna made for a fitting end,
Where a tigress & her cubs had us stunned,
Our attempt at poetry is pretty lame,
But not so our emotions towards Bundelkhand.

It’s a land of ravines & hills,
Fortified by strongholds & castles,
The Bundelkhand dynasties went to great lengths,
To ward off the Mughal hassles.

We’ve visited Bundelkhand again,
Orchha & Panna asked us to return,
We thought we would be less awestruck,
But there was still so much to see at every turn.

We’ll keep coming back for more,
Our hearts haven’t got enough yet.
The Ken & Betwa appear in our dreams,
Ensuring we don’t forget…

You can listen to this verse on Spotify.

Chaturbhuj Mandir & Orchha Fort
Maharani Kamlapati Chhatri
When the sun rays fall on the temples, they light up with an ethereal glow.
Kalp-Vraksh, Orchhaa
On the banks of the River Ken, Panna
Sunset, Panna Tiger Reserve
Bundelkhandi Cultural Performance
Safari, Panna Tiger Reserve
Barua Sagar Fort, Uttar Pradesh
Jhansi Fort, Uttar Pradesh

Posted on 01/28/202204/02/2022 by An Ordinary Girl · 2 Comments

दिल का आंगन

दिल के मकान में एक आंगन है।
वो आंगन मैंने मैहर के नाम कर दिया।

अरे! मैहर तो छोटी जगह है।
इतना बड़ा आंगन क्यों दे दिया?
एक छोटा सा कमरा काफ़ी था।

मैं हँस पड़ी।

मैहर का खुला, नीला आसमान,
ये गेहूं और सरसों के खेत
वो कमल के अंगिनत झील
मैहर की त्रिकूटा पहाड़ी
और उसपे बैठी शारदा माँ
ये बाबा अलाउद्दीन का मकबरा
और वो मैहर बैंड
आर्ट इचोल में खड़ी छत्री
और जगमगाती खपरैल कोठी
तमसा के किनारे धूप सेकना
और बोगनविलिया की लालिमा निहारना…

तुम ही बताओ,
इतना कुछ कैसे समाऊँ मैं एक छोटे से कमरे में?

प्रिया पारुल

01/28/2022

I recite this verse in the latest LGS podcast. Available on Spotify!

There are always a few people whose opinion matters to us. Ambica ma’am, of Art Ichol, turned up to be one such person for me… I’m happy she liked my verse dedicated to Maihar!

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After the written word & an audio, a video was the logical next step. Enjoy the verse with a few images from our Maihar trip.

Posted on 11/23/2021 by An Ordinary Girl

Gulabi

Gulabi… room & mood both!

Casalini Estate, Taradevi

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New IG Reel on Casalini Estate

Posted on 11/23/2021 by An Ordinary Girl

The Good Part

We skipped to the good part!

Taradevi Mandir, Himachal Pradesh

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New IG Reel on Taradevi Temple

Posted on 11/18/202111/18/2021 by An Ordinary Girl

Excitement Of Flying!

The excitement was real! 😄 💗

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Posted on 08/25/202109/08/2021 by An Ordinary Girl · 6 Comments

Appreciation Post

When N & I got married, we promised each other we would never stop wondering. We felt it was a coincidence that the words ‘wondering’ & ‘wandering’ were so similar… Over the last eight years, we have explored much of India!

We pick up our car & drive away at the drop of the hat. Yet, there’s much left to be seen, heard, smelt, tasted, felt & experienced, for India is truly incredible… Travel has given us a chance to experience new cultures, heritage, and food!

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The steering wheel of my vehicle called ‘life‘…

More importantly, it’s reinstated our faith in humanity when we have been warmly welcomed by strangers.

We have completed road trips in Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, Uttarakhand, Rajasthan, Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka, Kerala, Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu, Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, and Daman & Diu…

Road trips bring about a heightened sense of experience. They are our preferred mode of travel! Any road trip opportunity excites us. An affection for vehicles, a steadfastness for traffic rules, a sense of amazement, and a flair for writing & storytelling make us perfect for undertaking road journeys…

We document our travelogues in our humble effort to popularise even further the behemoth that Incredible India is! Having said all of this, none of this would have been possible without a partner who seldom says no.

So, N, thank you for being my fellow hodophile!

Posted on 05/22/202106/02/2021 by An Ordinary Girl · 7 Comments

10 Reasons Why We Love The Mountains

Thanks to the lousy day we had yesterday, we have been trying to escape mentally to the mountains. If you know us, we feel ourselves at home in the mountains. 2021 has been difficult for all of us but we have managed to cope on most of the days. However, occasionally, like yesterday, it gets tough.

As we process our thoughts, we seek solace in travelling back through memories. Why we dreamt of the mountains when inundated with sad emotions is something that made us curious. We narrowed down to 10 reasons why we love the mountains so much.

1. Memories

The mountains were a part of our childhoods, from road trips on the winding roads of Nepal to scaling gravity defying inclines in Darjeeling to trying yak cheese in Gangtok. As young adults, we remember freezing in the chilly winds of Chail & viewing surreal sights in the Scottish Highlands.

Our honeymoon was in Italy, but the standout memory is of viewing the Alps as we flew from Paris to Venice. We are lucky to have visited some amazing places & will continue to make more such memories.

2. Delight

We are not keen on adventure sports, but walking & hiking are a part of us. When a hike takes us to a vantage spot, the adrenaline rush is exceptional. We get drunk by that sense of achievement. Physically we may say ‘no more’ but in our hearts, we know we will do it again.

3. Food

Chicken Thenthuk at The Tibetan Kitchen, Leh, Ladakh

Oh dear! This is triggering a major nostalgia. Mountain food is dainty! We always opt for the local cuisine & have seldom been disappointed. The steaming thukpa of the Tibetan – influence regions to the rajma – chawal (Indian style kidney beans with rice) of the lower Himalayas, we have always had a plethora of options when we visit the mountains.

& how can we not mention the freshly baked goods of hill stations which were home to British colonists!

4. Freedom

When we have stood on the top of a mountain, freedom has been our dominant emotion. For those of us who live in the Indian plains, the warm Sun on our cheeks is welcome for a change. As we inhale the fresh air, with every breath, we exhale the word ‘freedom’.

5. Inactivity

There can be much to do in the mountains but there is always an option to relax. We love the fact that there is no pressure to dress up & complete a checklist of sights to see. There have been mountain trips when we have just lazed in the gardens of our accommodations, looked at the sky change colours, & listened to the birds chirp.

Spotting Indian Bisons at Dhupgarh, Madhya Pradesh, India

The pace of life for the locals is easy-going too & that can be infectious!

6. Landscapes

For those of us who live in Delhi NCR, the Himalayas are our chance of awesome panoramas. There is no better way to escape reality in our opinion. When we are in the mountains for a break, we are in awe of life every single day.

A misty morning at Pachmarhi, Madhya Pradesh

If dramatic scenes do not make us believe in the beauty of life, we doubt anything else can.

7. People

OMG! We could write pages on this. We have met such beautiful people in the mountains. Their life outlook is different from ours & something to take inspiration from. They know the value of life & they do not take anything for granted.

A dramatic sunset at Lodwick Point, Mahabaleshwar, Maharashtra, India

We cannot forget the ladies we met in Kinnaur district in Himachal Pradesh – the friendliest people we have ever come across.

8. Seasons

Be it any season, the mountains remain extraordinary. The breeze of spring, the rivers of summer, the yellowing leaves of autumn, the bone chilling cold of winter – each season has a distinctive vibe & must be experienced.

9. Travel

Our appetite for the mountains has taken us to impressive places – high altitude deserts of Ladakh, lush green hills of Satpura, rainfed forests of Western Ghats, umpteen hamlets of Himachal, warm hospitality of Bhutan, birds of Uttarakhand, Rift Valley of Kenya, safety of Sikkim, rice fields & volcanos of Bali, spooky Scottish Highlands, Great Wall in China, mountainous island of Kauai, undulating streets of Hong Kong, breath-taking valleys of Kashmir, cable car rides of Langkawi, vineyards of Chianti, Blue Mountains of Australia…

To each of these places, we have said, ‘we will be back’ & we do dream of returning but we also realise life is too short to keep seeing the same places. So, we continue to revisit these places in our hearts!

10. Ambition

Every day we dream of the mountains. Every day we envisage our forever home in the mountains. This becomes more pronounced in the summer when we feel ourselves melting under the Sun. & also in winter because the very thought of snow surrounding us is delicious (even if inconvenient).

We do not know if & when our forever mountain home will materialise but that does not stop us from daydreaming.

It may take a while, but we will be back in the mountains at the first safe opportunity. Breathe in that fresh air & make those memories again. Till then, we are staying home, staying safe, & hope you are too!

Posted on 04/15/2021 by An Ordinary Girl · 1 Comment

Doors of Rajasthan

So we’ve been wanting to do this for a LONG time but something or the other made us put it off. Finally, the Holi post of Incredible India made us bite the bullet!

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Isn’t that a treat to the eyes? So, here we go, with our version of ‘Doors of Rajasthan’!!

Doors of Rajasthan… Or colors of Rajasthan!

Do you like it? Do you’ve a version of ‘Doors of Rajasthan’ too? Please let us know in the comments.

P. S. This has to be our shortest blog post EVER!

Posted on 07/15/2020 by An Ordinary Girl

Pali

A Brief Halt at a Unique Indian Temple

On our Udaipur to Jodhpur stretch of the Rajasthan road trip, Pali (92 KMS from Ranakpur) turned out to be a spontaneous halt. We had known about a unique temple existing in Pali but when we found it right on the highway, we had to stop.

The temple is called Om Banna Dham and/ or Bullet Baba Mandir. We write the key points from our visit here.

About Pali

Pali is situated on the banks of the river Bandi. Since the 11^th century, it was part of one or the other kingdom – Guhilas, Songara Chauhans, Champavata Rathores & more & finally Marwar. Pali has the distinction of being Maharana Pratap’s birthplace. During India’s struggle for independence, its ‘thakurs’ had confrontations with the British.

Pali is famous for a sweet called ‘Gulab Halwa’ & for its kulfi & ice-cream. It also has many industries. & like any other industrial city, Pali has been struggling with a pollution problem.

What’s Unique About the Temple?

The temple is dedicated to a local youth called Om Singh Rathore. What makes the temple unique is the legend behind it. In 1970, Om Rathore died in a road accident at this spot. The police hauled his motorcycle, a Royal Enfield Bullet 350, away to the police station.

But the next morning, it was mysteriously discovered back at the accident site. The police again hauled the bike to the station. The next morning, it was again found at the accident site. The police watched the motorbike one night.

The fable goes that it started on its own & stopped at the accident site. After this ghostly happening, the police returned the motor bike to Om Banna’s family. A shrine was erected at the accident site. Since then, Om Singh Rathore’s spirit is said to protect other riders.

The motor bike is the idol at this temple. It draws huge crowds specially the local population. It is almost a rite of passage for bikers. Ironically, Bullet Baba is offered alcohol. We wonder how he manages to protect his drunk devotees!

Om Singh Rathore’s spirit protects other riders.

We Recommend –

Photography is allowed inside the temple.
It can become crowded. Keep your wits about you.

Getting Out

All around the temple, there are ‘dhabas’ (roadside eating joints). Hop into one, chat up with the locals & find out more about the legend of Om Banna.

India – A Land of Temples – & Unique Ones at That

We doubt you can travel even a kilometer in India without coming across a temple. Many of them are ancient while others will, nonetheless, carry ‘ancient’ in their names. Each temple, however, has its distinct belief system.

It is rare to find one devoid of devotees asking for their wishes to be fulfilled or thanking the deity for fulfilled wishes. However, there are a few that are totally unique.

Congress President Sonia Gandhi Temple in Telangana
Devji Maharaj Mandir (exorcism & ghost fair) in Madhya Pradesh
Devaragattu Temple (devotees hit each with sticks) in Andhra Pradesh
Prime Minister Narendra Modi Temple in Tamil Nadu
Stambheshwar Mahadev (vanishing temple) in Gujarat

& so many more…

Ironically, Bullet Baba is offered alcohol. Wonder how he manages to protect his drunk devotees!

Have you visited Pali?

Posted on 12/11/2019 by An Ordinary Girl

Buddham Saranam Gacchami

Mulagandha Kuti Vihara, Sarnath, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India

A half-day excursion to Sarnath

“Buddham Saranam Gacchami. Dhammam Saranam Gacchami. Sangham Saranam Gacchami.”

(“I go to the Buddha for refuge. I go to the Dhamma for refuge. I go to the Sangha for refuge.”)

parikrama, bodhi tree, mulagandha kuti vihara, sarnath, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — Do a ‘Parikrama’ of the Bodhi tree.

We have been drawn towards Buddhism for a long time now. As we visited places like Bhutan, Ladakh & Spiti, we came to know more about Gautama Buddha & His teachings. Siddhartha by Herman Hesse further increased our fascination.

In a world of extremes, we find Buddhism to be a balanced religion. The basic premise of ‘looking within’ & ‘introspecting’ appeals to us. It was, thus, only natural for us to visit Sarnath on our travel to Varanasi.

After spending a couple of days in Banaras, we hired a cab to take us to Sarnath. We had a flight to catch later in the evening; so, we wanted to utilize the few hours we had in an effective manner.

Dhamek Stupa, sarnath, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — The Dhamek Stupa

Sarnath is located ~10 KMS from Varanasi. It is the place where Buddha first taught the Dharma. Thus, it is an important pilgrimage center for Buddhists. After the chaos of Varanasi, Sarnath is a sea of peace.

Once you reach the deer park, most of the sightseeing spots are at a walking distance of each other. Engage a guide in Sarnath who can brief you on its history.

Archaeological Museum

We started our Sarnath sightseeing at the Archaeological Museum. You need to buy a ticket from across the road. There is a locker room to deposit all your things, including cellphone.

In the museum, there are stunning artifacts dug up from excavations. Fine Buddhist art is housed. You can see the Asoka Pillar as well as a Buddha sculpture where He sits with eyes downcast, and with a halo around His head.

The Asoka Pillar is, of course, from where the Indian National Emblem is adopted. Four Indian Lions sit back to back on a circular base; a Horse on the left, the Asoka Chakra in the center, and a Bull on the right on the base.

If, like us, you are a history aficionado, you will love the Archaeological Museum. It houses figures from Gupta, Kushana & Mauryan periods.

Chinese Buddhist Temple

Our next stop was the Chinese Buddhist Temple. It is located a little away from the other sightseeing spots. The temple is beautifully painted in red and yellow in the Chinese architectural style. You can see Chinese lanterns hanging on the walls. The surroundings are calm.

The outer wall has a painting depicting the route taken by Huein Tsang to come to India. Interestingly, the land on which the Chinese Buddhist Temple stands used to be a mangrove. You can see a lot of Chinese/ Japanese pilgrims/ tourists here.

Dhamek Stupa

The huge campus is a delight for history & heritage lovers. The Dhamek Stupa was built in 500 CE to commemorate the Buddha’s activities in Sarnath. It is a thick, solid & tall cylinder of bricks and stone. The wall of the Dhamek Stupa is covered with exquisitely carved figures of humans and birds.

commemorate, Buddha, Sarnath, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — Built to commemorate the Buddha’s activities in Sarnath…

Legend has it that if you manage to fling a white prayer cloth atop the stupa, your wishes will be fulfilled. While it may seem impossible to passersby, there are lads here who do that for a fee.

Apart from the main structure, there are innumerable small but significant ones. The Asoka pillar with an edict engraved on it stands nearby. The excavations do not even seem to be complete & yet, the magnitude stuns you.

Mulagandha Kuti Vihara

The Mulagandha Kuti Vihara is a monastery & temple surrounded by gardens. It is enshrined with Shakyamuni Buddha’s relics. The Buddhist architecture is worth gaping at, specially the frescoes. The frescoes depict scenes from Buddha’s life & are quite pretty. There is, thus, little doubt why Mulagandha Kuti Vihara is a tourist attraction.

You can hear the chants which bring about serenity. The well-maintained precincts are lined with Buddhist prayer flags. You can do a ‘Parikrama’ of the Bodhi tree. Legend has it that this tree is a descendant of the tree under which Lord Buddha achieved enlightenment.

As we were short on time, our Sarnath visit was for just half-a-day. But, if you are a history buff or are spiritual, you can spend days here.

Posted on 11/20/2019 by An Ordinary Girl · 6 Comments

SEEING BENARES IS DIFFERENT FROM EITHER HEARING OR READING ABOUT IT! *

Varanasi in 36 hours

We still prefer referring to Varanasi as Kashi. The word ‘Kashi’ conjures up images of ancient India. After all, didn’t Mark Twain say, “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”?

Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh Ghat — The iconic Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat

We made our way to Varanasi on a January long weekend. We had to cancel our original train booking as it was running late. (Winter can be a little risky time to travel in north India, as flights & trains get disrupted due to fog.) We flew to Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport located in Babatpur, 26 KMS from Varanasi.

The First 12 Hours

The highway from Babatpur to Varanasi was under construction then; so, it took us a while to get to our destination. But the construction has been completed in November 2018.

New Vishwanath Mandir, Banaras Hindu University, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India — Colors of Benares New Vishwanath Mandir

Our first evening in Varanasi was reserved for a boat ride on the River Ganges. It had been a childhood dream for us to take a boat on the Ganges & watch the Ghats. As the Sun set, we made our way from the Assi Ghat to the Dashashwamedh Ghat. The gentle swaying of the boat was accompanied by the boatman’s stories. The Ghats twinkled as we floated alongside. Our hearts could not possibly be fuller.

At sunset every day, the Dashashwamedh Ghat is lit up. Priests line up for a magnificent spectacle wherein the Mother River is worshiped. We felt blessed to be watching the iconic Ganga Aarti. The aarti time makes the Ghats (& the river in front) crowded; so, ensure you get here well in time. It was a heady feeling to be a part of faith at this scale. Watching the aarti from the boat was a surreal experience too!

From the Dashashwamedh Ghat, we moved inland through the maze of lanes that are famous for small temples, eateries, shops & what not. We did not have a set agenda but as our tummies were rumbling, we stopped at Bana Lassi. We tried a Plain Lassi & a Banana Lassi. Both were lip smacking good. The cafe had a bohemian touch with floor seating & painted walls – Bob Marley featured too. The place appeals to foreign tourists. Indian youngsters would feel at home here. We could imagine curling up with a book & trying out all their lassi flavors!

lassi, bana lassi, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — Our lassis at Bana Lassi

We roamed the Varanasi streets. The abundance of color on the roadside shops dazzled us. Look out for handicraft centers having figurines of gods & goddesses. You will be struck with the variety in color, material & size!

It was time to call it a night after some more yummy in our tummy. Varanasi is known to have one of the tastiest street foods. To validate this, we headed to Kashi Chaat Bhandaar. This place is so good that even a non – street food lover like us returned to eat more. A small, easy – to – miss shop with a handful of tables for seating. Most customers prefer to stand outside, on the road, to gobble up the goodies. The Golgappa, Gulab Jamun, Kulfi Falooda, Potato Tikki Chaat, & Samosa Chaat knocked us off. We may return to Varanasi just for this!

It was a cold January night. Chai would help us sleep better. (Well, there doesn’t really have to be a reason to have tea.) At the Assi Ghat, a kiosk called ‘Taste of Banaras‘ offered us delicious kulhad chai.

Happiness, kulhad chai, cold night, taste of benares, assi ghat, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — Happiness is… A kulhad chai on a cold night!

The Next 24 Hours

We had traveled over the Makar Sankranti long weekend. It’s considered auspicious to take a dip in the holy river, but, with the chill, we just bowed our heads. However, we did enjoy watching the kite flying.

We hit the road soon after. The best way to get around Varanasi is on foot or take a rickshaw. Our first stop was the Tulsi Manas Mandir. This is a newer temple. It is built on the site where the Ramayana was written. The gardens around the temple were clean & well-maintained.

tulsi manas mandir, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — Tulsi Manas Mandir. That blue!

The Sankat Mochan Mandir is dedicated to the monkey god, Lord Hanuman. As if on cue, there were a lot of monkeys roaming around. While they mind their own business, it’s a good idea not to engage with them. The temple itself is divine. It has a calming effect. It is, probably, the second popular temple in Varanasi, after the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir. There are lockers made outside the temple where it is mandatory to deposit all your belongings, including cellphones.

The Banaras Hindu University has beauty & history at one place! BHU, of course, is legendary. It was a pilgrimage of sorts to come here. The campus took our breath away with its cleanliness, greenery, & wide roads. This is one of the oldest universities in India, & you can almost feel the history when you stand in the campus.

What we liked about the new Vishwanath Mandir was that it was orderly & did not have the same chaos that other temples do. There were proper queues formed & the darshan was managed by officers. The temple is in the middle of the BHU campus & its own precincts are huge. This is a new temple & maintained quite well. Have a cold coffee with ice cream at its entrance.

new Vishwanath Mandir, shikhar, banaras hindu university, bhu, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — The Sun plays with the new Vishwanath Mandir shikhar.

The Nepali Mandir was on our must-see list. The temple is built as a replica of the Pashupatinath Mandir. It was a hidden gem as even many locals did not know about it! It was, thus, a little difficult to find. (P.S. It is on Lalita Ghat.) But once here, we fell in love with the woodwork.

The Nepali Mandir was constructed by one of the erstwhile Nepali kings. The temple is different from all the other temples in its architectural style, materials used etc. The terrace is a good place to view the river. (There’s an entrance fee for foreigners.)

It is a lifelong dream of many Hindus to visit the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir. Glad we got a chance! The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, one of the principal deities in Hinduism. The Kashi Vishwanath Mandir is in a narrow gully with a heavy police presence.

Many ‘priests’ will approach you for a hassle-free ‘darshan‘. You can opt for them if you want to cut the queue & do not mind parting with some money. Better to fix the amount with them beforehand. Our ‘priest’ made us buy a few offerings, got a locker for us to deposit our stuff & to remove our shoes. He, indeed, took us through some other gate where the line was shorter.

Once inside, he took us to the various parts of the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, made us worship & told us the significance of the temple. Beware: these priests have tie ups with the priests inside. So, they will make you complete a worship & ask you to donate large sums of money. It is OK to say no or give only what you want to give.

It was good to be able to visit the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, but it would have been better if there was more discipline inside. Once out after the darshan, you can feast on ‘malaiyo‘ – a thick, creamy variant of curd, available in the gullies connecting the temple to the street. Yum! After all, every puja must be followed by pet – puja.

Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, malaiyo, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — No photos of the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir but chandan courtesy visit to the temple. Gorging on ‘malaiyo’…

(Disclaimer: The area around the Kashi Vishwanath Mandir has been cleaned of encroachments & been beautified.)

We ended our evening at the Assi Ghat. Cultural events keep happening here. The Ganga Aarti takes place at the Assi Ghat too. But as it is not as famous as the one on the Dashashwamedh Ghat, it is less crowded. We got front row seats to view this engrossing event. Morning after morning, evening after evening, it is only faith that makes this possible.

We had heard since childhood that the Banaras Ghats were not fit to step on. However, we did not encounter any such filth. All the Ghats have steps leading to the river. While hawkers & mendicants still throng these steps, there is no stinking dirt as such.

Banaras Ghats, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — The Banaras Ghats have a life of their own!

We loved Varanasi. Delightfully vibrant! Spiritual & all-encompassing!! We understand now why people choose to spend their last days here. Kashi stole our hearts & left us wanting for more. To (mis) quote Arnold Schwarzenegger, “We’ll be back”.

Accommodation

We wanted to stay near the Ghats but had a difficult time finding a suitable accommodation. Thank goodness we chanced upon Hotel Banaras Haveli! It is located at a walking distance from the Assi Ghat. We could spot the Ghat & the River Ganges from our room.

River Ganges, hotel rooftop, hotel banaras haveli, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — View of the River Ganges from the hotel rooftop

The room was comfortable with all required amenities available. Breakfast was served on the rooftop restaurant which was a great way to start the day on a winter morning. The hotel reception guys also arranged a boat for us for the evening boat ride. They also provided the airport pick & drop. All in all, a good choice!

With the Ghat being next door, & with rooms offering a view of the Ganges, we do recommend this hotel.

* Quote from The Gospel of Sri Ramakrishna

Statue, Madan Mohan Malviya, Banaras Hindu University, BHU, varanasi, uttar pradesh, india — Statue of the Late Madan Mohan Malviya at the Banaras Hindu University

Posted on 11/04/201911/04/2019 by An Ordinary Girl · 1 Comment

A Walk On The Rajpath

Winter is a great time to go sightseeing in Delhi. Before winter 2019 begins, we felt we must finish blogging about our winter 2018 sightseeing!

To begin, we post about Rajpath today. Ideally, we should come to the most important road in India to see the Republic Day Parade. But, thanks to our apprehension of crowds, we’re better off watching it on the TV, at home… Apart from 26 January, we can come here any day!

Ever since we’ve discovered birding, we notice far more birds now.

With time, we’re managing to identify birds too. Nature will be our salvation…

A visit inside the President’s House in 2017

A glimpse of the Rashtrapati Bhavan from the outside in 2018. The flag on top means the President of India is in the house… We aimed to walk from the gates of the Rashtrapati Bhavan to the India Gate, covering the stretch of Rajpath that’s a familiar sight, thanks to the Republic Day Parade!

Raisina Hill houses India’s most important government buildings. Consequently, it’s often used as an equivalent for the Government of India…

While we popularly know these as North Block & South Block, together they’re known as the Secretariat Building.

Sandstone jaalis & carved elephant heads give the renaissance dome an Indian touch. Also note the chhatris… This is where the Government of India is housed! Situated on the Raisina Hill, the North & South Blocks are symmetrical buildings.

They sit on opposite sides of the Rajpath axis & flank the Rashtrapati Bhavan… It’s well-known that Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens was responsible for town planning & (what’s now) Rashtrapati Bhavan construction!

His second-in-command, Herbert Baker, is forgotten, even though he was the one to design the Secretariat Building, New Delhi.

The term ‘Raisina Hill’ was coined after land was acquired from 300 local village families.

Relations between Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens & Baker deteriorated. The hill in front of the Rashtrapati Bhavan obscured the view of the Rajpath & the India Gate… Only the Rashtrapati Bhavan dome was visible from far away!

Sardar Bahadur Sir Sobha Singh was an Indian civil contractor, prominent builder & real estate developer.

President’s Estate, South Block, India Gate, Rashtrapati Bhavan & Vijay Chowk – Sir Sobha Singh has left behind a rich legacy. Wonder if Sobha Realty is related to the man…

Herbert Baker used the Indo-Saracenic Revival architecture to design the Secretariat Building. Love how Indian touches were added to it…

As we began walking down Rajpath, towards the India Gate, we looked back at the Rashtrapati Bhavan.

The largest residence that any head of state in the world has, the President of India has it.

As we stepped down from the Raisina Hill, on either side of the Rajpath were fountains set in gardens.

The ceremonial boulevard runs not just till the India Gate, but till the Dhyan Chand National Stadium.

The Sansad Bhavan is the house of the Parliament of India, containing the Lok Sabha & the Rajya Sabha.

Salute to the temple of democracy.

The Rajpath is lined on both sides by huge lawns, & rows of trees.

We remember a time when these lawns used to be abuzz with activity. You could find every kind of street hawker selling her/ his wares here… It’s been curtailed now! Areas have been designated where hawkers can pitch their goods.

The Rajpath is also used for key Indian political leaders’ funeral processions.

We’ve to give it to the Delhi horticulture department.

It does a great job of maintaining the greens, & of ushering in color.

The India Gate was designed by Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens. Its architecture is quite like the Arch of Constantine, the Arc de Triomphe, & the Gateway of India… On 10 February 1921, the Duke of Connaught laid the foundation stone of the India Gate!

Our symmetry obsession is satisfied, seeing the neatly stacked rows of plants, with not even one out of place.

Flags of the Indian Armed Forces at the India Gate

The India Gate has become a symbol for India.

The India Gate is also a popular spot for civil society protests. This war memorial evokes emotions – the senselessness of war, & yet, a passion for the nation…

No walk is complete without satisfying grub in the end.

Penne A la Vodka at The Immigrant Cafe 2.0

Kadhi Chaawal Arancini at The Immigrant Cafe 2.0

The Arancini was an interesting take on the humble kadhi chawal.

With our hearts & tummies full, we plotted our next heritage outing.

Posted on 03/18/201903/18/2019 by An Ordinary Girl · 3 Comments

KHAJURAHO – A PHOTO-LOG

Can’t help falling in love…
Nandi – the gate-guardian deity of Kailasa

Madhya Pradesh must be the most underrated tourist destination in India. The centrally-located state has nature, heritage, & art. Yet, we neither hear much about it nor see family & friends visiting MP. We ourselves were oblivious of all that the state has to offer till we made our way there.

temple, story — Each of the temples has a story behind it.

On our maiden trip, we spent a little less than a week exploring three destinations – Khajuraho, Panna Tiger Reserve & Orchha. Here, we take you through Khajuraho with our photo-blog.

wonder, temple, construct, modern technology — We wonder how the temples were constructed then, when no modern technological marvel was available…

Khajuraho was a seat of the Chandela rulers’ authority. They built numerous temples in the town in the 9th and 10th centuries. Today, the group of temples is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The logo made by UNESCO for the Group of Temples

scene, battle, daily life, shringar, meditation — Scenes from battles, from daily life, from shringar, from meditation to many more…

temple, back, craftsmen — Make it a point to go around the temple to the back; you will realize the craftsmen did not neglect the backside either!

khajuraho, erotica, hype — Khajuraho being only about erotica is a hype!

Erotic sculptures do not make up even 5% of the total. The guides will ask you if you are okay seeing & knowing more about them before they point them out to you.

temple, visit, sunrise, sunset — The temples are best visited at the time of sunrise/ sunset.

The golden hour is a good time for photography too.

excavation, old temple, unearth — There are excavations still going on & new old temples (!) are being unearthed.

Since the Jain Temples were built around the same time, their architecture is strikingly similar to that of the Hindu temples.

The standalone Chaturbhuj Temple has a well – preserved idol of Lord Vishnu.

sun rays, temple, light, ethereal glow — When the sun rays fall on the temples, they light up with an ethereal glow.

Western Group of Temples

This is the main temple group.
You need to spend time to explore this big complex.

lord ganesha, sculpture, mesmerize, eye for detail, craftsmanship — Look for a Lord Ganesha sculpture to be mesmerized with the eye for detail & the craftsmanship.

Even the roll of His tummy fat has been sculpted with precision!

lakshmana temple, well preserved, exquisite sculpture — The Lakshmana Temple is well-preserved & has exquisite sculptures.

Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, Lord Shiva, grand — The Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is easily the grandest!

It is built in the shape of Mount Meru, the source of creation of the world.

parvati temple, relatively new — The Parvati Temple (in the foreground) is a relatively new one.

It was built by one of the last Bundelkhand kings when the British were instigating religions against each other. To promote harmony, the king built this temple adopting the styles of architecture from Hinduism, Islam & Buddhism. The leftmost is a Hindu ‘shikhar’, the middle one is a Buddhist style pagoda, & the rightmost is an Islamic style dome.

temple, unique — Each of the temples has a uniqueness about it.

A light & sound show takes place in the evening at the Western Group of Temples. You can opt to see that to understand the regional history better.

temple, architecture, beauty, awe — Each of the temples has an architectural beauty that left us in awe.

Tips:

love, silhouette, sculpture — We loved the silhouettes the external sculptures made.

Khajuraho is best visited in the winter months – October to March. The weather is salubrious to walk around the temples. The temples become even more radiant when the winter sun rays fall on them!
Khajuraho has air connectivity. Delhi – Khajuraho – Varanasi is a preferred route by tourists. We, however, opted for a train to Jhansi – road to Orchha – road to Khajuraho – flight to Delhi.
Khajuraho is a paradise for architecture/ art/ history/ photography enthusiasts. However, if you are someone who yawns at heritage, pass!

khajuraho, paradise, architecture, art, history, photography, enthuse — Khajuraho is a paradise for architecture/ art/ history/ photography enthusiasts.

Khajuraho left an indelible mark on us…

Note: Apart from one temple, worship is not permitted in any of the others.

Posted on 12/17/2018 by An Ordinary Girl · 3 Comments

So, What’s Airbnb?

Every now & then, a new phenomenon catches the world’s attention. If it is a fad,it dies down naturally. Else, it goes on to create history. Airbnb, to us,falls in the second category. We had been reading & hearing about Airbnb but our inhibitions were preventing us from trying it out. Will a stranger’s house be clean & hygienic? Will it be safe? But then came a time when we were unable to get a hotel for our travel. After exhausting all the hotel options on TripAdvisor (our love for TA needs to be another blog post), we perforce switched to Airbnb. We chanced upon a two-bedroom cottage in our destination.Looked pretty & reasonably-priced too. The questions still nagged our minds but we went ahead & booked. & that was a life-changing decision for us…

shepherd, hut, host, family, homemade, food — At the shepherd’s hut, we sat with our host’s family to have homemade food!

Since then, we have stayed in four Airbnb accommodations – a cottage in the Himalayas, a villa in Bali, a flat on the Indian west coast & a shepherd’s hut in the Himalayan foothills. There was no reason for us to dislike any of these. While the cottage was a little away from the town center, it had an incredibly homely feel. The villa in Bali, of course, was outstanding. The flat on the west coast was like a regular apartment but you could see the Arabian Sea from there. & the shepherd’s hut gave us a chance to interact with his family & understand their customs. In all of these, there was the owner/ a caretaker to help us with food.

So, for the uninitiated, Airbnb aggregates bed & breakfast services across the world, & in every possible price range. From the backpackers’ hostel to the luxury travelers’ state-of-the-art mansion, Airbnb has got it all.

A cottage in the Himalayas – Our first AirBnB experience – A winner!

You can choose to have the entire place to yourself. Or you can have a private room but share the common space. Or you can stay in a shared space, like a common room. We have, till now, only chosen accommodations where we had the entire place to ourselves.

So, Airbnb is cheap. Hold on! What? Please do not have this notion. A few Airbnb accommodations can cost as much as a five-star hotel. We did a sample search for a not-very-touristy destination, Gwalior. The available options, for four adults, ranged from INR 900 per night to INR 6,000 per night. But what works in the favor of Airbnb is that the more people you are & the longer you stay,the cheaper the options become.

Apartment, Indian West Coast, Arabian Sea — An apartment on the Indian West Coast – Spotting the Arabian Sea in the distance

We also like their security features. The hosts are verified & so are the guests. We had to upload our photograph & a photo id. We could book the accommodation only if the two matched. It gave us some comfort that there may not be a psychopath on the other side.

What must be remembered – it is not a hotel. So, do not expect 24*7 service or‘tandoori’ food or room service etc. Think of it as staying in someone’s house.

So,go ahead, create an account & book. Do not forget to share your experience with us.

Posted on 10/09/201810/08/2018 by An Ordinary Girl · 2 Comments

Cruising Along The Indian West Coast

The 2009 edition of Outlook Traveler spoke of the Mumbai to Goa drive enjoying cult status. The NH17, fondly remembered as NH66, ran along the western coast of India. At a few places, it came at a stone’s throw distance from the Arabian Sea. It sounded exciting.

Arabian Sea, Maravanthe — This is how close to the sea we would drive at times…

So, for our 2017 annual domestic trip, we chose the Western Ghats & the Indian west coast. It was in line with our lets-see-the-country-at-least-before-we-die plan. When we started studying about the NH66, we found that it ran from Panvel to Kanyakumari. We were thrilled! We had ~10 days to spare. We could do a longer stretch than just Mumbai to Goa.

After extensive research & iterations, we narrowed down to a return trip of ~2,100 kilometers: Mumbai- Ganpati Phule- Gokarna- Kannur- Karwar- Panchgani- Mumbai.

The only reason we could not go till Kanyakumari: we had to return to Mumbai to drop off the rented self-drive car. Self-drive car rentals in India do not have the feature of different pick & drop points yet. & 10 days were inadequate to go till Kanyakumari AND return to Mumbai. So, the remaining stretch in maybe another trip!

Karnataka, Kerala, backwater, NH66 — In South Karnataka & North Kerala, we crossed many backwater channels…

maravanthe beach, unknown, people, frolic, water, truck driver, punjab, bihar, northeast — Maravanthe Beach… unknown… where the only people who stop to frolic in the waters are truck drivers hailing all the way from Punjab, Bihar & the Northeast.

Most of our road trip was on the NH66. Here & there, we touched SH92 (in Maharashtra), SH34 (Karnataka), NH48 (Maharashtra), & the Mumbai- Pune Expressway (Maharashtra). SH92 connects the NH48 to the NH66, traversing through villages to give you a view of rural Maharashtra. SH34 is a beautiful, well-maintained hilly stretch running through the Kali Tiger Reserve & Dandeli, the river rafting paradise of west India. NH48 & Mumbai- Pune Expressway are typical highways: wide roads, straight-line driving & limited scenery.

kali tiger reserve, wonder, green belt, smooth road — SH34 | Crossing the Kali Tiger Reserve – A wonderful green belt with smooth roads

nh66, nh48, turn, scenery — After NH66, NH48 was boring. Not many turns, not much scenery…

But this post is about the NH66. On our first stretch (Mumbai to Ganpati Phule), the highway zigzagged through the Western Ghats. It being the monsoon season, the Ghats were lush. We saw more shades of green than we thought existed. So much so, that after a while, our eyes sought colors other than green.

Once we started from Ganpati Phule (till Kannur), we encountered the reason NH66 is considered so highly. We drove parallel to the Indian west coast. We felt the sea breeze.

At places, the Arabian Sea was right beside us. One such place was Maravanthe: to our right was the Arabian Sea & to our left, the Suparnika River. Essentially, we drove on a thin strip of land.

river suparnika, arabian sea — Left: River Suparnika. Right: Arabian Sea

All along the highway were fishing hamlets. We halted just about anywhere & asked for the day’s catch to be cooked for us.

prawn, fish, hamlet, food, gobble, quick, drift — Not really the fishing hamlet food (as we would gobble that up quickly) but you get the drift…

Also pleasing to the eye were the intricately carved & colorfully painted temples. The gopuram of each of them carried gods & goddesses of all kinds, & of more colors than found in a child’s box of crayons.

ornate, design, temple, gopuram, art — Ornate designs on temple gopurams… Hats off to the artist!

There cannot be words better than photographs. So, leaving you with our captures of NH66.

sun, green — We spotted the Sun going down behind a stretch of green…

merge, palm frond, rocks, sea, stand out, architecture, splendor, church, school, temple — Merging like the palm fronds do with the rocks do with the sea Or standing out with our architectural splendor, be it a church, a school or a temple…

contrast, strike, tar, road, shade, green — The contrast could not be more striking The tarred roads Against the many shades of green…

Posted on 09/22/201809/20/2018 by An Ordinary Girl

The Journey, The Traveler

surabhi, dd1, bada imambargah, lucknow, india

What is it about travel that entices me so? Be it global or national; by air or rail; long or short; with family or friends; official or personal – every single time, my eyes light up. It is not just about travel; it is also about the thoughts that rush to me when I travel. This dawned on me during my travel for an engagement to the hinterlands of UP.

When I tumbled my way in the Bolero from Jagdishpur to Lucknow at sunset, there was a smile on my lips. ‘Riding into the sunset’ was the theme in my mind. The roads were neither great nor poor; yet, I was at peace. I had seen rural youth learning skills to become employable. Their sincere faces were etched in my mind. When I closed my eyes, I could visualize them toiling under the hot asbestos roof, trying to make themselves productive. I thought of us, the privileged ones, how we still curse our lives…

symmetry, like, bada imambargah, lucknow, uttar pradesh, india — symmetry to my liking

When I traveled from Raebareli to Lucknow, my thoughts wandered to the video I had seen of the poorest of poor. They strove to make a better life. They fought to overcome the odds. In a land where women are still exploited, harassed and oppressed, it was heartening to see groups of women come together to rise from the ashes. Even at a towering 5’8″, I felt small in front of them.

In Amethi, I stayed at a guesthouse which was austere but the hospitality freaked me out. The cook stuffed us with the tastiest food possible. The tehzeeb, I realized, was not limited to Lucknow alone.

Lucknow brought back a sense of belonging, though, frankly, I did not remember a thing from my childhood. Still, it felt like home. Tunde kebab and kulfi at Aminabad, walk at Hazratganj, sightseeing at Bada Imambargah, crossing Cantt, kulfi at Chhappan Bhog, Chikankari shopping at Chowk, Walk in Ambedkar Park, and kulfi (again!) at Nishatganj – spread over 5 days. Courtesy from the most unexpected of quarters. Masha-Allah! Being disappointed with the ‘sandstonification’ of Lucknow. And still being enchanted with how Laxman ka Teela became Teele wali Masjid!

restore, bada imambargah, lucknow, uttar pradesh, india — much needed restoration work going on…

I had thought that the beauty of Bhutan brought out the poetess and thinker in me. But I realize it happens to me every time I travel somewhere.

History comes alive, Battles of yore resound

The walls conceal mysteries infinite, I realize as I walk up the stone steps;

The India of today, not very different

Similar battles, similar mysteries, I realize as I walk down the stone steps.

Posted on 04/28/201804/26/2018 by An Ordinary Girl · 2 Comments

Beauty in Barrenness

There is such an emphasis on adornment. Cakes are expected to be decorated. Clothes are required to be embellished. Girls are supposed to be ornamented. Presentations are expected to be beautified.

Amidst all these trimmings, we forget about the innate beauty of people, of places, and of things. We do not, for a second, imagine there can be attractiveness in simplicity. In our estimation, a plain Jane cannot be beautiful.

Unless we garnish our dishes and make them look pretty, we are dissatisfied. We purchase knick – knacks to be kept around the house; these will, presumably, make our dwellings worthier.

When we are conditioned thus, it was exciting to find beauty in barrenness. We had had our eyes set on the Rann of Kutch for quite a while. The white salt desert was enticing. We found the miles of nothingness inviting.

But, going to the Rann of Kutch needed time, and we were not getting any holiday which was of more than three days. So, patiently, we waited. October threw up an opportunity and we found ourselves on the path to Gujarat.

Rail journeys have caught our fancy as we realize it is quite convenient to undertake them as long as we can book in advance. And, well, our travel planning is in ADVANCE! So we booked ourselves onto the Ahmedabad – New Delhi Rajdhani and sat back for a comfortable ride.

From Ahmedabad, it took us about four hours to reach Dasada, a hamlet on the edge of the Rann of Kutch. We had booked ourselves at Rann Riders, which turned out to be one of the best places we have stayed at. But, more on that later.

We cannot even begin to describe the beauty of the Rann. And, mind you, we were at the Little Rann of Kutch. The Great Rann of Kutch is supposed to be grander and prettier. We went to the Little Rann for a sunset safari; everything they show in photographs and movies is cent per cent real.

For miles and kilometers and a few more miles, there was nothing except the parched land of the Rann, crusted white due to the salt deposits. This was immediately after the monsoon. We cannot imagine what the land would be like during summer.

At the far end was a lake, on which the Sun was slowly setting. A flight of flamingos brooded on the lake, wondering surely what we humans found so interesting in them. Or, perhaps, they wondered, how after destroying their natural habitats, humans create sanctuaries to ‘protect’ them.

No matter what the flamingos thought, they were a sight to behold. The curved beaks, the pink bodies, the slender legs- all proving, yet again, what a great artist the One above is.

Coming back to the Rann, the precise barrenness was what we found beautiful and calming. We are so used to chaos around us, and the need we feel to be constantly doing something, that these moments, and these spots, where time stands still, are rare.

An international sales conference in progress

We felt at peace with ourselves. We felt one with nature. For our eyes, there was the Sun, mellowing down to a soothing yellow. There was the lake, shimmering against the rays of the Sun. There was the earth, cracked and white, and yet moist underneath.

There were shrubs, providing a splash of green in the somber setting. The only sound around us was the patter of the hooves of the wild asses running around. (The Little Rann of Kutch is home to the Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary.) And, once in a while, when the flamingos took flight, their wings flapped to create a symphony.

The only smell we had was of the dry, salty earth. The only taste we had was the salt on our lips. And the only sensation we had was of pesky insects trying to bite us. But we felt complete. All our happy memories rushed back to us to make us smile.

This one we know. We made friends with one in Jammu and Kashmir.

All our pain disappeared for that moment. And yet, we neither felt great joy nor great sorrow. We just felt peaceful.

The Rann wildlife was another aspect that caught our fancy. We could not imagine a landscape as arid as that supporting any kind of flora and fauna. But, surprise! God must have thought- let me make a few patches of earth unfit for human survival, but let me create a few gorgeous animals who will thrive in the same ecology. Good move God!

Among mammals, you can see the most gorgeous wild asses, nimble desert foxes, shy rabbits, and even more shy nilgais. We are not great at identifying birds but we had some help from our safari guide.

The gorgeous Wild Ass. Not an iota of fear from the hoomans… It knew this was its turf!

You can easily spot ducks, flamingos, and francolins among many others. Of course, they are all wary of human beings, and will fly away the instant you step closer to them.

Lastly, our resort- Rann Riders- was a delight to stay at. We were in the midst of a lush green setting, making us wonder how such verdure could survive the harsh weather condition.

Acres of plants and trees, the names of which we would take a lifetime to find out, surrounded us. Playing hide and seek in these trees were a plethora of animals – dogs, cats, horses, ducks, peacocks, emus, monitor lizards- all living in harmony with each other and with us human beings.

Our dwelling was a little mud hut called ‘kooba’, a typical village house but with modern amenities. We woke up to the sounds of the animals and slept to the gentle hum of the air conditioner. Truly a step in the Eco-tourism direction!

We are all the more determined now to visit the Great Rann of Kutch, but it will have to wait, and also for the winter months. Even October smoldered here…

We suggest a four days, three nights itinerary to the Rann of Kutch and surrounding areas:

Day 1: Arrive in the morning at Ahmedabad. Take a cab to Dasada; you will arrive here by afternoon. Time permitting, take an evening safari of the Little Rann of Kutch. Overnight at the Rann Riders.

Day 2: Take a morning safari of the Little Rann of Kutch. Come back, refresh & head to Modhera & Patan. You can spend the day gaping at the Sun Temple in Modhera and the Rani Ki Vav in Patan. If your pocket allows, indulge in a Patola sari at Patan. Overnight at Rann Riders.

Day 3: After breakfast, checkout & head to Ahmedabad. Try to get to Agashiye for a typical Gujarati Thali. Spend the evening sightseeing through the Sabarmati Ashram & the Sabarmati Riverfront. Overnight at Four Points by Sheraton.

Day 4: Morning will be a great time to check out the Sarkhej Roja. By afternoon/ evening, prepare to leave Ahmedabad.

Posted on 04/13/201804/13/2018 by An Ordinary Girl · 2 Comments

As The Steam Blows

We are travel addicts; and clearly road trip aficionados. But, when another long weekend struck, there was an urge to do something different. So browsing through yet another travel magazine, we chanced upon the must-do rides on heritage trains in India.

Mostly found in the hilly regions, these narrow gauge trains have been running since the colonial times. The British did have a way with finding idyllic spots & connecting them to the heartland. Can’t blame them there!

The closest to Delhi, of course, is Shimla or as the British spelt it, Simla, their summer capital. Thus started the search for a suitable train on the Kalka – Shimla route. There are a number of trains but the best in terms of looks is the Shivalik Deluxe Express while the best in terms of performance is the Himalayan Queen. A train with a twist is the Rail Motor Car which looks & sounds more like a jeep than a train.

20140725_140141 — Our home for a couple of days

We booked ourselves for the onward journey on the Shivalik Deluxe Express and the return on the Himalayan Queen. With that, the Kalka – Shimla route was covered. But, now came the challenge of the Delhi – Kalka stretch. This was an insipid route; all we had to do was to commute.

The main train on this route, the Howrah Kalka Mail, is seldom punctual. We did not want to take our car to Kalka as we would have trouble finding a parking spot for it for three days.

We grudgingly booked the Howrah Kalka Mail for the onward journey and the Kalka Shatabdi for the return. And we waited, impatiently, for the weekend to arrive. A couple of days before our journey, we began checking if the Howrah Kalka was running on time. To our horror, we realized that it had been running with an average delay of 10-12 hours!

20140725_140006 — Surrounded by pine trees

We panicked & started thinking about Plan B. Then it struck us, ever the typical middle-income-group couple, that we could take the bus. Himachal Tourism runs a cool fleet of buses from Delhi to the main cities in Himachal Pradesh.

For Shimla, there is almost a bus an hour. We scrambled to the Himachal Tourism website and heft a sigh of relief when we managed to find a bus at a suitable time on our designated date and booked it quickly.

The website turns out to be quite efficient even though it looks as government – ish as it can. We can select our seats and pay by credit card. Wow! This, of course, was followed by the process of cancelling both our onward tickets.

20140725_140529 — Built by a British engineer sometime in the 1800s

Finally, the wait was over. We headed to Himachal Bhavan near Mandi House to board our bus. Our seat was at the far end with a rowdy bunch of young boys right behind us. A peaceful sleep seemed unlikely. Sigh!

Before we boarded, we wanted to have our favorite food-samosa. Right across the road is a snack shop which serves all kinds of greasy & spicy Indian snacks. We were drawn to it like bees to flowers.

Did you know that samosa is not Indian? It’s a take on a middle-eastern snack called ‘sambusak’. Well! Once we were satiated, we grabbed our seats. A quick checking of tickets took place, & we started moving. Yay!

20140726_124304 — Trust our army to make just anything better!

Getting out of Delhi was, of course, the biggest challenge, especially it being a weekday. It was compounded with the ‘kaawariyas’ & their entourages. Truly, one can do anything in the name of religion. The ‘kaawar yatra’ now is more about occupying the streets, playing LOUD music and creating nuisance, than it is about worshiping Lord Shiva.

We stopped at the Haryana Tourism guest house in Rai for dinner. Just outside the gate, a bike with two riders unfortunately got a little scare by our bus. While we had dinner, our bus driver & conductor tried to provide comfort to them. Nothing had happened to either them or to the bike. But they had a minor heart attack when our big bus and their tiny bike were millimeters apart. Chuckle!

Dinner was a simple fare. We did not want to delay the bus. We observed other families who are carrying their own food. They spread out the food on sheets in the garden. This took us back to school days. The annual picnic, invariably to the botanical garden, was an occasion we looked forward to, though there was barely anything new that we could see year after year.

20140726_144838 — When we walked among clouds

Coming back, we were on our way and soon nodding off as the bus met the highway. The bus itself was in a great condition and there was not an iota of rash driving on the part of the driver.

The seats were comfortable, we were given bottles of water and shown a movie too! Do you support reclining seats? Aren’t they unnecessary and an inconvenience to fellow travelers? The manufacturers think only of the passenger who is going to use the reclining feature. They do not envisage the trouble that the person behind faces.

And we were finally in Shimla! It was early morning, was drizzling and ah, such a beautiful weather! When you are not getting stuck in traffic due to rains or when muddy water is not staining your clothes, then monsoons are just beautiful.

We were soon at the Shimla British Resort, another one of the offbeat places we had come across and booked. History has it that the Resort was the residence of a British engineer.

It got handed down to various people before resting with the current owner, who used to give it out for movie and advertisement shootings. Finally, about five years back, he opened it as a Resort for the public.

The Resort is a set of cottages in themes like British, Danish, & Scottish. Each of the rooms is tastefully done with the decor reminding of the colonial times. Lots of woodwork, lots of English paintings, lots of artifacts dating back to the Raj.

We needed some sleep on a proper bed. So we hid ourselves in our Danish Imperial Room and slipped into dreamland. It was noon by the time we were refreshed. It was time to hit Shimla. We felt like tourists.

A quick peek into Trip Advisor showed the Viceregal House (or now known as the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies) as the #1 attraction. Our Resort arranged a cab for us. The cabbie turned out to be a friendly, simple chap. He told us more about Shimla.

The Viceregal House turned out to be more charming than we imagined. It is a Scottish building and was used by the erstwhile British government as their Viceroy’s retreat. A number of historic meetings have taken place here, particularly related to the Indian independence and the partition.

What happens when you book a honeymoon package

There is a short guided tour for the ground floor. It was completely worth it. After independence, the House became the President’s summer retreat. Later, the President donated it to set up the institute. The Indian flag flies high.

We could not have been happier & more excited- a lovely weather with temperature around 18° C, a colonial building, greenery all around, & lots of history!

Next stop- the Mall Road. Obviously. Duh! Actually, not that obvious; we were hungry and wanted to settle down somewhere to grab a bite. We took a walk on the Mall Road till the Scandal Point. It was foggy; we deserved a cup of something warm.

We narrowed down on Wake & Bake Café. Right opposite the police headquarters, is the small, unassuming café. We were famished; Cappuccino, Cold coffee, Chicken, peppers, chilies & rosemary pizza, Hummus & pita, and Carrot cake hardly seemed adequate. Burp!

The rain did not look like it was done with its daily target, but surprisingly, we quite enjoyed it. Perhaps returning to the warmth of the Resort was what the Gods intend for us. & we had no idea about the surprise waiting for us there.

We had booked a honeymoon package with the Resort. One of the inclusions was a romantic room decoration. Our room looked more wild than romantic. There was an interesting mix of balloons, flowers and leaves.

We could neither stop giggling nor stop shaking our heads. We loved the cheesiness of it. For the decoration, we would give them 5/ 10 but for the effort, full marks! There were also fresh fruits & cookies. We did a little dance around the room.

Marriage indeed brings excitement & happiness to life, in the form of honeymoon packages! The poor Resort staff were disappointed when we asked them to clear the decoration within 15 minutes. But well, there was no place to sit. What could we have done? But guys, loved the enthusiasm. Thank you!

Day 2 started with Annandale. It was Kargil Vijay Diwas – the day India won the Kargil War. It was an absolutely fantastic day to visit the Army Museum. We had asked our friendly cabbie to take us around. He willingly obliged.

We hold the defense forces in high esteem, especially the Indian Army. India is handicapped without them. Those days, there was a flash flood in J&K. The army carried out the rescue operations. J&K citizens, who have called the army all sorts of names & forced them to be withdrawn, now sought its help. It was an eye-opener how the army serves the nation without expecting anything.

The area around the Army Museum is a sight to behold. A greenhouse, a golf course, gardens, and vantage seating points- trust the army to do a great job at whatever they do.

So where was Sharma ji taking us next? (Psst, Sharma ji was our friendly cabbie.) We planned to head to Mashobra & Naldehra. The destinations were unimportant; it was the journey that held value.

Difficult to imagine this when we live in metros

Winding roads, picturesque play of the mountains and valleys- it seemed we were in a picture postcard. We have come to Shimla earlier, but have never felt so contented with this region.

The Mashobra apple orchard was completely covered in clouds. The walk up to the Naldehra golf course did not seem too appealing, especially with the drizzle. But we were more than satisfied with the journey to the two places.

We headed back to our Resort for the second offering of the honeymoon package- a candlelit dinner. They arranged it for us in the small outhouse cottage. This was NICE!

& here was the last day. The day which was the reason for this trip. We were set to experience the UNESCO heritage train ride from Shimla to Kalka. The station is a stone’s throw from the Resort.

We clicked photographs with the train in the backdrop. We made a spectacle of ourselves; people gaped at us, but we were too excited to care. We realized that the seat which is supposed to be for two is really just one & a half. Well, two thin people maybe! It was good in a way as we sat cozily with each other.

The rowdy boys from our bus were on the adjacent seat. We rolled our eyes. The train was choc-a-bloc full. It was a tiny thing with almost no space for luggage. So do ensure you do not board the train with either large bags or with too many bags.

The train pulled out from the station. Thus started a beautiful journey. We traveled through lush-green mountains, through almost 900 bridges and 100 tunnels in a weather that was pleasant.

It rained; we hurriedly closed our windows, but the water found its way in anyhow. People opened their umbrellas. Yes. In the train. The family behind us was lamenting throughout. But we found it amusing, rather than annoying.

The train brought us closer to nature. There were tiny stations along the way, with white cottages & blue roofs for stations, leaping right out of Malgudi Days. This was surely going to remain etched in our memories for as long as we lived…

The train has a decent speed, about 40 kmph. It halts at Kalka from where the broad gauge starts. We boarded the Kalka Shatabdi which fascinated us in another manner. The train was spotless, the air-conditioning worked marvelously, the seats were comfortable, the food was good, and the service was impeccable.

Soon, we were home. Our first heritage train ride had been memorable in more ways than one. Spotting & counting tunnels, a beautiful resort, soothing greenery all around, a salubrious weather, patriotic emotions, a candlelit dinner, & for the first time, liking Shimla…

We recommend an itinerary for four days, three nights:

Delhi – Shimla – Chail – Delhi

Day 0: Depart from Delhi by bus/ train.

Day 1: Arrive early morning at Shimla. Spend the day sightseeing specially Annandale, Indian Institute of Advanced Study, & The Ridge. Spend the night at Shimla British Resort.

Day 2: Hire a vehicle to take you to Mashobra/ Naldehra. Enjoy the journey! Night at Shimla British Resort.

Day 3: Checkout and head to Chail (a 2-hour drive). Check in at HPTDC The Chail Palace. Take a walk around and experience the former summer capital of the princely state of Patiala at its best.

Day 4: After an early breakfast, head to the Shimla railway station (2 hours again) to catch the trains back to Delhi

Recommended time to visit: Pretty much all through the year. It may snow during winter; so be prepared for the cold!

Recommended eats: Fruit chaat, Butter bun & Tea, Gol gappa

Recommended buys: Woolens, Handcrafted antiques, Tibetan floor coverings

P.S. The train bookings were done almost 3 months in advance. We kept a lookout on the ARS.

Posted on 03/19/201803/20/2018 by An Ordinary Girl · 2 Comments

My Balcony in the Mountains

How we want our life to be – being able to hit the road every alternate weekend. And it has happened in the past; so why not cross our fingers for the future too? Soon after we returned from Kishangarh, we prepared to head to Nathuakhan, a small borough near Nainital in Uttarakhand, India.

Barely two weeks had passed. We had not even unpacked. (We brought ‘living out of a suitcase’ to life.) But it was sheer luck that we were getting long weekends in such quick succession. We wanted to make the best of it.

Going through yet another backdated issue of Outlook Traveler, the name of Bob’s Place sprung up. We Googled it. It fell completely in line with our idea of a holiday. A cottage in a small village, views of the Himalayas, away from crowds, home-cooked food, and no compulsion to do anything. So we got going.

Sloped Roofs, Bricked Masonry, Well-Built Cottages

We had been to Kumaon quite a few times in the last one year. We knew which turn to take, which road to avoid, where to stop for bio breaks etc. We left on time but could not ditch the Ghaziabad – Hapur traffic.

We cursed our way to the highway which was a mix of gliding & bumping over potholes. Oh the things we do for travel! During our previous trip, we found out about a road via Camry that traversed villages but was at least pothole-free. We gave it a shot.

It was definitely better. It was still relatively unknown. There was less traffic. The roads had managed to stay in good condition. To take this route, first-timers will most definitely have to ask around.

Not Nipping It In The Bud! Announcing The Arrival Of Spring…

Once we entered Uttarakhand, Rudrapur onwards, the roads were in good condition. Soon, we had a narrow road, flanked by trees on both sides, giving a natural shade. It was on these roads that we could finally put our guard down.

We noticed pink guavas by the roadside and bought a few. I had never eaten a pink guava. I was thrilled. Then I was disappointed; because the pink guavas were tasteless. They would taste fine with salt I guessed.

We alternated between the radio, CD and phone. We could not sit in a car without listening to music. We read the slogans and couplets written behind trucks and admired the profound wisdom our countrymen could share with us.

The Tiny Dining Room Lit Up In Yellow – Very, Very Inviting

We found WelcomHeritage Bob’s Place on GPS and followed it till the point where we felt compelled to ask. We were told we had come to an alternate route. We could return about 20 kms and then take the correct route or we could continue on the alternate route.

The alternate route was ‘full of stones’ for 4 kms, and could scrape the bottom of the car, but we were assured we could manage. So we carried on. And it turned out to be an adventure of a trip.

The first few kms were fine. We thought we had been scared unnecessarily. Then, it hit us. For a good 4 kms, there was no road. ‘Full of stones’ was a generous description. It was a dust path covered by rocks and pebbles.

Cobbled Steps, Shrubs & Vines – Isn’t It Right Out Of An English Classic?

It was maneuverable as we were going downhill. The rocks did not scrape the bottom but they did cut our tires. For the 4 kms, we were silent, taking long breaths, and praying for this to end quickly. Mercifully, it was 4 kms, neither more nor less.

After this stretch, the road returned. What we advise – once you reach Bhowali, ask around for the route to be taken for Nathuakhan. Do not follow the GPS blindly. On hilly terrains, GPS proved to be inaccurate for the second time for us.

The good old GPS-the rickshaw guy, the vegetable vendor, the traffic police personnel – still worked, irrespective of the surroundings! Remember you would need to cross Ramgarh to get to Nathuakhan. If you have not crossed Ramgarh, you are on the wrong road buddy!

According To The Locals, Summer Had Arrived. Flowers Had Started Wilting!

After our mini adventure, we reached Nathuakhan. Bob’s Place was just a little ahead of the village ‘chowk’. It was on the road that led to Almora, Ranikhet, Kausani and Binsar, and had large red iron gates to welcome you.

A courteous staff member welcomed us and offered us a selection of rooms. Visiting places off-season gives us the benefit of being the only guests, and the luxury of choosing any room we desire.

Bob’s Place had standalone cottages erected in a multi-level manner. The highest ones commanded a view of snow-clad peaks of the Himalayas. The lower ones had sit-out areas but the view got diminished by the foliage.

Who Wouldn’t Like To Have A Breakfast With Such A View?

We chose one of the higher rooms. It had a balcony which gave us breathtaking views and was especially delightful during sunrises and sunsets. The wooden cottage had a fireplace, a blanket and a heater-we knew we were in good hands.

Oh! I did not mention the cold that greeted us. By March-end, most of north India starts burning. We, thus, did not expect it to be cold at the end of March but there was a definite need for light woolens. We were glad we carried the same.

Cold weather adds a tremendous amount of beauty to any place. When you are not sweating and protecting your eyes from the sun, you can enjoy your surroundings much more. When you are not looking for water every five minutes, you can soak in the calm and quiet better. Ah! Winters, come back soon!

Did I see a face in that window? Naah! It’s just us here. Wait! What? 😀

This holiday was more for us to relax. So all we did in these two days was eat, sleep, read, write, listen to music and watch the sky change colors.

The food was prepared at the cottage and did not taste any different from what we eat at home. The ‘poha’ we had for breakfast was quite different though, and wonderfully so. It was made with ‘khada garam masala’. People who have eaten the Indian-style meat can imagine how good this tastes. The ‘masala chai’ was free-flowing too. Special mention of the chicken fry we got as our finale dinner. Do ask for it when you head to Bob’s Place.

For those who like their poison on-the-go, Nathuakhan has a country liquor store with few English brands available. So, if you have superior tastes or are fussy, I suggest you carry your alcohol.

Being The Only Guest Meant We Could Trespass Freely…

On our first night here, we were shivering. The fireplace in the room looked inviting. Soon after it was lit, we were sweating. We had covered ourselves with a quilt. The fire was proving too hot to handle!

On top of that, we were apprehensive that we were breathing carbon monoxide. We might not survive to see the morning. If that did not happen, then something in the room would catch fire. It being made of wood, we would be roasted alive.

We laid awake for long staring at the fire, then threw open the door to let the CO out. The fire died soon after. We finally slept…

Just before dawn, we crept to the door hoping to find a leopard/ panther sprawled on the balcony. We did find something; something from the feline family itself. A fat golden cat! It was lounging on the sofa to ward off the cold. We wish we get to see a leopard/ panther up close and personal soon.

The mountains got our creative juices flowing. We sat in the balcony, took a long look at the Himalayas, sighed at the sky that turned from orange to pink to purple to black, and got started on our post about Kishangarh.

We were both hooked onto our Bose SoundLink Mini. That tiny thing is as good as a home theater system. It is perfect for travel. The SoundLink fits into the palm of a hand. Once fully charged, it can play for almost two days. And the sound quality is fantastic – clarity & volume both. The SoundLink gets connected via both Bluetooth and USB. It has surely been a worthy purchase!

The Changing Colors Never Fail To Amaze Us

Our favorites were songs from Queen and Highway. We curled up on the couch and listened to Sooha SA and Kinaare…

There were a number of walking trails nearby. The staff offered to guide us but we were not in a mood to move our limbs. We tried throwing darts on the dartboard. It looked like a simple thing but after three throws, none of which even hit the board, our arms hurt. We have respect for this seemingly simple sport.

The staff was plentiful, courteous and ready to help with pretty much anything. We had a dedicated guy who we found out was from Madhubani. He had worked at Bob’s Place for almost eight years then. He liked it here. The weather was good 🙂 All of us who live in the plains would never think twice about saying yes to the hills. He was soft-spoken and told us quite a bit about the surrounding regions.

Holidays always end sooner than anticipated. And it was time for us to head back. But so we did with our mind, body and soul rejuvenated. We think we can recommend an itinerary for five days, four nights for Kumaon:

Delhi- Dhanachuli- Nathuakhan- Delhi

Day 1: Depart from Delhi early and arrive at Dhanachuli by tea time. Spend the night at Te Aroha exploring the premises, specially the library, playing the piano and sipping ‘something’ on the balcony

Day 2: Have a day excursion/ trek to Mukteshwar. On a clear day, a lot of peaks are visible. If you are the religious kinds, say a quick prayer at the Shiva temple; it is one of the ‘Shakti peeths’.

Day 3: Checkout late and head to Nathuakhan. Check in at Bob’s Place. Get the fireplace going in the lounge and browse the innumerable books kept there

Day 4: After breakfast, head to Almora and/ or Ranikhet and spend the day soaking in the beauty of the British-established hill stations. Or go for one of the hill walks. Back to Bob’s for a chicken fry dinner

Day 5: Checkout and head back to Delhi

Recommended time to visit: Pretty much all through the year. It snows during winter, so be prepared to get trapped and enjoy more days of vacation!

Recommended eats: Poha & Chicken Fry at Bob’s Place

Recommended buys: Shawls, herbs and pine needle decorations from Kilmora; Fruit spreads from Himjoli; Rhododendron juice

Soon back with a Garhwali taste. Till then, sip the rhododendron you folks!

Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 4

The Residency

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Deep Dive India

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Accommodation

Rating

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Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 2

Vidhan Bhavan

Sharma Ji Ki Chai

Christ Church

Saint Joseph’s Cathedral

Shahnajaf Imambara

Sikandar Bagh

Hazratganj Market

Royal Café

Habibullah Estate

Cherry Tree Café

Chhatar Manzil

Farhat Baksh Kothi

La Martiniere College

Roastery Coffee House

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Are You in Lucknow? Again?? – Part 1

Getting There

The First Evening

Janeshwar Mishra Park

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The Mughal’s Dastarkhwan

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Baghaan Orchard Retreat

First Visit (2015)

Second Visit (2020)

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Mango Tree Resort (2022)

First Day

Second Day

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Summary

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About Devprayag

Day One

Trivia

Kanha Farms

Day Two

Day Three

Waterfall

Pilgrimage

Raghunathji Mandir

Sangam

Day Four

Danda Nagraja Mandir

Bird Watching

Angling

Day Five

Lansdowne Trip Travel Café

Accommodation Recommendation & Review

Banyan by The Ganges

Our Two Cents

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Kaee Contemporary

The Bridge

Chowman

Bharat Taxi

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Architecture

Our Architecture Destination Pick

Culture

Our Culture Destination Pick

Events

Our Events Destination Pick

Food