Now that you’ve read about my Day One & Day Two in Lucknow, you can read a detailed account of my 3rd day.
Today was the highlight of my trip to Lucknow. I was slated to attend the Mahindra Sanatkada Lucknow Festival (MSLF). My friend D was showcasing her silver jewelry brand, Daayita, & I was there to support her morally.
The Festival was to begin at 11 AM but I, being an early riser, was already up & about by 9. I thus chose to spend some time at Dilkusha Kothi, another of those lesser known attractions that my cabbie did not know about.
Dilkusha Kothi is in the cantonment area. Its entrance was wrongly pinned on Google Maps. It took me a couple of turns & finally asking a local before I could get to the gate. The gate too was chained & I had to ask again if entry was allowed.
Anyway, Dilkusha Kothi was another stunner that I am glad I got to visit. Magnificent is an inadequate term for it. It is historically important as it was destroyed during the First War of Independence.
Interestingly, Dilkusha Kothi was built by a British even though it was a hunting lodge for the Nawab. This explains its Baroque style, rather than an Indo – Islamic style. As with most other heritage structures in Lucknow, this too is constructed with lime mortar & Lakhauri bricks.
There is also a mansion adjacent to the Dilkusha Kothi, built in an Indo-European style. Both the buildings are set amidst lush gardens. Despite being a ruin, it still has a regal air. The Archeological Survey of India have restored it.
I was moved by its sight, for the events that took place here reminded me of the travails that our ancestors had faced.
Mahindra Sanatkada Lucknow Festival
I still had some time to kill before I could make my way to MSLF. The internet showed me Buttercup Bungalow (six minutes away) would be open for a cup of coffee but when I got there, I came to know that it had moved to Gomti Nagar.
I whiled away a few more minutes clicking pictures of the kitschy interiors of Cappuccino Blast & finally headed to MSLF which takes place at the Safed Baradari (3 kms from Cappuccino Blast).
The Safed Baradari has a Mughal architecture & is given out for public gatherings. It was initially constructed to be used as an Imambara. It was used for meetings during the First War of Indian Independence.
In the main hall of the Safed Baradari, I saw two statues – of Maharaja Mansingh & Digvijay Singh of Balrampur. Several movies have been shot here. The heritage structure does exude an old – world grandeur.
MSLF is held not just at the Safed Baradari but also at another historical monument called Salempur House. I find it difficult to not stop whenever I pass in front of history! Always the stories are more & the time, less. Always!
The theme of the 2023 MSLF was Raqs-o-Mausiqi. The Awadhi dance & music traditions are explored in depth through the festival. Awadh is the land of Thumri & Khayal, of Kathak, and of Sozkhwani & Marsiyakhwani!
In the MSLF, there are indigenous musical & dance performances as well as an experiential exhibition on the theme. It also has heritage walks to explore the unknown facets of Lucknow. I had signed up for a walk the next day & was quite excited for it.
MSLF also has craft stalls, a food festival, talks, films, & workshops. 100+ artisans & weavers display their crafts.
I was fortunate to attend the Home Cooked Food Festival where Lucknow’s hidden culinary treasures became exposed – pulao, aloo – gosht, mustard fish, dhaage wale kabab… Toothsome!
This food festival is an annual outing for the home chefs of Lucknow. The number of participating chefs has increased over the years. In fact, participating here is considered an honor. While I love Awadhi cuisine available in the restaurants, I found the home – cooked fare splendid!
It was crazy to see the queue to buy tokens for food at the Home Cooked Food Festival. D had warned me about it, but I was still taken aback. It was only thanks to the regulars that I managed to get a token!
I saw a couple of live performances. It was heartening to see cultural admirers come together as a community. I also saw an equal space being given to the LGBTQ+ community. By the end of the day, I was exhausted but also exuberant that I got to participate in the cultural & heritage celebration of Lucknow.
March is that time of the year when the bitter cold has ended but the merciless Delhi Sun is still at least a month away. Being the winter lovers that we are, we wanted to hold back a slice of the frost & this made us think of Himachal Pradesh over the 2019 Holi long weekend. Mashobra had been on our radar for ages. So, why not?
We took the Shatabdi to Chandigarh. After road, train is our preferred transport mode. From Delhi, places like Ajmer, Bhopal, Dehradun, Himachal Pradesh, & Uttarakhand get good connectivity.
It took us barely four hours to reach Chandigarh. We had booked a MyChoize self-drive from Chandigarh. Over the last couple of years, our best discovery & adoption have been of self-drive car rentals in India.
Rather than abandoning destinations because they are too far or because they do not have proper connectivity or rather than depending on local taxis, this is a much better alternative.
We have tried many self-drive service providers till now but MyChoize & Revv have come up tops among all. The company guy delivered the car to us at the Chandigarh railway station, checked our papers, completed the formalities & handed over the car to us. The entire process would have taken 15 minutes at most.
We then drove from Chandigarh from Mashobra halting at HPTDC The Pinewood, Barog for lunch. The hotel was on the highway with ample parking available. It had a nice garden. The building was reminiscent of the British Raj.
It was drizzling which added to the ambience. The Chicken Masala & Mutton Biryani were delectable & adequate in portion.
We then continued to Mashobra. We had booked Khanabadosh for our stay; more on it later.
The First Evening
It was evening by the time we reached. As we were in a village called Purani Koti in Mashobra, there was not much to do once the Sun set. Moreover, we had had an early start to the day; so, we were happy to lounge in the cosy living room of our home-stay.
We had not expected the chill to hit us; so, we were happy to sit next to a blower & sip on warm tea. Geetika, the friendly owner of Khanabadosh had kept her home & hearth warm. Blankets, blowers & shawls strewn here & there helped us ward off the chill.
We scoured the well-stocked library to find something suitable to read. A house with books is a house we love! Geetika gave us company in the evening. We chatted away until the real owners turned up – Sultan & Gabbar. Being dog lovers, we were pleased as punch to greet the two Golden Retrievers.
The evening culminated in a dainty dinner served by the warm Kalam Singh, fondly called Pen Singh.
The First Full Day
The cold did not go away in the morning but became bearable. We stepped out of the warm cottage gingerly. The garden was full of colorful flowers, a Buddha statue & knickknacks. A wreath donned the front door. Christmas feels!
Geetika shared with us the concept of Khanabadosh. It is a wandering house. Every three years, she packs up her bags & moves to a new destination. Our dream life… Sigh!
We basked in the Sun while cuddling with the two pooches but soon managed to tear ourselves away from them & stepped out for a walk. There are umpteen forest trails near Khanabadosh but be ready to huff & puff.
We chose a trail that took us through an unforgettable pine forest. It was not really marked; more of finding our own paths & guessing which turns to take. Clearings in the forests brought spectacular vistas which made the huffing & puffing worthwhile.
We spotted a blue sky, a cat, birds, children playing cricket, lots of greenery, our first Weeping Willow, village folks at work, & wildflowers! We have heard people ask – “What’s there to do in the mountains?” We agree. The whole point of mountains is you do nothing; just surrender yourself to nature…
On turning back, we opted for the road instead of the forest trail. Purani Koti was exactly our kind of place! Few people, more animals… But we are cognizant of the problems remote areas bring.
It is easy to get enchanted as a sightseer, but different to live there!
After the tiring walk, we recharged our batteries with an expedition to Fagu & Theog. We drove on till Theog, turned back & halted at Fagu for lunch. We were first surprised, then thrilled to see snow on the mountainsides in March – end!
Charles Dickens has captured March well – “It was one of those March days when the sun shines hot and the wind blows cold: when it is summer in the light, and winter in the shade.” Anyhow, the snow transformed Fagu into a magical world.
The crisp spring air did us good. We stopped at HPTDC The Apple Blossom, Fagu for tea. It had an excellent location & ample parking. The hotel gave a ~360-degree view of the Himalayas.
While we waited for tea, we walked around taking in the snowy sights. The tea was good too! We chose to have lunch at a roadside kiosk & returned to Khanabadosh for more doggo love!
The Second Full Day
For a change, we woke up to see the sunrise. Purani Koti was yet to come to life but little birds were up & about. The feathered creatures were proving the saying ‘The early bird catches the worm’.
Sultan & Gabbar had stirred too & were off on their morning walk with Kalam Singh.
Later in the day, we headed to Chail. Kufri, as usual, was a mess. Dirty & overcrowded! We still do not understand what fun tourists derive from riding mules!
Once we crossed Kufri, we began to spot the snow-capped Himalayas. This mountain range has been our source of happiness for decades. Every time we visit the Himalayas, we understand better how people become spiritually enlightened here.
Our first stop was HPTDC The Chail Palace – a childhood favorite! The humble Palace holds its charm. The green lawn outside is a perfect spot for tea while sunbathing. The opulent interiors are full of artifacts of the bygone era. Time travel!
We had Hot Buttered Rum in the Royal Bar followed by lunch at the palace restaurant. The Fruit Cream & Saag Mutton were appetizing. The service was great. Lunch time is crowded as day visitors drop in. Plan your day/ time accordingly.
In the past, we have stayed in the Maharani Suite & in the log huts. The Maharani Suite, of course, was exceptional. We would love to return for another stay.
Our next stop was the Chail Cricket Ground. It is the highest cricket ground in the world, but we doubt regular matches are played here. It is inside a cantonment area; you’ve to fill in your details in a register to enter. & the moment you step inside the cantonment, smooth roads appear. The Cricket Ground, unfortunately, can be seen only from its gate.
On our way back to Mashobra, we spotted snowy peaks & rhododendrons. The Himalayas are our happy place! The drive to Theog & Chail had been appealing. Soulful music added to the allure!
The Last Morning
Morning scenes made our hearts grow fonder of Mashobra. Sultan came up to say a sad goodbye while Gabbar showed his anger by keeping his back towards us. I so miss these beautiful doggies… Sadly, Sultan died this February. Now, Bruce Lee gives company to Gabbar.
We drove back to Chandigarh stopping at Falcon Cafe Lounge, Panchkula for lunch. The lounge had a relaxed vibe. There was a birthday party going on but because it was a separate area, it did not trouble us.
The Arabic Hummus Chicken Sandwich, Juicy Chicken Burger, Paan Ice cream & The Great Chocolate Shake were good. The service was great too.
At the Chandigarh Railway Station, we returned our MyChoize vehicle & caught the Shatabdi to come back to Delhi NCR.
When researching accommodation options for Mashobra, we were torn between Khanabadosh & Mahasu House. The latter was tried & tested by friends, & highly recommended, but the former had doggies! That clinched the deal for us.
Being frequent travelers, Khanabadosh was out of our budget, but Geetika was generous & gave us a discount; we adjusted some too. We knew then that we had made the right choice as things started falling in place.
All our interaction took place on email. Geetika was prompt & clear in her answers. She kept in touch with us till the day we traveled. On our actual travel day, we used Google Maps without any hassle to reach Khanabadosh.
Geetika’s home was a ground + 2 expansive yet cosy building made of stones, reminding you of the English countryside mansions you read about in childhood. A quick tour, a warm chai, & scores of conversations quickly made us feel at ease.
Of course, we were dying to meet the pooches – Gabbar & Sultan. What affectionate rascals they turned out to be! Gabbar, the naughty one, kept us regaled throughout with its antics. While Sultan taught us the meaning of love all over again.
Over the next couple of days, Geetika gave us great ideas on where to go & what to eat.
Our post would be incomplete without a mention of Kalam Singh – the pocket-sized dynamite who fed us till we exploded, & still had a long face we did not eat enough. Isn’t that the feeling you’ve at home? Not for a moment we felt we were in a stranger’s house.
Nothing we say about Kalam Singh’s culinary skills (or managing skills) would do justice. We hogged on parathas, omelettes, chicken, fish, & myriad kinds of vegetables.
If you like bird watching, you can keep an eye out in the garden of Khanabadosh around sunrise. We saw many little feathered creatures. The decor was outstanding. Geetika has painstakingly collected artifacts from her travels. These gave a richness to her home without ever seeming ‘too much’.
Shawls were kept here & there if you suddenly felt a chill. A bowl full of chocolates at the door ensured we gained a few pounds, as if Kalam Singh’s food were not enough.
Our room was comfortable with enough blankets & a heater. Khanabadosh is a home-stay in the truest sense. It is Geetika’s home & she has opened it to strangers. Moreover, Khanabadosh welcomes animals & birds too. Yes, it is pet-friendly!
We cannot wait to visit Khanabadosh again at its new location.
Tips For Visiting
Chandigarh to Mashobra is 122 KMS & took us ~five hours with stopovers.
Mashobra is barely 10 KMS away from Shimla yet has a completely different character. Instead of staying in the bustling Shimla city, make Mashobra your base. You can easily visit Chail, Fagu, Naldera, Shimla, Shoghi & Theog from here.
Mashobra is a sleepy little town. Please do not expect ‘touristy’ activities here. Instead, expect a lot of calm & nature.
If you like hiking/ walking & bird watching, then Mashobra is the place for you.
Mashobra gets snowfall in winter. For the winter chill & snowy magic, go from October to March. But even during the rest of the year, the weather is pleasant.
Mashobra can be reached via –
Jubbarhatti airport, Shimla
Kalka Railway Station
Shimla bus stand
Well connected by National Highway 5
Please be prepared for patchy connectivity. Disconnect!
Do not feed the wild animals & birds.
Help Us Help You!
If you liked reading our blog post, please consider leaving us a donation so that we continue to travel & write posts that help you plan your travels.