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The Marvellous Sun Temple of Modhera

The Marvellous Sun Temple of Modhera

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For some reason, I felt like writing about the Modhera Sun Temple. I’d visited in 2014 but the call to write about it came strongly today. I guess it’s what you call a culture/ heritage/ religious pull.

We were on a trip to the Little Rann of Kutch wherein we also managed to visit Rani ki Vav, Modhera & Ahmedabad. You can read our other posts from this trip here & here.

Modhera was our second destination during the Gujarat trip. The Sun Temple is situated on the banks of the River Pushpawati in the Mehsana district. As the name suggests, it was dedicated to the Hindu God ‘Surya’ i.e., the Sun God.

The Temple was probably built during the reign of the Solanki king Bhimdev I (1022-63 AD). From the architectural point of view, it is a supremely excellent example among the temples built in the Solanki style in Gujarat.

Built on a single axis on a raised platform, the Sun Temple of Modhera has mainly three parts:

  • Garbha Griha – the sanctum sanctorum with a circumambulation path, and a pavilion which form the main part of the temple.
  • Sabha Mandap – a separate assembly pavilion with an ornate arch in front
  • Surya Kund – a pond made of stones in which many small and big sized temples are built.

Garbha Griha

In the Griha, beautifully carved stone pillars have been erected in an octagonal plan which provide support to the ornate arches. There are niches all around on the outer walls of the pavilion in which idols of 12 Adityas, Dikpalas, Goddesses and Apsaras are installed.

Unique carvings adorn the base & walls of the Garbha Griha. A must – see carving is Surya, the Sun God, in a standing position, being driven by His seven horses. The doorway too has carvings of Surya surrounded by dancers & ardent couples.

In contrast, the walls inside the Griha are not decorated. But the sanctum sanctorum is a marvel. It is designed in a way that the first rays of the rising Sun lit up the image of the idol on the equinox days.

On summer solstice, the Sun shines directly above the temple at noon, casting no shadow. Wow! Unfortunately, the Garbha Griha does not have an idol anymore.

Sabha Mandap

The Sabha Mandap is also called the Nritya Mandap. So, it was either used for assemblies or for dances. It is built in an angular plan & is equipped with beautiful pillars. 52 intricately carved pillars represent 52 weeks of the year.

There is a semi-circular decorated arch for entry into the Mandap from all four main directions. There is a big archway in front of it.

Surya Kund

Right in front of the Sabha Mandap is a rectangular pond, which is called ‘Surya Kund’ or ‘Ram Kund’ by the local people. To reach the water level of the pond, platforms and stairs have been built all around it.

108 small temples have been built on these platforms & stairs which are dedicated to Gods and Goddesses like Goddess Sheetalamata, Ganesha, Shiva, Sheshayi Vishnu, and others.

On to more practical aspects, the Modhera Sun Temple was spotlessly clean & well – maintained. There were adequate signboards and historical references. There were no touts, only ASI – approved guides.

The guides too were not the pestering kinds. They would ask you only once if you wanted their service. If you said no, they would quietly move away to the next set of travellers. We were so pleased with their professionalism; we ended up engaging one. And don’t regret it one bit.

The Sun Temple radiates positivity. Roaming around it, I felt calm even though my imagination & senses were fully engaged. I now hope that I get the call from the Temple to visit during the Modhera Dance Festival.

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