I wrap up my City of Joy series with this last post sharing a four – day itinerary for Kolkata. KOL is a getaway for those who enjoy art, architecture, culture, food & heritage.
Detailed descriptions & reviews of each of the attractions are given in my earlier blog posts.
Have an early lunch & gear up for quite a bit of walking.
Drive to the Victoria Memorial Hall. The gardens & museum are open till 5 PM. So, take your time to see each & every artefact, & to roam around in the glorious gardens.
Walk to the Saint Paul’s Cathedral next door (~10 minutes). It is open till 6 PM.
Have dinner at any of the iconic restaurants in Park Street – Flury’s/ Mocambo/ Trincas/ Moulin Rouge/ Peter Cat (~15 minutes)
Call it a night at your hotel.
Day 2
After an early breakfast, drive to the Mother House. It opens at 8 AM. Spend some time in meditation at the Mother’s Tomb.
Head to the Howrah Bridge (~30 minutes) & do an end – to – end walk on it. Enjoy the quintessential yellow taxis plying on the Bridge.
Take a lunch break.
Visit the Dakshineswar Kali Mandir (~45 minutes from Howrah Bridge). Take your time to complete the darshan & then see all the pilgrimage spots within the premises.
Make your way to the Belur Math by either boat or car (~15 minutes).
At Belur Math, spend some time meditating at the Sri Ramakrishna Mandir. Then, walk around the campus to see all the other temples & holy spots.
End your evening with some fun at one of the many bars in Kolkata.
Return to your accommodation.
Day 3
After breakfast, drive to the Jorasanko Thakur Bari, the ancestral home of Rabindranath Tagore. It opens at 10:30 AM. Gurudev is the star of Bengal Renaissance. Spend at least two hours here to know more about Tagore’s life.
Take a lunch break.
Head to the Birla Mandir (~40 minutes from Jorasanko Thakur Bari). It opens at 4:30 PM. Enjoy seeing the magnificent architecture.
Visit the Prinsep Ghat (~25 minutes). Walk & click your way through the Prinsep Memorial & the Prinsep Ghat Station. Then work off that lunch by taking a long walk on the Prinsep Ghat. Closer to sunset, take a boat ride & enjoy the sun going down while you’re cruising on the Ganges.
Return to your accommodation & spend the night at leisure.
Day 4
After breakfast, check out from your accommodation & drive to Gallery Sanskriti & Kaee Contemporary. These open at 11 AM. Spend time understanding the art on display.
Take a lunch break & then head to the airport.
Accommodation Recommendation
Fairfield By Marriott
I’d a great time at Fairfield. The location was perfect – not far from either the airport or the heart of the city. All amenities were taken care of. Both Kava & Vertex were a foodie/ drinker’s delight. Sunipa at Kava took great care of me & arranged a special dinner too for me, so that I could taste Bengali cuisine.
My room had a first-class view of the Biswa Bangla Gate & the Newtown skyline. My only peeve was that the hotel allowed guests in the swimming pool without proper swimwear. I wanted to use to the pool but got disgusted seeing men in their underwear using the pool, instead of swimming trunks.
While we like to maximise our trips with as much sightseeing as we can, we don’t believe in overdoing it. We recommend the same – don’t treat sightseeing as a competition or a checklist.
So, even if you don’t manage to see a few of the above, it’s okay. It’s more important to enjoy yourself. Happy sightseeing!
You’ve read about my Day Three in Kolkata; now read a detailed account of my 4th & last day.
The Goddesses & Swamis wanted me to visit their abodes. The rain took a break & I made a voyage to the Dakshineswar Kali Mandir, a Hindu navratna temple.
From there, Alam bhai drove me to the Belur Math, the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math & Ramakrishna Mission. After the hustle bustle of Dakshineswar Mandir, the Math was an oasis of calm!
As soon as I stepped out of Belur & sat in the cab, it began to rain again! I’d planned to visit the Eco Park but had to drop that. Instead, I headed back to the hotel, packed, partook of the lunch buffet & checked out.
On the way to the airport, I stopped at Mishti Hub (read review here). Lounging at the Vistara lounge & then being pampered in the business class brought to an end a fabulous trip!
Dakshineswar Kali Mandir
Dakshineswar Kali Mandir has a spiritual & a socio-political history. In the early 1800s, Dakshineswar was a small village before Rani Rashmoni, a devout believer of Goddess Kali, built the Mandir here.
The night before Rani Rashmoni was to leave for Varanasi to worship Goddess Kali, she had a dream. In her dream, the Mother Goddess asked her to build a temple near the river Ganges rather than going all the way to Varanasi.
And so, the Dakshineswar Mandir came into existence. The mystic sage and reformer Ramakrishna Paramahansa and his wife Sarada Devi are also associated with it.
Sri Ramakrishna’s elder brother, Ramkumar Chattopadhayay, was appointed the head priest. Sarada Devi stayed south of the music room, which is now a shrine dedicated to her.
Rani Rashmoni wanted the Kali Mandir to be open to people from all sects of the society, something that holds till date.
To enter the main Dakshineswar complex, I needed to deposit my cell phone & shoes. A nominal fee was charged for the same. I then got confused regarding the mask mandate because everyone I saw in the security line was wearing a mask.
I contemplated taking back my shoes & returning to the cab to get my mask. While I was wandering around in the larger complex thinking my course of action, I realised that I was mistaken – there was no mask mandate!
Thus, after a security check, I entered the Mandir complex & immediately gasped at the spectacle in front of me. The main temple is glorious! I took my time walking around & admiring the brill architecture.
I queued up to enter the Dakshineswar Kali Mandir & after a bit of pushing & shoving Indian style, I was in front of the idols of Goddess Kali & Lord Shiva. They are standing on a lotus made out of silver.
Having bowed my head, I exited towards the 12 small Shiva temples facing the Dakshineswar Mandir. These are constructed in the typical Bengal architecture style. A Radha Krishna temple is also located here.
In spite of the chaos that usually surrounds Hindu temples, I manage to find my sense of calm in them. I roamed around the Kali Mandir premises & even in the middle of the hustle bustle, I felt alone. Alone, not lonely!
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Rating: 4.5 out of 5.
Belur Math
There’s a convenient boat ride from Dakshineswar Kali Mandir to Belur Math. Boats ferry frequently & for a reasonable fee. But as I’d a dedicated cab, I went to Belur by that.
The Math is the core of the Ramakrishna movement & was an oasis of calm. Alam Bhai dropped me at the gate from where it was a nice, serene walk with different Math buildings on both the sides of the walkway.
Unfortunately, the Ramakrishna Museum was closed due to it being a Sunday.
Sri Ramakrishna Mandir
So, I proceeded to the Sri Ramakrishna Mandir which resembles a temple, a mosque, & a church, if seen from different angles. Its facade has Buddhist influences. The central dome has Renaissance architecture influence.
The Mandir is built of chunar stone. Inside, pillars in a line on both sides are in the Greek style. The hanging balconies are in the Mughal style. On top of the Temple is a golden kalash with a lotus below.
I sat inside & meditated for some time. Thoughts of my mausa (uncle) kept popping in my head. He used to be a follower of the Ramakrishna Mission; we lost him in 2021. He’s in the forever philosophical grounds; discussing ideologies with Sri Ramakrishna & Swami Vivekananda!
Sri Ramakrishna Temple, as seen from the souvenir shop
Swami Vivekananda Mandir
Going ahead, I came to the Swami Vivekananda Mandir which was undergoing a renovation. It stands on the spot where Swamiji’s mortal remains were cremated.
Swami Vivekananda died at the age of 39. Interestingly, he’d prophesized that he’ll not live to be forty-years old!
Holy Mother’s Mandir
The Mandir is over the area where Sarada Devi’s mortal remains were cremated.
Swami Brahmananda Mandir
The Mandir was built on the place where Swami Brahmananda (a direct disciple of Sri Ramakrishna) was cremated.
Belur Math conducts relief work, rural uplift work, spiritual & cultural activities, and more.
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Sri Ramakrishna Mandir, as seen from the Swami Vivekananda Mandir side
Kava
Kava is the all-day diner at Fairfield by Marriott. I demolished three breakfasts, one lunch & one dinner here! It’s an elaborate vegetarian & nonvegetarian buffet spread.
You can easily find international selections, street food, Italian, Indian & Asian fares here. At every meal, I was totally spoilt for choice. For me, one of the highlights was always the live counter. I specially loved it when they put together chaat for dinner & prepared Wai Wai for breakfast.
The other highlight, & this goes without saying, was the range of confectioneries & desserts. The lunch buffet I’d on my final day, I found Brownie & Poha Kheer to be so tempting! (In the same meal, the Fish Begum Bahaar was finger-licking.)
The atmosphere is appealing. The staff is resourceful. Sunipa, one of the staff members, seeing that I was dining alone, made me feel comfortable. For all my three breakfasts, she specially made Cold Coffee for me. On coming to know that I was in Kolkata for sightseeing, she arranged a special Bengali dinner for me. This included delights such as Begun Bhaja, Jhuri Aloo Bhaja & Kosha Mangsho.
I recommend Kava; it’s certainly an ultimate culinary getaway!
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Vistara Lounge/ The Irish House
I’d a business class ticket which meant that the formalities at the airport took barely a few minutes. I made my way to the Vistara Lounge which is located within The Irish House.
I grabbed a corner table & read a book. The décor is a typical The Irish House one. Everything, apart from alcoholic beverages, are complimentary. I packed away some Chiri Bhaja & Dry Jhaal Moori, more out of boredom than hunger.
The Irish House doesn’t have an ensuite toilet. You’ve to step out & walk along the corridor to get to the common facility.
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Rating: 4 out of 5.
Vistara Business Class
As of today, Vistara is the best airlines in India. Its economy class itself is first-rate. Hence, I knew I was in for a bosting time in the business class. I got priority handling for my luggage.
My seat was a window seat on the right side of the aircraft. The Italian leather seat was very comfortable, with generous leg room. I crammed down a gourmet vegan meal.
The hospitality was outstanding. I hope I get to take more business class flights in the future!
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Thoroughly restful – that was my last day in Kolkata. Back with an itinerary soon!
Now that you’ve read about my Day Two in Kolkata, you can read a detailed account of my 3rd day.
What a generous breakfast spread at Kava, the Fairfield restaurant! It set me up for a walking & sightseeing day ahead. First up was the Howrah Bridge. My nemesis, the rain, had begun to fall again in a milder format; that emboldened me to walk the length of the Bridge & feel history exude from its every joint!
Apart from the Victoria Memorial, I’d been quite eager to see the Jorasanko Thakur Bari, the ancestral home of Rabindranath Tagore. My eagerness was fully satiated at this typical Bengali mansion of the older days with its striking green & red color, & the countless galleries holding invaluable information about the Nobel Laureate.
Some more family time followed with lunch with SD & her parents, my uncle & aunt. I wanted to visit the Science City but the rain had finally dampened my spirit. I wasn’t in a mood for more knowledge – gathering.
I made a brief halt at the Birla Mandir in Ballygunge. I was lucky to be there at the time of the evening aarti.
The rest of the evening was spent at Vertex, the lounge at Fairfield, listening to Pratham Kar, & then at Kava munching on a special Bengali dinner. Wraps on Day 3!
Howrah Bridge
The Howrah Bridge, also called Rabindra Setu, connects Howrah & Kolkata. I don’t think any bridge is as famous in India as this one is! And why should it not be? Apart from carrying 1L+ vehicles & 1.5L+ pedestrians on a daily basis, it also weathers the Bay of Bengal region storms. And that’s not a small feat!
Trivia – The steel to be used for the construction of the Howrah Bridge had to be imported from the United Kingdom but because of World War II breaking out, UK’s steel was diverted there.
Then, Tata Steel stepped in, developed the steel quality needed, & ensured the supply happened on time! Tatas, never letting the nation down!
I crossed the Howrah Bridge first in the cab & went till the Howrah Station. The Station too looked quite spectacular with its red facade. We returned to the Bridge but this time, I decided to get down & walk.
Howrah Station
We’d crossed about 1/4th of the Howrah Bridge when I got down. But there was no provision for me to enter the pedestrian path from the vehicular road. So, I walked back towards the end of the Bridge, crossed over to the pedestrian side & then began walking, enjoying this cantilever bridge as well as the Hooghly flowing below me.
So many, many people were walking on the Howrah Bridge. My cabbie had told me that the footfall was less that day because of it being a Sunday. I can’t even! I seemed to be the only one without anywhere to go!
All the while, old Hindi music kept popping into my head.
Traversing the Howrah Bridge
I do have to admit though that the pedestrian path was a little dirty. It may have been due to the rain.
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Rating: 4.5 out of 5.
Jorasanko Thakur Bari
Isn’t the name itself so romantic & evokes a sense of nostalgia? Sigh! Jorasanko Thakur Bari is the ancestral house of the Tagore family. It was here that Rabindranath Tagore was born, lived & died.
Jorasanko Thakur Bari is a priceless heritage remnant. It’s constructed in the typical Bengali style. I fell in love with the bright green & red facade the moment I saw it! The Museum within, commemorating the life of Rabindranath Tagore, is called the Rabindra Bharati Museum.
Apart from the entry ticket (INR 10), there is an INR 50 ticket to use mobile cameras within the premises but do note – photography inside the Rabindra Bharati Museum is prohibited.
The Museum comprises galleries related to Rabindranath Tagore & to the Tagore family. In the galleries related to Tagore, you’ll find his possessions, photographs, sequence of events leading to his illness & last days, his relations with countries like China, Hungary, Japan & the USA.
In the galleries related to the Tagore family, you’ll find family ancestry & photographs, Bengal School paintings, & Tagore house portraits. You can do justice to the Rabindra Bharati Museum only if you’re ready to invest at least three hours.
I love history & the Museum made me more aware of the nationalist movement in Bengal. I’d to tear myself away only when I began to feel a little faint & remembered that I’d to join my relatives for lunch!
As you tour the Museum, there are security guards who guide you on the right path & ensure there’s no noise/ unruliness. My only peeve here was that a couple of galleries had captions only in Bengali, making it difficult for me to understand.
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Rating: 4.5 out of 5.
Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick
I visited two outlets of Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick to buy the famous Bengali sweets. The Ballygunge outlet was quite large & had a sitting section on the first floor. It was clean & well-organized. I can say the same about the Mishti Hub outlet.
I bought Sandesh & Baked Rasgulla. Sandesh was tempting but the Baked Rasgulla was finger-licking! I now know what to ask for myself if someone goes to KOL!!
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Sharee Kuthi
My cabbie recommended seeing Sharee Kuthi if I was interested in buying saris. How can I say no to saris? So off I went to this store in Ballygunge to hunt for graceful tant saris.
Tant saris originated from the eastern side of undivided Bengal. During the Mughal rule, they flourished in their Jamdani & Muslin avtars. Sharee Kuthi has been manufacturing & selling Tant sarees since the late 1970s.
The shop was mid-sized but every conceivable kind of sari could be found there. I was only looking for tant; so, the friendly salesman displayed many beautiful saris for me.
I’m a quick shopper; I chose my purchases in a matter of minutes but I must admit that the temptation to buy more was there, owing to the wide & glorious variety available.
The salesman was a little pushy but if there’s one thing I’ve learnt from N, it’s to brush off pesky salespeople!
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Rating: 4.5 out of 5.
Birla Mandir
This was an unscheduled halt. I’d asked Alam bhai if there was anything on the way to the hotel that I could see. Coincidentally, we were right in front of the Birla Mandir then.
An Evening at the Birla Mandir
I was also fortunate to visit at the time of the evening aarti. The Birla Mandir was opened to the public in 1996. It’s built in a contemporary style & has three impressive shikhars.
Shlokas & pictorial depictions from the Bhagavad Gita are engraved on the marble walls. I could imagine sitting & contemplating in its courtyard. All the idols inside – Radha Krishna, Shiv, Durga, Shakti, Hanuman, Ganesh, Dashavtars – are bewitching!
I was immensely contented with being able to participate in the aarti. Serendipity!
Note – Photography is prohibited inside. Cell phones have to be switched off. The shoe counter is located at the bottom of the stairs. The Birla Mandir was the only place in Kolkata where wearing a mask was mandatory.
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Vertex – The Liquid Restaurant
I like the term ‘liquid restaurant’. It sounds so much better than ‘restobar’! It was my last night in KOL & I wanted to unwind. Vertex has both indoor & outdoor seating. The outdoor seating, of course, has a handsome view of the Biswa Bangla Gate.
I chose to sit indoors, thanks to the rain. The lighting was dim – quite a club kind of ambience. I caught a corner table at Vertex. Vertex has quite a range of beers, cocktails & wines.
I got myself a Paan Sour & sat back to enjoy my drink & the live music. The Paan Sour was a heady mix of Beefeater, gulkand, rose syrup, & freshly squeezed lime juice. To me, it tasted a lot like Paan Pasand, the candy I used to eat in my childhood. Yum!
Vertex – The Liquid Restaurant
Performing that night was Pratham Kar. He sang a medley of Bollywood songs & his energy was infectious! I spoke to him & came to know that he’s a software engineer by profession but sings as a side hustle.
He took down my requests & ensured he ended the night with my favorites! He’d built such an ambience at Vetex that a few of us were on our feet & grooving to his music. More power to you Pratham!
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Pratham Kar Live
Rating for Pratham Kar – 10 stars!
Exhausting but thoroughly soothing – that was my Day 3. Back with Day 4 soon!
Now that you’ve read about my Day One in Kolkata, you can read a detailed account of my 2nd day.
I’m not a fan of gyms but as I’m used to morning walks, I end up visiting hotel gyms to use the treadmill. And that’s what I did in KOL too. all would have been well had I not been subjected to the sight of male guests taking to the swimming pool in their underwear, rather than in trunks! Ugh!!
Getting the adrenaline going!
A tasty breakfast at Kava, however, put the bad sight behind me. And soon after that, I was ready for an excursion to cultural institutions. I headed first to the Saint Paul’s Cathedral (~45 minutes).
As I admired the stained-glass windows & the memorial reliefs, it began to rain. The initial idea was for me to walk down to the Victoria Memorial but I waited for 30 minutes for the rain to cease & it didn’t. So, I made my way in the drizzle to the Victoria Memorial (10 minutes’ walk).
Irrepressible Subhas, an exhibition on Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose was ongoing on the ground floor while on the first floor of the Memorial was the Biplobi Bharat Gallery. Those who know me know that I read every single exhibit but the wealth of information here overwhelmed even someone like me.
The Victoria Memorial was crowded beyond imagination. So, I was glad to step out into the fresh air after a while. My legs were aching by now & I desperately wanted to sit down.
Kolkata was my one saudade, the other being Flurys (~15 minutes). I don’t even remember since when I’ve wanted to visit this iconic café. My wish got fulfilled on this excursion.
I wanted to visit the South Park Cemetery as I’d read articles about the gorgeous mausoleums & tombstones but they now prohibit casual visitors.
Thoughts kept churning in my head as I walked later on the James Prinsep Ghat (20 minutes), a promenade on the river Ganges.
With my heart so full, I needed to loosen up & Soul – The Sky Lounge (~25 minutes) in the Park Street Area provided the perfect spot for this. As the dusk sky turned pink, I reminded myself that maybe we can be both – fun-loving & selfless, & that not all of us can be Mother Teresa, but can try to be good human beings!
Back to Fairfield (~1 hour) & wraps on Day 2!
Saint Paul’s Cathedral
Saint Paul’s Cathedral is an Anglican Church & was the first of its kind within the erstwhile British territory, outside of Great Britain. It was built when a need for a bigger cathedral was felt, courtesy the growing European community in Kolkata.
Rain rain go away…
The cathedral was damaged twice in earthquakes. The steeple we see today is the renovated one after the second earthquake. Lighter bricks were used to build the Cathedral but these bricks also could withstand extreme temperatures & natural disasters.
After paying an entry fee of INR 10, I walked down to the white facade which looked absolutely magnificent. The moment I laid my eyes on the tall structure, my jaw dropped at its surreal appearance.
The interior has a high ceiling, carved pews, frescoes & reliefs. A number of the memorial reliefs were dedicated to soldiers & officers of the British Army who had fallen in the two World Wars & other battles.
Not-so-little P wants to play!
Seeing the chiselling of marble done so finely was a treat to my eyes. I wish I could have clicked a few pictures but photography was prohibited inside.
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Victoria Memorial
For the Victoria Memorial, two kinds of tickets are available – one for the gardens (INR 10) & one for the gardens + museum (INR 30). With the wispy rain on my face, I bought the latter ticket & proceeded inside.
The pathway was flanked by gardens on both sides. Walking down, I first came to a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. It depicted the Queen in her later years sitting on a throne.
Lord Curzon wanted the Queen’s memorial to be stately with beautiful gardens. What’s interesting is that the building fund came from Indian princes and native states! The Victoria Memorial was opened to the public in 1921.
The Victoria Memorial Gardens
The Victoria Memorial is an iconic structure & is synonymous with Kolkata! I’d been desirous to see the Memorial for donkey’s years now. So, even the rain couldn’t dampen my excitement.
The Victoria Memorial is, in one word, breath-taking. I got a chance to drive around it at night & it looked even more marvelous with its illumination. It’s constructed with white Makrana Marble that was brought from Rajasthan.
Irrepressible Subhas
This ongoing multimedia exhibition celebrates Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose’s 125th birth anniversary. I walked around absorbing Netaji’s life stories, ideals & beliefs. Instead of a linear narrative, the exhibition was presented as a set of FAQs made the viewer naturally curious to know the answer to the question posed.
As I soaked up all the information, many new to me, I pondered how we’d not been taught as much about this important facet of the Indian freedom struggle as it warranted.
My favorite was the map depicting Netaji’s ‘great escape’ – travel by various means from Kolkata to Berlin (7,000+ KMS), evading the British authorities.
Royal Gallery
This gallery on the ground floor consisted of oil paintings from the British Raj. A painting depicting the Prince of Wales’ entry in Jaipur by Vassilli Verestchagin was impressive.
The other set of paintings I liked were by the Daniell duo; they traveled across India & documented what they saw in their paintings.
Entrance Hall Gallery
Here, paintings & photographs showing the stages of the building of Victoria Memorial were displayed.
Biplobi Bharat Gallery
As I began to exit the Victoria Memorial building, I realized there were people on the first floor too on what looked to be a balcony. I took directions from the security guard & headed upstairs. There the Biplobi Bharat exhibition was on display.
Prime Minister Narendra Modi had inaugurated this Gallery on Shaheed Diwas (23 March 2022). It contains aspects of the Indian freedom struggle that haven’t been given their due importance in the mainstream narrative (Revolutionaries & Armed Resistance).
This, to me, was an eyeopener because while I knew about a few of the revolutionaries, there were so many more I’d not heard of. I took my time reading through contribution of Naval Mutiny, formation of significant associations etc.
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Flurys
My initial plan was to have lunch at Peter Cat & then come to Flurys for a dessert but when I found that the former had a 45 minutes’ waiting, I marched straight into the latter the next door.
Flurys on Park Street – What a landmark!
Best decision! Like I’ve said earlier, I don’t even know since when I’ve wanted to visit Flurys. It’s the distinction of introducing Swiss & other international delicacies to Kolkata.
Over decades, Flurys has become a part of Kolkata culture. The Park Street outlet is a landmark. And this is where I was now sitting. I’d a Cola Float (tasty), a Summer Crunch Salad & a Rum Ball (OK).
The Summer Crunch Salad had walnut & cheese & vegetables & apple, drizzled with vinaigrette. Certainly delish!
Delish Salad!
My servers were absolutely great, giving me just the right amount of attention & a whole lot of courtesy. The soothing pink décor made for an extremely lively ambience. The heritage Kolkata pictures on one of the walls was worth stopping & looking at.
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
The Mother House of The Missionaries of Charity
This was the house where Mother Teresa lived & served, and where today she’s entombed. Entry is free. I was shown to Mother’s tomb where I sat awhile & brooded over her life.
We read a lot of conflicting messages today but in my childhood, all I knew about Mother Teresa was that she was a pure, selfless soul who served the poor & destitute community till her last breath.
The entire Mother House & specially the tomb room were so peaceful that I could almost hear my own heartbeat. Next to the tomb room was a small museum named ‘Mother Teresa’s Life, Spirit and Message’.
Here I saw & read through displays of Mother Teresa’s enamel dinner-bowl, crucifix, handwritten letters etc. On reading that she’d left her home to join a convent at 12 years of age, I was again struck by how clear some chosen ones are on this earth w.r.t. their calling!
I then climbed the stairs to view the Mother’s Room, i.e., the room Mother Teresa occupied. It’s been preserved the way it was when she was alive. But its small size left me amazed.
Please note that photographs are allowed only at Mother Teresa’s tomb and of her statue.
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
James Prinsep Ghat
As if I’d not already walked enough for the day, I decided to tire my legs some more! I stood in front of the James Prinsep Memorial with the Vidyasagar Setu as its backdrop. The sky was showing its evening colors now. The entire effect was magical.
James Prinsep was the Assistant Assay Master in Calcutta Mint & later the Assay Master in Banaras Mint. He pioneered the idea of building a tunnel to drain swamps. He introduced uniform coinage. He decoded the Brahmi script.
He died young & in his memory was built the James Prinsep Memorial. The monument is in the Palladian style – six sets of Ionian columns holding a 40’ white roof. I believe due to increasing graffiti on the walls, the administration had now cordoned off entry inside the Memorial.
Countless number of visitors were sitting in the Memorial lawn & even more were visiting the riverside. So, I did too!
To get to the Ghat, I first crossed railway tracks of a railway station called Prinsep Ghat Station. A train was waiting for its last passengers to embark & while I crossed the tracks, a shiver of thrill ran down my spine.
On the other side, a few steps further, stone steps led to the Ganges. This is where you can engage a boatman for a river cruise. Further ahead, walking along the Ghat, I figured it was a popular place to meet friends & chat over bhelpuris. The innumerable stalls ensure no taste bud goes unfulfilled.
Gwalior Monument
While walking, I came across a cenotaph named Gwalior Monument. Lord Ellenborough got this memorial erected in the memory of the British Army soldiers who died quelling the resistance in Madhya Pradesh.
The Gwalior Monument was an unassuming structure & would have gone unnoticed, if not for my keen sense of sniffing out heritage!
I watched the Ganges flow. Little boats bobbed on it. The mother river cleansed my heart of doubts, if not permanently, then at least momentarily. I’d wanted to watch the sunset but there was still an hour to go + it’d begun to drizzle.
James Prinsep Ghat is a splendid place to evoke – nostalgia, old world charm, life’s calling, spirituality…
No entry fees.
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Rating: 5 out of 5.
Soul – The Sky Lounge
By now, I was drained. I just wanted a meal & a bed. With one last effort, I made my way to Soul in the Park Street area. It’s a rooftop lounge with both covered & open – air seating. The weather was beautiful; thus, I chose open – air.
The ambience was first-rate. The sky at dusk was nothing short of gorgeous, showing first its pink hues, then purple, then blue & finally fading to black. I sat enraptured at the sky for quite a few minutes.
I was soul-ed!
The service was great. The manager lady, realizing I was dining solo, chatted up with me & made me feel at home. I’d a Gandharaj & Basil Mojito which wasn’t just delicious but also fitted well with the foot tapping music.
Dinner was Chicken Chelo Kebab which was succulent but too large a portion for one person. So off it went in the doggy bag!
Enervating but thoroughly cheering – that was my Day 2. Back with Day 3 soon!
Now that I’ve summarized my Kolkata excursion (you can read that here), I’ll write a more detailed account of my days there. The first day, of course, was partly about getting to the city of not just joy, but diversity too.
A first-rate weather in Delhi NCR calmed my resfeber (noun. Swedish. The tangled feelings of fear & excitement before a journey.). The blue sky I saw from my IndiGo flight gave me hope that my expedition would go well.
The KOL airport has undergone a transformation since I was last here (2011). It’s streamlined now but still retains its compact nature; it took me barely 15 minutes from disembarking from the plane to exiting the airport.
I’d booked a Bharat Taxi; my cabbie, Fakhre Alam, promptly picked me up. Over the next four days, Alam bhai gave me a fine download of Kolkata & how it changed visibly over the last 20 years or so.
My first stop was my hotel, Fairfield by Marriott, to check in. I thank the hotel for assigning me a room with a fantastic view – from my panoramic window, I could look at the Biswa Bangla Gate, a futuristic structure; a curved metro line; & the skyline of Newtown.
It was early for lunch but I also wanted to grab a nap before heading out in the evening. So, I made my way to Chowman, an Asian restaurant owned by Debaditya Chaudhury, the founding member of a popular Bengali Rock Band, ‘Lakkhichhara’.
As I packed away on Chili Teriyaki Potato & Chowman Special Noodles (both of which were tasty), my tryst with the KOL rains began.
Luckily, when it was time to step out in the evening, the rain had ceased. I was on my way to Kaee Contemporary, an art gallery owned by Ms. Ambica Beri, whose Art Ichol I’d visited in Maihar in January. (Read my verse dedicated to Maihar here.)
It was the opening night of the exhibition, When the Other Stares Back. While I’ll write about it in detail below, let me just use one compound word to summarize it: thought – provoking!
My cousin, SD, picked me from Kaee Contemporary & we drove to Polo Floatel for dinner. At The Bridge, overlooking the river Ganges, we noshed at copious amounts of kebabs & biryani, gossiped about the past & the present, and had a fantastic time.
An adventurous Uber ride (where the driver told me he’s not the driver :D) brought me back to Fairfield & I called it wraps on Day 1.
Night View from my Room
Kaee Contemporary
Ever since I heard the name of the art gallery, I was curious to know what Kaee meant. It didn’t strike me that it referred to the Hindi word for moss. But, on visiting, my doubt was dispelled.
Like moss, Kaee Contemporary is perceptive to the changes within the environment. It elucidates Kolkata’s contemporary art ecosystem. The gallery nurtures a community of patrons, practitioners & public.
TBH, Kaee wasn’t part of my original sightseeing plans but when I came to know it was the opening night for a new exhibition the same day that I landed, I knew I’d to go. I’m glad I did!
‘When The Other Stares Back’ is an exhibition that will make you think about the dystopia we’re moving towards. It’ll move you with its dejection & it’ll frighten you with its atrocity. “What ARE we doing to our world?” is a question you’ll be forced to ask.
The very first set of art by Mr. Jagannath Panda caught my eye with its big & bright brocade birds (alliteration unintended!). The work The Custodian of Untold Truth (I) held my gaze for long. The multicolored rooster standing on an upturned Lamborghini with migrants on the move in the background (amongst other things) spoke ominously of a time when wealth will come crashing down when those whose labor helps in wealth creation will turn their backs on it.
Amongst Mr. Gigi Scaria’s work, Wrapped made me ponder about its significance for a while. It took me a few minutes to realize that this is what we’d been doing to our mountains – blasting them, cutting them, rounding them up, fencing them in & so on. We don’t even realize that in the end, it’s the mountains that will survive & not us.
Ms. Jayashree Chakravarthy’s Twigs to Creepers made me gasp. Her use of cotton, jute, paper, tea stain & the like make this piece of art so real & yet so surreal at the same time.
Ms. Radhika Agarwala’s Primordial Ooze series made me think, for a moment, that I was looking at fossils in amber. It reminded me of the multiple times I’d felt that nature will find a way, if left alone.
Ms. Sonia Mehra Chawla’s Vital to Life brought the microscopic world of plankton to the fore.
Lastly, Ms. Suhasini Kejriwal’s sepia – tinted artwork gave forth a new dimension to our everyday streets.
While many of the art works left me brooding, let me add that the opening night was also a lot of fun. For one, it gave me a chance to meet Ambica ma’am again as well as other interesting art practitioners.
The exhibition is on till 2022 September end. I’ll urge Kolkata residents to give a dekko.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
The Bridge
The Bridge is the casual dining restaurant at the Polo Floatel. Walking the plank to enter the ship – themed hotel, I was immediately taken in by how vibrant the decor was.
Vibrant, ship – themed Polo Floatel
I’d expected the hotel/ restaurant to bob & was disappointed when it didn’t. We chose to sit inside as the weather was pretty airless. Soon we were munching on a Non-veg Kebab Platter in which all the types were succulent. An Assam Tea Spritzer performed the role of the perfect accompaniment.
Entrée was a Kolkata Chicken Biryani. What makes a Kolkata Biryani different is the inclusion of potatoes apart from the main meat.
We called it a night with a set of pictures on the Sky Deck. The soft sound of the river in front of us & the shimmering lights of the Howrah Bridge made for a fitting end.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
Chowman
A small eatery but serving pretty scrumptious Asian cuisine – who dislikes that? My initial thought was to just eat an appetizer but when my Chili Teriyaki Potato turned out to be spicy, I ordered myself a Chowman Special Noodles. This was a mixed meat noodles & was pungent.
The decor had a black & red color scheme while the centerpiece was a Buddha statue, giving the place a soothing ambience.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rating: 5 out of 5.
Bharat Taxi
I’m enraptured I booked Bharat Taxi. Conveyance was my biggest apprehension as I dislike the uncertainty of app-based cabs. Bharat Taxi turned out to be the best decision of my Kolkata trip.
Coordinating with them was easy. Ms. Noori, my coordinator, understood my requirements well & remained in touch throughout my journey to ensure a hassle-free travel.
Mr. Fakhre Alam, my driver, was amiable, flexible & knew Kolkata well. Being a solo women traveler, I felt comfortable traveling with him.
No wonder Bharat Taxi is a reputed name in this service.
Definition: A nostalgic longing to be near something/ someone who is distant
The Howrah Bridge in the distance, putting up a show with its lights!
Calcutta, or Kolkata, has always held a place in my heart. I’d traveled to KOL a few times but always for work or when passing by. But, in my heart of hearts, I was always desirous to holiday in the City of Joy to grasp what my longing had been for.
Yes, KOL had been my Saudade.
So, when it was time for me to make a solo expedition, I chose KOL, in spite of questioning looks from family & the disheartening weather forecasts. Thus, here I’m, P, sharing my story of traveling to Calcutta, the business hub of Eastern India.
See the color color color of the sky!
(A detailed account of each day will follow in subsequent blog posts.)
Friday, 22 July 2022 – NCR to Kolkata
A first-class blue sky from my IndiGo flight, a transformed Kolkata airport & a friendly Bharat Taxi cabbie made up the first half of my Day 1. A room with a fantastic view at Fairfield by Marriott & a Chinese meal at Chowman prepped me for a peaceful slumber.
Jagannath Panda’s art for When The Other Stares Back
Evening was all about art at the Kaee Contemporary. It was the opening night for a new exhibition called When The Other Stares Back. In one word, thought – provoking! Noshing on kebabs & biryani followed at The Bridge, Polo Floatel with my cousin SD.
Saturday, 23 July 2022 – Central Kolkata Sightseeing
The day my tryst with rain began. All was sunny till I entered the Saint Paul’s Cathedral. As I sat admiring the stained-glass windows & the memorial engravings, at some point of time, it started raining.
Bougainvilleas adding beauty to an already magnificent structure!
I waited for 30 minutes for the rain to cease but when it didn’t, I made my way in the drizzle to the Victoria Memorial. Irrepressible Subhas, an exhibition on Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose was ongoing on the ground floor while on the first floor of the Memorial was the Biplobi Bharat Gallery.
Those who know me know that I read every single exhibit but the wealth of information here overwhelmed even someone like me. (Still raining when I stepped out of the Victoria Memorial!)
Kolkata was my one saudade, the other being Flurys. I don’t even remember since when I’ve wanted to visit this iconic café. My wish got fulfilled on this excursion. (& finally, the rain ceased!)
Cola Float at Flurys
Lunch was followed by a solemn, humbling drive to The Mother House of The Missionaries of Charity. How does a person be so selfless? Similar thoughts kept churning in my head as walked later on the Princep Ghat, a promenade on the river Ganges.
With my heart so full, I needed to loosen up & Soul – The Sky Lounge in the Park Street Area provided the perfect spot for this. As the dusk sky turned pink, I reminded myself that maybe we can be both – fun-loving & selfless, & that not all of us can be Mother Teresa, but can try to be good human beings!
Sunday, 24 July 2022 – North Kolkata Sightseeing
Keep walking… On the Howrah Bridge!
What a generous breakfast spread at Kava, the Fairfield restaurant! It set me up for a walking & sightseeing day ahead. First up was the Howrah Bridge. My nemesis, the rain, had begun to fall again in a milder format; that emboldened me to walk the length of the Bridge & feel history exude from its every joint!
Apart from the Victoria Memorial, I’d been quite eager to see the Jorasanko Thakur Bari, the ancestral home of Rabindranath Tagore. My eagerness was fully satiated at this typical Bengali mansion of the older days with its striking green & red colour, & the countless galleries holding invaluable information about the Nobel Laureate.
Some more family time followed with lunch with SD & her parents, my uncle & aunt. I wanted to visit the Science City but the rain had finally dampened my spirit. I wasn’t in a mood for more knowledge – gathering.
Playing catch-up!
I made a brief halt at the Birla Mandir in Ballygunge. I was lucky to be there at the time of the evening aarti.
The rest of the evening was spent at Vertex, the lounge at Fairfield, listening to Pratham Kar, & then at Kava munching on a special Bengali dinner.
Monday, 25 July 2022 – Wrapping Up On A Divine Note
A throng of devotees against a backdrop of the Dakshineswar Mandir
The Goddesses & Swamis wanted me to visit their abodes! The rain took a break & I made a voyage to the Dakshineswar Kali Mandir, a Hindu navratna temple. From there, Alam bhai drove me to the Belur Math, the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math & Ramakrishna Mission.
After the hustle bustle of Dakshineswar Mandir, Belur was an oasis of calm! As soon as I stepped out of the Math & sat in the cab, it began to rain again! Ha ha! I’d planned to visit the Eco Park but had to drop that.
Instead, I headed back to the hotel, packed, made short work of the lunch buffet & checked out. On the way to the airport, I stopped at Mishti Hub to buy Sandesh & Baked Rasgulla. Lounging at the Vistara lounge & then being pampered in the business class brought to an end a fabulous trip!
Why have I made such a brief blog post? 😀 Because I intend to write detailed posts for each of these days. This blog post was to give an overview of how a long weekend KOL trip can be planned.
Stay tuned for more posts on Kolkata, once the premier centre of Indian culture!
Let's Go Sightseeing! 