“To welcome her the Spring breath’s forth Elysian sweets; March strews the Earth With violets and posies.”

— Edmund Waller

March is that time of the year when the skies become clear, the days warm and the flowers in bloom. And yet, the merciless heat of the North Indian plains is at least a month away. We are winter lovers. We wanted to keep a slice of the frost for a little while more. This made us think of Himachal Pradesh over a 2021 long weekend.

Shimla & near-about were done but then we came across a name we’d not heard before – Renuka ji.

Renuka Ji

Renuka ji is a village in the Sirmour district of Himachal Pradesh. Its nearest town is Sirmour (22 kms). Nahan is 45 kms away while Chandigarh is 134 kms.

As per folklore, Renuka ji was the devoted wife of sage Jamadagini and the mother of Parshuram, a warrior-sage and one of the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu. One day, King Sahasarjuna arrived at their hermitage, attempting to seize control. He murdered Jamadagini. To avoid being carried away by him as a trophy, Renuka ji jumped into a nearby lake and prayed to become one with the waters.

Renuka Lake was thus formed, preserving the essence of Renuka ji’s devotion and selflessness. Temples sprang up around it dedicated to both her and to Bhagvaan Parshuram. Devotees visit to seek her blessings, believing that her presence continues to protect and nurture them. During the annual Renuka ji Fair, devotees gather to celebrate the love between a mother and her son.

We had also chanced upon a magnificent, dog friendly accommodation, Writer’s Hill. So, why not?

Day One

We took the road to Renuka ji. We halted at the Bollywood Dhaba in Rai for tea and a bio-break. It is right on the highway but on the opposite side. It has a few parking slots available. There are a few food kiosks outside. Every time we’ve halted here, Fluffy has relished a sugar-free vanilla ice-cream. Also, toilets are at the adjacent Indian Oil Fueling Station.

We then continued only to halt at Zhilmil Dhaba in Karnal for lunch. This is one of the places that allows us to sit in their non – airconditioned section with Fluffy. We had a hearty lunch of Aloo Pyaaz Paratha, a spicy Daal Tadka, and Gobhi Paratha. Afterward, we enjoyed Kulhad Chai and Masala Chaap with a tasty gravy.

We also had Mixed Paratha and Tandoori Roti. (What is a road trip without parathas!)

We then continued to Renuka ji. It was evening by the time we reached Writer’s Hill. This was FLUFF’S first trip to the mountains. She was positively woozy from the circuitous route. She whined and placed her paw on the driver’s arm to halt the car. But, to her credit, she neither pooped nor puked. As soon as she got down, at the Hill parking, her stomach let loose!

Fluffy has come a long way since then. She is now a pro of the mountains. Anyway, returning to Writer’s Hill, there are 40 stairs from the parking to the cottages. With the cold and marginally thin mountain air, we huffed and puffed our way up. The owner, Mr. Munish Pal had already stationed his staff members to help us with our luggage.

There was not much to do once the Sun had set. But, but, but, it was N’s birthday. I’d already spoken to Mr. Pal who had graciously arranged a surprise celebration for us. N, as usual, was awkward with all the attention he received. Nevertheless, we did have a good time amidst the balloons in the gazebo. We cut the cake and sang the birthday song to embarrass N a little more.

We had not expected the chill to hit us. After all, Renuka ji is not at a high altitude. It’s just 2,205 feet. But it was indeed cold.

Staying at a homestay always gives rise to many conversations! Mr. Pal gave us company in the evening. We chatted away until it was dinnertime. We always love a friendly conversation on our travels. We were pleased as punch to have chosen the Writer’s Hill for our stay!

Day Two

The cold did not go away in the morning but became bearable. We stepped out of our warm cottages gingerly. The garden was full of colorful birds. We basked in the Sun while cupping our hands around cups of steaming tea. As the morning progressed, we figured the day was going to be absolutely gorgeous.

There was no way we let go of the warm mountain Sun. So, Mr Pal very kindly arranged for breakfast to be served in the garden itself. After that, we chose to visit the holy temples and lakes of Renuka ji. Our first stop was the Parshuram Taal.

Parshuram Taal

The Parshuram Taal is a serene lake, both naturally beautiful and religiously significant. Being linked to Bhagvaan Parshuram makes it a place of spiritual reverence for believers. It is a tourist attraction too, showcasing the surrounding peaceful environment. We parked our car and strolled around the calm lake.

The Parshuram Taal is separated from the main Renuka ji Lake by a small strip of land. One side of it has a cluster of temples. The other side forms the boundary to the Renuka ji Wildlife Sanctuary. As we walked around the lake, we were lucky to see a barking deer (formally called Indian Muntjac). It grazed away at the grass, oblivious to us.

Even FLUFF’S presence did not seem to deter the barking deer!

We sat on the steps of the Parshuram Taal for a few minutes. Then, we realized it was full of fish. The crowd of catfish (I think) was clearly used to receiving food from visitors. As soon as we sat down, they scrambled around us. Their surface activity made the water murky. Fluffy sat on the stairs too, fascinated with the fishes (her first experience)!

The path around the Parshuram Taal was paved. We stopped many times to click pictures. We spotted a blue sky & lots of greenery! The whole point of mountains is you do nothing; just surrender yourself to nature…

Renuka Ji Temple Complex

We now headed to the Renuka Ji Temple Complex. It consists of Mata Renuka Ji Temple, Dashaavtaar Temple, Gayatri Temple, and Shiva Temple. There is also a holy stone on which Bhagvaan Parshuram is said to have performed penance. There is a small shrine dedicated to Ma Him Saraswati. Ancient sculptures are strewn all over the complex.

All the temples at the Renuka Ji Temple complex are quite colorful and pretty. The complex itself was clean and surrounded by a maintained garden. It was not crowded either. Thus, for those inclined so, it can be a good spot to meditate. This will, of course, differ during the Renuka Ji Fair. Yes, this is where the Fair is held.

According to religious belief, Parshuram is still alive and doing penance. The Renuka Ji Fair is held when He comes to visits His mother.

Shri Mata Renuka Ji Temple

Shri Mata Renuka Ji Temple, as the name suggests, is dedicated to Mata Renuka Ji, Bhagvaan Parshuram’s mother. It is believed to be built by an army of Gurkha soldiers. It is a small one but is quite important to followers of Parshuram and to locals. It is open all days of the week. Darshan timings are from 6 AM to 8 PM.

Bhagvaan Parshuram Temple

The Bhagvaan Parshuram Temple is an extremely vibrant yellow and red in color, bringing an instant cheerfulness. Its shikhar is emblazoned with a couple of battle axes, signifying Parshuram.

Dashaavtaar Temple

Again, as the name suggests, the Dashaavtaar Temple is dedicated to the 10 avatars of Bhagvaan Vishnu. This is worth seeing. All the avatars are clothed in bright colors with their names labeled below the idols.

Sacred Stone

This is the sacred part of that rock on which Bhagvaan Parshuram sat and meditated for thousands of years. This rock used to be huge.

Shri Renuka Ji Wetlands

We then made our way to the Shri Renuka Ji Wetlands. It comprises the Renuka Wildlife Sanctuary and the Renuka Lake. The lake is surrounded by two hills called Dhar and Jammu.

Renuka Wildlife Sanctuary

The Renuka Wildlife Sanctuary has ecological, fauna, floral, geomorphologic, natural and zoological importance. The Renuka reserve forest forms a part of it. Surrounded by hills in all the directions, it is embanked by concrete walls having a pavement all along its boundary. It maintains the biodiversity of this fragile ecosystem.

The wildlife at the Renuka Wildlife Sanctuary includes animals like leopards, barking deer, sambar deer, langur, and black bear. We saw all of them. It was an unforgettable experience for us to witness its stunning natural beauty, diverse wildlife, and cultural significance. Little had we known before coming here that we would be treated to this religious, scenic, serene and tranquil spot!

The Renuka Wildlife Sanctuary has a well-paved walking path for you to view the animals. When we visited, we availed the service of a battery – operated car that ferried us all across the sanctuary. I believe this service has been discontinued now. (Or, maybe it was a temporary service during COVID.) Also, it was a miracle that Fluffy was allowed to join us; wildlife zones strictly prohibit animals.

Renuka Lake

The Renuka Lake is the largest natural lake in Himachal Pradesh. It has been designated a Ramsar site. Also, it is believed to have the shape of a woman (an embodiment of Renuka Ji herself). It is surrounded by lush green forests supporting a variety of animal and bird life. It is estimated to be home to 400+ species of fauna.

As we had gone during the COVID era, boating was prohibited on the Renuka Lake. The undisturbed lake, I find it difficult to describe its natural beauty. It had to be seen to be believed! An image can somewhat show its magnificence.

After the tiring sightseeing, we needed to recharge our batteries and also to shop for something warm. We’d not carried any woolens; the evening promised to be as cold as the first one. So, we headed to the town of Dadahu. There, we didn’t just find excellent Kullu shawls. We also found a sweets shop where we demolished plates of jalebi & samosa and cups of hot chai.

In the evening, back at Writers’ Hill, we lazed around in the garden. We listened to Mr Pal narrate anecdotes about his homestay. The crisp spring air did us good.

Day Three

We get used to the cold, don’t we? By the third day, it was certainly more bearable. As the day before, birds gave us company as we feasted on our breakfast in the garden. Not wanting to lose out on such a beautiful weather, we decided to visit the Gurudwara Paonta Sahib Ji.

Gurudwara Paonta Sahib Ji

The word Paonta means ‘space for a foothold’. Guru Gobind Singh Ji decided to set up camp here. Folklore says his horse refused to move from this spot. Thus, the ‘foothold’. Guru ji had come to the Kingdom of Sirmour on the invitation of the king, Raja Medini Prakash. Raja Prakash wanted help from Guru ji against the threat posed by the King of Srinagar and Mughal soldiers.

The Gurudwara Paonta Sahib Ji is large and is on the banks of the River Yamuna. The Yamuna here works as a boundary between Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand. A museum displays pens and weapons used by Guru Gobind Singh Ji during his days here. It also has a donated palki (palanquin) made of pure gold.

Within the complex, there are two other gurudwaras too. The Gurudwara Sri Dastar Asthan Sahib is where Guru Gobind Singh ji would sit and tie his dastar (turban). It now hosts dastar – tying competitions. The Gurudwara Sri Kavi Darbar Asthan is where famed kavi (poet) darbars (court) were held.

Guru Gobind Singh ji was fond of literary pursuits and had filled his court with poets & writers. They complained about the noisy, roaring Yamuna to him. Folklore says he blessed the Yamuna to flow gently beside the Gurudwara Sri Kavi Darbar Asthan. Now, poetry events are organized on full moon nights.

We bowed our heads at the Gurudwara Paonta Sahib Ji and also at the Gurudwara Sri Darbar Asthan Sahib. We sat down for some time to listen to the ardas (prayer). We then headed to the terrace. From there, we watched the River Yamuna flow gracefully down from the hills to the plains. This was N & my second visit to Gurudwara Paonta Sahib Ji but the first one for my parents.

We proceeded to eat a simple lunch at the langar before deciding to head back up the mountains. Note that you have to cover your head at the Gurudwaras. Also note that Paonta Sahib is on the NCR – Sirmour route (one of the many). You can halt for a visit here during your onward journey. You can also do so on your return journey.

We realized this later with a result that we got stuck in Nahan traffic twice!

We made our way back up the hills with a stop at the Markandey Bridge for some refreshments. Then, before returning to Writer’s Hill, we drove off road to a rivulet. The sun was on the verge of setting, giving a dramatic effect to the sky and bringing the cold back. We filled our lungs with the crisp spring mountain air and called it a day.

Day Four

We woke up to see a bewildering number of birds up & about in the garden. The feathered creatures proved the saying ‘The early bird catches the worm’. We were lucky to spot Himalayan Bulbuls, Chestnut Bellied Rock Thrushes, Red-billed Blue-Magpies, White-crested Laughingthrushes, and Red Junglefowls.

All of them clamored to drink water or bathe in the little water bowls kept all around Writers’ Hill.

After an aloo paratha breakfast, we drove back to NCR, with Fluffy absolutely maxed out from the holiday.

Accommodation

Writers’ Hill had a charm. It was a set of cozy cottages based on a theme of books. Our stay here was pleasant. It was located away from the city; so, the environs were quiet and peaceful. The green lawn outside was a perfect spot for tea while sunbathing. If you like bird watching, you can keep an eye out in the garden; we saw many little feathered creatures.

Our cottages were named My Name Is Red and No Orchids For Miss Blandish! The former is a novel by Orhan Pamuk; the second is by James Hadley Chase. The cottage interiors were minimalistic. Our room was comfortable with enough blankets & a heater. The bathrooms were BIG.

The Hill was a homestay in the truest sense. It is Mr. Pal’s home; he has opened it to strangers. Over our two days, he made us feel at home. There was also a resident Bhutia dog there. Surprisingly, the dog was gentle with Fluffy. Fluffy was just six months’ old at that time.

Our meals were at Writers’ Hill itself. We ate till we exploded. Such an assortment of dishes – Mixed Vegetables, Omelet, Chicken Curry, Aloo Sabzi, Daal, Aloo Paratha… phew! Everything was FINGER-LICKING!

The Hill was our place! But we understand the problem those first stairs can cause for the elderly. They can also affect those who need mobility assistance.

Note – The Hill is a part of ama Stays & Trails now.

Tips For Visiting

1. Noida to Renuka ji is 309 KMS & took us ~seven hours with stopovers.
2. Renuka ji is barely 45 KMS from Nahan yet has a completely different character. Instead of staying in the bustling Nahan town, go here.
3. If you like hiking/ walking & birdwatching, then Renuka ji is the place for you.
4. For the winter chill, go from October to March. During the rest of the year, the weather varies from pleasant to warm.
5. Renuka ji can be reached via – (a) Chandigarh airport; (b) Ambala/ Chandigarh Railway Stations; (c) Nahan bus stand
6. Do not feed the wild animals & birds.